Electrical issue - Ducati.ms

evil-paul · Sep 7th, 2011, 4:11 pm

So, I am back again. I want to be back posting about riding, but I can't seem to get any luck lately.

I did a bunch of upgrades with the only electrical being a new battery, new battery cables and a new ECU. I just finished with a new air cleaner and subframe install as well as a new slip on. I tried putting on a new ZARD Header, but the mount didn't line up and so I had to reinstall the stock header. I am trying to stay in good spirits, but today i get it all put back together and put in the new battery and think my worries are over. Turn the key and nothing. No lights, nothing. I check the cables and they have continuity from end to end. Checked the fuse box next to the ECU and the fuse at the solenoid and they check out fine (is there any others?). The battery has 13.5 volts, so it's good. I am at a loss, it's as if the key doesn't do anything. I checked the connections at the switch and everything looked snug. I had to loosen the tank for the air filter install, but I don't remember disconnecting anything. Anyone have any ideas about where to start troubleshooting?

Drinky · Sep 7th, 2011, 5:40 pm

Did you tighten the "ground" cable enough, did you clean it as well?

Also, try your old ECU to see if your new one isn't faulty.

evil-paul · Sep 7th, 2011, 6:58 pm

New battery and cables, so they were clean, guess I could check the ground at the mount again, maybe something got on it before I tightened, but I would think the bolt would still provide enough surface area to get through. Ground cable is tight and I tried the old ECU with same result. Does anyone know how the solenoid works, does it switch power when the key is turned?

PKM · Sep 7th, 2011, 7:41 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by evil-paul

I tried putting on a new ZARD Header, but the mount didn't line up and so I had to reinstall the stock header.

Sorry, can't help with the electrical, hope you get it sorted, but the Zard collectors mount is a longtime source of confusion. The horizontal header pipe does not use the stock mount, it uses the blocked threaded mount about an inch to its right. See this thread and first post photos for more explanation (stock mount is the blue plastic bushing, Zard mount is the blocked threaded hole to its right):

Zard collector problems

After loosening the bolt, I just rotated the "plate" to allow access to the blocked mount and left the rotated plate in place (if you remove the plate completely to access the mount you will need washers). Hope this helps.

Mr Mike · Sep 7th, 2011, 7:53 pm

I remeber an old post similar immobilizer issue
Theres an immobilizer antenna near the ign switch that puts out a field to activate the key. the key has to send a signal to the antenna before bike can start
Could be unpluged. 2 wires

evil-paul · Sep 7th, 2011, 9:24 pm

PKM,

Thanks for the link about the header install. I figured out the mount hole and need for washers, but even with the mount plate removed the mounting bracket on the header was off by 5-10mm. I was hoping that they just welded it in the wrong spot and I could get one that was correct, but seems like maybe they all come that way. I was waiting to hear from them on the matter, but of course Italy is on vacation for the month of August, so it's been a frustrating wait. I guess I can cut and reweld as necessary, but at that point maybe I should have just built my own to begin with.

evil-paul · Sep 7th, 2011, 9:30 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Mike

I remeber an old post similar immobilizer issue
Theres an immobilizer antenna near the ign switch that puts out a field to activate the key. the key has to send a signal to the antenna before bike can start
Could be unpluged. 2 wires

I checked the plug and it was still plugged in. Thanks for the idea though. I did a search and it seems that the immobilizer causes problem when attempting to start the bike. I can't even get the dash or lights to turn on. It was working fine before I decided to tear into it (not feeling good about that decision at the moment), so I am guessing I must have done something, but I can't seem to locate any wires that are disconnected or fuses blown. I am baffled that the bike doesn't at least light up, since it seems like the only way it wouldn't is if the battery was disconnected completely, but this bike continues to surprise me in various ways.

08hyper · Sep 8th, 2011, 10:43 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Mike

I remeber an old post similar immobilizer issue
Theres an immobilizer antenna near the ign switch that puts out a field to activate the key. the key has to send a signal to the antenna before bike can start
Could be unpluged. 2 wires

Have you done this one? is so, which wires? Any pics would be helpfull. Thanks, Aloha Alex

NikMusolino · Sep 8th, 2011, 11:46 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by 08hyper

Have you done this one? is so, which wires? Any pics would be helpfull. Thanks, Aloha Alex

+1

Collar always be poppin'! In a bad way, not the urban chic way.

Is anyone else having issues with their immobilizer ring collar housing? I have to give Mine a wiggle every so often to get a start.

Decreasing Dave · Sep 9th, 2011, 2:42 am

I am, but it usually starts without Mi having to wiggle it.

I have the Scotts Submount and it has an aluminum key base that has the pin in it for the damper. The plastic housing that comes with it mounts on top and holds the immobilizer ring.

My plastic immobilizer housing doesn't like to stay in its mounting tabs and I have to push it back in from time to time.

Dave