AutoTune installed on my 796 - Ducati.ms

Seven9Six · Oct 26th, 2011, 6:32 pm

Just got done with my Autotune install. This is not for the feint of heart or any mechanically impaired owners. It was a bitch.

My setup is 2010 HM 796 with right side-single outlet..Mivv exhaust slip on....stock air filter and box...stock collectors with the cat convertor.............15 x 44 gears...Powercommander PC5 with optimizer box....and the Autotune.

Since there are no fuel maps for the Mivv slip on....I first went with the closest map Dynojet provided which is the Leo Vinci undertail slip on map. This map was close...but not right. Then i had the Ducshop make me a custom map. This map was fast...but not quite right on top end or cruising speed. I could have went back and i'm sure Marc would have corrected the map no charge...no problem......but i knew it would take several trips so i thought i would try the Auto Tune to see what will happen.

This is NOT a bolt on. The Autotune Dual channel uses one wide band 02 sensor on the front header...and one wideband 02 sensor on the rear header pipe. First you have to figure out where to position the sensors....mark them with a center punch....and then remove the entire exhaust system. Then you drill the huge holes....and then take it to a stainless welder who can weld the bungs on the pipe so the sensors will fit up. After that i bead blasted all the crud yellow stains off the entire system...and then polished the entire system so it looks decent again. Then re install the whole system on the bike.

At this point...since the Autotune is a UNIVERSAL kit....

you discover that the lead wires off of the front cylinder are too short....and there is no where to hide that huge ugly connector they provide. So cut it up so you can extend that laed........and solder it back together {10 wires }. Remove the brake pedal and the footpeg bracket holder and route the wires behind it. Then solder the connector back on up near the top of the shock link. Then re solder the other wires so they reach back to the tailight area. The rear cylinder is no problem. The wire is long enough and the connector can be hidden beside the battery.

Now...if you are still here...mount the Autotune somewhere close to the PC5 and the Optimizer box. Good luck with that....i had to make a bracket that fits under the tailight plastic shroud that's under the seat. Now you can cut the wires to the proper length and you find out that the wires will not go through the holes that they are supposed to fit in on the Autotune box. Remove the blockage by taking off the back side of the Autotune...and dig it out. Geez what a nightmare.

If you havn't killed your wife or girlfriend yet....now you can connect the cable between the Autotune and the PC5....AND run a hot lead and ground wire for the Autotune. Turn on the key and watch the red light come on. Turn off the key. Wait...you're not done yet.

Hook up your laptop to the PC5 and configure the Autotune. Make sure you set up for TWO 02 sensors....20% trim level.....160 degrees....and 60 seconds on the software. You are done. Put the seat back on and go for a ride. You won't get 50 feet and you can feel the difference. After 25 miles or so...it is SMOOOOOOOOOTH like it was when you bought it. No shit.....really smooth.

Now i'm going to take a nap. All this took 3 days to do. It was worth it. The best part is the Autotune is ALWAYS finding the correct a/f and adjusting for you. Not only that...but now you can put on any pipe...or collector....any intake or any combo of intake and exhaust....and the Autotune will create the right map for it. No more need for custom maps or CPU reflashes etc.

el tardo · Oct 26th, 2011, 7:24 pm

after all that shit and no pics?? what the hell??

good job man!!!

ktrides2 · Oct 26th, 2011, 7:48 pm

That was a lot of words and I didn't see one mention of T-Pain....

Sorry

Nice write up.

Mr Mike · Oct 26th, 2011, 8:27 pm

Hopefully your "wife of girl friend" is ok

Decreasing Dave · Oct 27th, 2011, 1:24 am

No Pics.......

It didn't happen.....

Dave

Gilly · Oct 27th, 2011, 8:06 am

Is that just a personal preference to leave it installed? I hope you can "autotune" to a point and save the map corrections to the Power Commander. The reason being that if you have a WB sensor fail or begin to fail, what happens to the tuning?

Don't get me wrong, I'm glad there is a solution using the autotune, just that when you have layers of electronics, and something burps... everything becomes suspect or in need of trouble shooting.

Seven9Six · Oct 27th, 2011, 1:42 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilly

Is that just a personal preference to leave it installed? I hope you can "autotune" to a point and save the map corrections to the Power Commander. The reason being that if you have a WB sensor fail or begin to fail, what happens to the tuning?

Don't get me wrong, I'm glad there is a solution using the autotune, just that when you have layers of electronics, and something burps... everything becomes suspect or in need of trouble shooting.

Three ways to avoid that. One...the Autotune is SUPPOSED to work off a map that is already close to being right. So if something fails....you just go back to that map. Two....Autotune saves the adjustments it makes to the map in two ways. One way is to hook up to a Laptop and "save all tables". This makes the corrections permanent to the map. The other way is to use a map switch. The two position map switch allows either the Autotune to
"learn" all the time...OR turned off....the Autotune automatically alters the map permanently.

When i came back from the ride...i hooked up the laptop and "saved all tables". Now the changes that the Autotune made are permanent to the map. If something does go wrong like a sensor fail or something....just revert to the map that worked right.

In really simple terms....right now if something failed while the Autotune is learning and adjusting....and the bike started to run like crap.....all you would need to do is stop and disconnect the hot lead lead from the Autotune...which in turn would force the PC5 to revert to the original map.

When the Autotune was first installed...it was set to correct no more than 20% difference from the map it was based on. I have now set the correction to 10% as it says in the directions. Now...if the Autotune fails....it cannot fail more than 10% from the previous corrections. So.....with only a 10% difference....there is no way it can fail bad enough to hardly notice.

mrlittle · Oct 28th, 2011, 3:06 pm

nice job. good info

DynojetResearch · Oct 28th, 2011, 5:50 pm

Just a heads for anyone that may do this in the future. There is not a blockage where the wires go into the auto tune module. We put a piece of felt on the inside to keep debris out of the unit. In the instructions it says to use a paperclip or similar to poke the hole first. Also tinning the wire will help insert it.

Glad the end results were good though! Thanks for the feedback.

Seven9Six · Oct 28th, 2011, 6:45 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by DynojetResearch

Just a heads for anyone that may do this in the future. There is not a blockage where the wires go into the auto tune module. We put a piece of felt on the inside to keep debris out of the unit. In the instructions it says to use a paperclip or similar to poke the hole first. Also tinning the wire will help insert it.

Glad the end results were good though! Thanks for the feedback.

Your welcome....the Autotune is finally a product that works like it is advertised. In my opinion it would take 20 dyno runs and a good tuner to even come close to what the Autotune does. I can even feel that 10% difference in correction also. It's smoother now than it was the day before.

Dusty....can you tell me how to hook up the map switch please? Does it connect to the open Autotune port...or does it connect to the open PC5 port?I have searched for hours anjd cannot find any instructions on any site how to do it. I already have the open/close switch.