Clutch Pressure Plate/Springs Install?

[AXE]

I installed my Speedymoto Kurki pressure plate and springs/retainers tonight along with my MPL clutch cover. I noticed that my shifting now seems to be a lot more notchy, although I haven't road tested it yet. It seems to catch a little and lunge into gear somewhat, at least when I have it on my stand.

I got the springs/retainers installed and torqued them to 5 Nm like they suggested. When I went to pull the old pressure plate off, I pulled the long rod out about 3-4" to remove the end cap . The Speedymoto plate has a bearing and does not require that end cap like the stocker and I had to pull the rod out some to get it off (probably could have gotten it off with the rod pulled out just 2"). Could pulling that rod out that far cause any problems? Do I need to pull the clutch to get it seated properly again?

Thanks!

[Buckelew]

are the hub and cover aligned correctly? Notch in hub, arrow in pressure plate (at least in stocker). you could pull the clutch slave cylinder to make sure the other end of the rod is seated correctly.

One end of the rod sits in the pressure plate bearing, the other in the clutch slave cylinder pocket.

[Brainfry]

Originally Posted by AXE

I installed my Speedymoto Kurki pressure plate and springs/retainers tonight along with my MPL clutch cover. I noticed that my shifting now seems to be a lot more notchy, although I haven't road tested it yet. It seems to catch a little and lunge into gear somewhat, at least when I have it on my stand.

I got the springs/retainers installed and torqued them to 5 Nm like they suggested. When I went to pull the old pressure plate off, I pulled the long rod out about 3-4" to remove the end cap . The Speedymoto plate has a bearing and does not require that end cap like the stocker and I had to pull the rod out some to get it off (probably could have gotten it off with the rod pulled out just 2"). Could pulling that rod out that far cause any problems? Do I need to pull the clutch to get it seated properly again?

Thanks!

I went through the same thing this weekend, only when I was finished I couldn't even pull my clutch lever in. As it turned out, I didn't line my Speedymoto pressure plate up with the proper post on the clutch side. There's a slot in each piece. Line 'em up. Bolt 'em down. Make sure the teeth are completely seated and then tighten just past finger tight. As for the rod, mine seated pretty easily into the new plate, no need to pound the sucker in. Just make sure the end cap from the rod isn't still stuck in the oem pressure plate. If the rod isn't seated properly it won't push the plate out far enough and you'll get erratic shifting if any shifting at all. This all might seem obvious, but being my first time, I certainly screwed it up until Anthony from Desmo gave me some tips.

Hope this helps... mine's now running flawlessly and looks even better!!!!!

B

[shat]

Axe,
No way to screw up the clutch rod per se unless it's pulled out and reversed (which if I read right you did not do). It's a clean shot into the slave cylinder with nothing to misalign. I've had these engine bottoms apart down to the piece part. Sounds like it's an aftermarket clutch issue as discussed.
shat

[AXE]

Thanks for the comments, they are dead on! I pulled the clutch cover and pressure plate and indexed them according to the notches on the drum pin (where the spring/retainer bolt goes) and presure plate hole. I wish the directions that came with the pressure plate made this simple statement. The service manual I finally printed today states this too.

Anyway, it seems to shift a lot smoother and the clutch lever seems "normal" again. I noticed is that when I test drove it, it seemed to lurge a little when I idled it. Now, I can't recall if I have ever did that before, so I may not be comparing it to anything I have experienced prior to this installation. It could have been that the bike wasn't up to operating temp or the fact I recently did my ECU and have not had it into the dealer for calibration (idles just like normal when on the stand)

One last thing I noticed is the lurching seemed to subside some when I backed off the pressure on the springs from the recommended 5-7 Nm that the service manual recommends. I know that when I pulled the stockers the springs didn't seem to be that compressed and actually had a couple coils showing in the stock pressure plate, but I don't think you can compare it with the Speedymoto pressure plate due to signifcantly different design.

It looks good, but sounds like a D-9 Caterpillar pushing dirt.

I actually have an MPL slave cylinder coming from RageMoto, so I will get to that soon.

Out!

[Brainfry]

Originally Posted by AXE

Thanks for the comments, they are dead on! I pulled the clutch cover and pressure plate and indexed them according to the notches on the drum pin (where the spring/retainer bolt goes) and presure plate hole. I wish the directions that came with the pressure plate made this simple statement. The service manual I finally printed today states this too.

Anyway, it seems to shift a lot smoother and the clutch lever seems "normal" again. I noticed is that when I test drove it, it seemed to lurge a little when I idled it. Now, I can't recall if I have ever did that before, so I may not be comparing it to anything I have experienced prior to this installation. It could have been that the bike wasn't up to operating temp or the fact I recently did my ECU and have not had it into the dealer for calibration (idles just like normal when on the stand)

One last thing I noticed is the lurching seemed to subside some when I backed off the pressure on the springs from the recommended 5-7 Nm that the service manual recommends. I know that when I pulled the stockers the springs didn't seem to be that compressed and actually had a couple coils showing in the stock pressure plate, but I don't think you can compare it with the Speedymoto pressure plate due to signifcantly different design.

It looks good, but sounds like a D-9 Caterpillar pushing dirt.

I actually have an MPL slave cylinder coming from RageMoto, so I will get to that soon.

Out!

Cool. Glad it worked out. Every now and then it's something really simple.
Let me know how you like the MPL cylinder, my clutch action is pretty good and I don't mind a little stiffness in the lever, but you can always improve a litte, right? Why aren't you going with an evoluzione slave? Just out of curiosity... (I have one on my K1200R and it's like night and day... R's are known to have extremely stiff clutch pulls and this slave cleared it right up.)

B

[AXE]

I chose the MPL slave cylinder primarily because of convenience and price when I was ordering my other goods from RageMoto. I thought it would look good with some other MPL stuff I was thinking of adding, like the frame plugs. I really didn’t research either brand, so I guess I get what I get.

Out!

[Ragemoto2]

Originally Posted by AXE

I chose the MPL slave cylinder primarily because of convenience and price when I was ordering my other goods from RageMoto. I thought it would look good with some other MPL stuff I was thinking of adding, like the frame plugs. I really didn’t research either brand, so I guess I get what I get.

Out!

Hey Axe,
Nice to see things are working out for you. You made very good decision with the MPL slave. It is far superior to the Evo both in function and design. I have tested every brand of clutch slave both on my 996 and Monster, nothing to date has compared. I have also pulled apart all of the slaves as well, trust me when I tell you that you made the correct choice!

[BillyD]

Originally Posted by Ragemoto2

Hey Axe,
... the MPL slave. It is far superior to the Evo both in function and design.

Alright, so what specifically is so much better on the MPL vs Evo slave cylinders?

Inquiring minds need to know.

[Brainfry]

"It is far superior to the Evo both in function and design."

With all due respect, I'd be curious to hear how as well... as there are many people extremely happy with Evo products, design and service.

B