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Jan 16th, 2012, 8:05 pm
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 261
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PCV+?? (Autotune or a dyno run)
I have put a 15+44 sprocket setup on my 796, and it now runs better, but the low end surge is still there. After being able to locate a local shop that does dyno with PCV, i got a quote of > $950 (dyno + PCV + PCV install).
I have heard autotune can automatically adjust some a/f ratio to remove the low end problem, which might save the money of going dyno whenever i have a mode. Haing read the thread AutoTune installed on my 796, I feel challenge about installing that although I am a bit handy. Plus, the autotune is not cheap too $450.
So, my decision is which way to go?
1. PCV + dyno run ($950) + potential more dyno run in the future $$
OR
2. PCV + autotune ($920) + mess around with installations
PS: is autotune really that good? The statement stays true? - "it would take 20 dyno runs and a good tuner to even come close to what the Autotune does"
__________________
Shorty toetip on a 2010 HM 796 Ducati Red
========================================
Stock exhaust/pipe --> LV decat($261)+stock can
Stock air box/filter --> KN filter($64)+Lid removed
Stock rear fender/plate holder --> evotech tail tidy (ebay $104)
Stock mirror/handguard
Stock ecu --> PCV+opt($350)
Stock map --> Dyno map ($350)
Stock handle bar
Stock seat --> Custom lowered (DIY) + upholstery touch up($80)
Stock fork --> Andreani (Group) Fork ($1300)
Stock shock
Stock fairing --> DIY black-tinted windscreen($25) + chinese fake carbon rear hugger ($160) + DIY hugger extension ($16) NEW
Stock sprocket --> stock front+44T supersprox rear($150)
Stock levers --> MC short levers (ebay $58)
Last edited by nethern; Jan 16th, 2012 at 11:19 pm.
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Jan 16th, 2012, 8:56 pm
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#2 (permalink)
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Old Fast Guy
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Gloucester, VA, USA
Posts: 386
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The autotune is pretty good for a mild street tune and somewhat improved driveability, but you need a load dyno that can load the tire to hold the rpms at the set points to allow time for the dyno/ECU software to show the actual AFR for accurate WOT tuning. FYI, the Dynojet dyno basically employs the autotune software function, except the operator can set the throttle and rpms accurately where on the street autotune there is simply no way you can keep the throttle and rpms at the set points long enough to allow truely accurate readings. I recommend the full dyno tune for best results...
__________________
`11 1198SP SBK Red; w/Termi exh; Redline flash + PC-5 tune; Sargent; Shift-tech, EVR(airbox), CDT, & BST(wheels) carbon; FBF 14/39 QC; Speedymoto; R&G; ProGrip; Custom LED; Antigravity; Ducabike; Duc Perf... 170whp/98wtq
`12 1100SP EVO Hyper CORSE; w/Termi exh; Ducshop Stacks; Redline flash + PC-5 tune; FBF 14/41 QC; Shift-tech, CDT, Star, & BST(wheels) carbon; R&G; SF bars; ProGrip; Antigravity; SC Project; Ducabike; Duc Perf slipper; screen, str damper, seat, cat delete... 95whp/75wtq
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Jan 16th, 2012, 10:40 pm
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#3 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: New York, NY, United States
Posts: 22
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the super low budget option being purchase and install the power commander yourself, and search the web for a custom map someone has made with similar specs as yours (full exhaust system, just a slip on, similar model year, etc. etc.) install the map and you're good to go. Its no custom tuning, but it may tide you over till you decide which option suits you
ps, custom maps are widely available and a quick search may even steer you to a map identical to your setup
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Jan 16th, 2012, 11:20 pm
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 261
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My bike is around 2200KM now. Is it suitable for a dyno run? In the manual, it is not recommended to exceed 7500rpm?
