periodic low idle after PC5 install? - Ducati.ms

spindrift · Oct 13th, 2011, 12:55 pm

I've a 796, with cat-elim and PC5. I uploaded the 'stock' map, which I know some said might be a little too lean, but everything seemed generally ok (better fueling under 4k thanks to the O2 Optimizer, etc...), and idle is at ~1700 rpm. However, sometimes after riding for a while, I'll notice the engine suddenly sounds a bit different ('rougher') under ~4k rpm, and when that happens, the idle RPM is *clearly* lower; maybe at 1300-1400...it's definitely too low, it almost stalls sometimes.

I can't see how the idle could 'suddenly' get lower after riding for sometime, and only on SOME rides. I recall people saying that the idle is controlled by the ECU (there are no idle screws which allow me to control it), and the PC5 install has nothing to do with the idle.

Any ideas on what could be happening here, and how to correct? BTW, I am planning on getting a dyno session to obtain a custom map, but only after I finish a few other upgrades.

Thx... -Rob

NikMusolino · Oct 13th, 2011, 1:29 pm

Perhaps it is altitude or climate related. Mi bike never stalls, unless it is cold or at sea level.

Fin_Duc · Oct 14th, 2011, 12:10 am

You resetted the tps reading in PC5 program?

Mine idles at 1250, all the times...

Seven9Six · Oct 14th, 2011, 1:42 am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fin_Duc

You resetted the tps reading in PC5 program?

Mine idles at 1250, all the times...

How? Doesn't our 796 automatically reset the TPS every time we start it?

spindrift · Oct 14th, 2011, 5:04 pm

yeah, that's what I thought. The TPS is reset each time. Maybe my tap into the TPS wire (for the PC5 hookup) is acting a bit flaky and throwing things off. Lordy, who knows....

spindrift · Oct 19th, 2011, 6:18 pm

FWIW, I was trying to diagnose my bike in my open garage, and noticed smoke coming out near hte engine. Somehow, the little hex-nut 'plug' that goes in a hole in the lower exhaust-manifold pipe had come out. (i guess I never had it tight enough and it vibrated out). I plugged it using the hex-nut from my stock exhaust pipes, and shortly thereafter, the low-idle seemed ok and the check-engine light went off. So, presumably the exhaust leaking out so close to the O2 Sensor (rather than making it's normal way through the whole exhaust system) was messing up the low-rpm fueling and AFR (at least, hopefully that's what it was)

Rob

Liberator · Oct 19th, 2011, 7:12 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by spindrift

FWIW, I was trying to diagnose my bike in my open garage, and noticed smoke coming out near hte engine. Somehow, the little hex-nut 'plug' that goes in a hole in the lower exhaust-manifold pipe had come out. (i guess I never had it tight enough and it vibrated out). I plugged it using the hex-nut from my stock exhaust pipes, and shortly thereafter, the low-idle seemed ok and the check-engine light went off. So, presumably the exhaust leaking out so close to the O2 Sensor (rather than making it's normal way through the whole exhaust system) was messing up the low-rpm fueling and AFR (at least, hopefully that's what it was)

Rob

Now that would be a great development. Cross your fingers!

el tardo · Oct 19th, 2011, 7:15 pm

spindrift, you know i have the pc5 on my bike and it was set up at power commander. yes the tps resets it self if you don't touch the throttle when starting the bike. your bike should idle around 1200-1300. i also noticed that i had to use blue lock tite on my header bolts as the self loosen and i was getting popping and i use sealant on exhaust joints so i dont have exhaust leaks. any leak can and will make your bike pop or even act funny. both my O2 sensors have sealant put on them by power commander so they dont leak. when i removed my smog can the air ports were replaced by very short allen screws with sealant on them as well. any leaks anywhere will cause problems.

i do a check on bolts about every month after owning a husky. it vibrated bolts right off the bike even a motor mount bolt. blue lock tite is your friend,lol

on the hyper i noticed when playing with my front sprocket that my kick stand bolt was very loose. so it is wise to check over side case bolts and others just to make sure every now and then.

thats my 2 cents !

Quote:

Originally Posted by spindrift

FWIW, I was trying to diagnose my bike in my open garage, and noticed smoke coming out near hte engine. Somehow, the little hex-nut 'plug' that goes in a hole in the lower exhaust-manifold pipe had come out. (i guess I never had it tight enough and it vibrated out). I plugged it using the hex-nut from my stock exhaust pipes, and shortly thereafter, the low-idle seemed ok and the check-engine light went off. So, presumably the exhaust leaking out so close to the O2 Sensor (rather than making it's normal way through the whole exhaust system) was messing up the low-rpm fueling and AFR (at least, hopefully that's what it was)

Rob

spindrift · Oct 19th, 2011, 8:13 pm

el tardo, thx. And you know what...right after I put the header bolt back in, *without* locktite (which I had right nearby), I said to myself "I should loctite this" But while putting it in, I stripped it. Ugh. I guess I can vise-grip it out, and loctite it back in.

Good idea on sealant for all the exhaust joints too. But I hated that cat-elim install. I may wait until I put on the termi-slip ons, and then do the sealants.

el tardo · Oct 19th, 2011, 8:16 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by spindrift

Good idea on sealant for all the exhaust joints too. But I hated that cat-elim install. I may wait until I put on the termi-slip ons, and then do the sealants.

i here you, when i first did my de-cat it took me a couple of hours to install it right but after taking it off and on a couple of times a can do it in about 15 Min's now. you will figure out the correct order on which parts go on first.

ebay has some header bolts for sale for cheap or Gotham has a set too, hes a site sponsor here. his name is mike and a very cool guy to work with