first oil change

[hyperdookie]

Just passed 600mi. I'm planning on doing my own services based on bad dealership experiences. I went to my local dealer for a filter and oil, and was informed that they don't carry the recommended Shell Advance Ultra 4 oil. They use Honda oil. Took the filter... left the oil. Any suggestions? What viscosity is the Shell?

[AXE]

From what I understand, that Shell Advance 4 is not readily available in the USA. My dealer uses Motorex 10W50, which you can find at a lot of shops including Cycle Gear. It too costs and arm and a leg or you can just leave a left nut.

Bottom line, use a good name brand oil and you are good to go. I have run Castrol ActEvo, Mobil 1, Motorex, Rotella, etc. and neve thought twice.



Out!

[hyperdookie]

Thanks AXE! Think I'll keep the nut and pay cash.Less painful.Any thoughts on Redline full syn motorcycle oil? I'm in the automotive industry and could have it delivered to me, at a discount!

[08hyper]

Use any high quality motorcycle specific motor oil, preferably full synthetic, 10w-40w for the most of us, if you live in the desert heat, 110 degrees plus,
use 20w-50w. I use Mobil 1 Motorcycle Racing 10w-40w, available from Kragen or Autozone auto parts stores, Amzoil & Redline are also good choices. Alex

[shat]

At my 600, against the advice of the dealer, I chose 20W50 mineral for motorcycles by Lucas (O'Reilly's at $7 a qt) because it's without addatives, will allow the cylinder walls to continue to bed the rings and I figured since it cost a lot it, must be good. I'm not switching to synthetic until 7500 despite what duacti says. The rings are cast iron and the cylinders are nikasil. That means early seating of the rings which is critical to prolonged engine life is delayed with super slick synthetics as recommended by ducati. Also, because the clutch is dry, normal wet clutch reservations for synthetic are out the window. For more on this, read: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

out

[SURVEYOR]

I USE RELINE 10-40
30K MILES ON MY MULTI & 2500 MILES ON THE HYPER
NO PROBLEM i JUST TAKE THE OIL TO THE DEALER & LET THEM DO EVERTHING.

[speedfreak]

Originally Posted by shat

At my 600, against the advice of the dealer, I chose 20W50 mineral for motorcycles by Lucas (O'Reilly's at $7 a qt) because it's without addatives, will allow the cylinder walls to continue to bed the rings and I figured since it cost a lot it, must be good. I'm not switching to synthetic until 7500 despite what duacti says. The rings are cast iron and the cylinders are nikasil. That means early seating of the rings which is critical to prolonged engine life is delayed with super slick synthetics as recommended by ducati. Also, because the clutch is dry, normal wet clutch reservations for synthetic are out the window. For more on this, read: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

out

But don't forget that you still need the additive for the transmission. No wet clutch so you can run oil with Moly in it, but you still need the crush metals to cushion the tranny gears. Most diesel oils have the metals in them, that's why you can run Rotella and Mobil 1 Truck and SuV when it comes synthetic time.

[Buckelew]

Originally Posted by speedfreak

But don't forget that you still need the additive for the transmission. No wet clutch so you can run oil with Moly in it, but you still need the crush metals to cushion the tranny gears. Most diesel oils have the metals in them, that's why you can run Rotella and Mobil 1 Truck and SuV when it comes synthetic time.

what kind of crap is that? "Crush metals"? It's called "long chain polymers". a good substitute is to change often. shearing of the polymers is what reduced viscosity.

I subscribe to the dyno oil until the motor breaks in (at about 5k miles in a v-twin).

but...after break-in (5k miles), Redline is a SUPERB oil. It lasted longer, in my air-cooled FJ1200's, than just about all other oils.