__________________
Shorty toetip on a 2010 HM 796 Ducati Red
========================================
Stock exhaust/pipe --> LV decat($261)+stock can
Stock air box/filter --> KN filter($64)+Lid removed
Stock rear fender/plate holder --> evotech tail tidy (ebay $104)
Stock mirror/handguard
Stock ecu --> PCV+opt($350)
Stock map --> Dyno map ($350)
Stock handle bar
Stock seat --> Custom lowered (DIY) + upholstery touch up($80)
Stock fork --> Andreani (Group) Fork ($1300)
Stock shock
Stock fairing --> DIY black-tinted windscreen($25) + chinese fake carbon rear hugger ($160) + DIY hugger extension ($16) NEW
Stock sprocket --> stock front+44T supersprox rear($150)
Stock levers --> MC short levers (ebay $58)
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Jan 17th, 2012, 6:38 am
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#5 (permalink)
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Old Fast Guy
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Gloucester, VA, USA
Posts: 386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nethern
My bike is around 2200KM now. Is it suitable for a dyno run? In the manual, it is not recommended to exceed 7500rpm?
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The bike should be fine. I have the rev limiter set to 9800 rpm on my 1100SP.
__________________
`11 1198SP SBK Red; w/Termi exh; Redline flash + PC-5 tune; Sargent; Shift-tech, EVR(airbox), CDT, & BST(wheels) carbon; FBF 14/39 QC; Speedymoto; R&G; ProGrip; Custom LED; Antigravity; Ducabike; Duc Perf... 170whp/98wtq
`12 1100SP EVO Hyper CORSE; w/Termi exh; Ducshop Stacks; Redline flash + PC-5 tune; FBF 14/41 QC; Shift-tech, CDT, Star, & BST(wheels) carbon; R&G; SF bars; ProGrip; Antigravity; SC Project; Ducabike; Duc Perf slipper; screen, str damper, seat, cat delete... 95whp/75wtq
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Jan 17th, 2012, 6:35 pm
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccemn1
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Wow, that is news for me. So I should run it as hard as I can then.
__________________
Shorty toetip on a 2010 HM 796 Ducati Red
========================================
Stock exhaust/pipe --> LV decat($261)+stock can
Stock air box/filter --> KN filter($64)+Lid removed
Stock rear fender/plate holder --> evotech tail tidy (ebay $104)
Stock mirror/handguard
Stock ecu --> PCV+opt($350)
Stock map --> Dyno map ($350)
Stock handle bar
Stock seat --> Custom lowered (DIY) + upholstery touch up($80)
Stock fork --> Andreani (Group) Fork ($1300)
Stock shock
Stock fairing --> DIY black-tinted windscreen($25) + chinese fake carbon rear hugger ($160) + DIY hugger extension ($16) NEW
Stock sprocket --> stock front+44T supersprox rear($150)
Stock levers --> MC short levers (ebay $58)
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Jan 17th, 2012, 7:37 pm
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Ft. Myers Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 531
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Most racers & tuners I know do!
I had a Porsche Speedster that I put a brand new motor in. Because it was a high end item, I babied the motor like you would according to any manufacturers break-in procedures.
The rings never seated on the damn thing. It still smokes, 20 years later!
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Jan 17th, 2012, 7:46 pm
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Ft. Myers Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nethern
Wow, that is news for me. So I should run it as hard as I can then.
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I think most importantly, run the engine fairly hard, but vary the RPM's a lot, up & down. Then, change the oil & filter at about 50 miles, then again at about 200. Maybe once more at 1200, or 1300, before going to regular scheduled changes. In the very beginning, when everything is 'seating in', there's a lot of junk coming off the rings, cylinders, bearings, valves & seats, etc. It's important to keep from recycling that through your motor. Running hard, frequent, early oil & filter changes will make everything wear in & seat really good!
Mobil One, or any high quality, fully synthetic oil is a must also!
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Jan 30th, 2012, 2:10 pm
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#10 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccemn1
Mobil One, or any high quality, fully synthetic oil is a must also!
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I was with you until this last line! Synthetic oil's just TOO good for running an engine in - it's so effective at reducing wear that it simply prevents bedding in.
If you used synthetic when breaking in the Porsche, it would certainly explain the issue you've had...
__________________
Regards
Rob
Peak District
UK
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