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Aug 17th, 2011, 12:52 pm
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#1 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 4
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2008 HM-S Clutch Plate Replacement
9k on 2008 HM-S ,... clutch groans off the line. Tried removing cover and while engine running blast compressed air and try and catch dust in a vacuum. Lot's of dust.!!.. , vacuum not practical. No difference in performance after air clean out.
Next , pulled out all 18 plates kept in order with a large zip tie per service manual , and washed all plates with brake cleaner.
This made a big performance difference with crisp predictable clutch engagement now.
It looks like within a few more K miles , I will require new plates. Found of course Duc. oem for $359.00 , and Barnett for $181.00. Any one have experience with new clutch plates , and can recommend ?.......Thanks
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Aug 17th, 2011, 1:07 pm
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,558
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ciao strider,
i've used the ducati oem clutch packs (both the regular and the racing versions), and have also used barnett clutch packs.
with the DP (bucci) slipper clutch on the hypertard, i have not noticed any difference in performance or longevity between the three different clutch packs.
the only caveat i have when using the barnett clutch pack, is that at least with a slipper clutch (where stack height is critical), i have had issues using the barnett wave plates. so when using the barnett clutch pack on a slipper, i use the ducati OEM wave plate, which is available as a separate part from ducati. i seem to remember these wave plates being about $12.00 each.
i have been advised by a few factory trained ducati mechanics to look at the non-friction plates, and install them with the flat edges of the stampings (if you look at the plates from side view, you can see rounded edges on one side of the plate where the part was stamped) facing inwards in the stack (towards the motor). this will help dissipate the heat from the clutch plates faster.
ymmv.
ciao,
johnc
Quote:
Originally Posted by STRIDER
9k on 2008 HM-S ,... clutch groans off the line. Tried removing cover and while engine running blast compressed air and try and catch dust in a vacuum. Lot's of dust.!!.. , vacuum not practical. No difference in performance after air clean out.
Next , pulled out all 18 plates kept in order with a large zip tie per service manual , and washed all plates with brake cleaner.
This made a big performance difference with crisp predictable clutch engagement now.
It looks like within a few more K miles , I will require new plates. Found of course Duc. oem for $359.00 , and Barnett for $181.00. Any one have experience with new clutch plates , and can recommend ?.......Thanks
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vīdī, vīcī, vēnī!
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Aug 17th, 2011, 1:53 pm
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#3 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 4
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Appreciate the info Johnc....
I have the stock closed clutch cover. Thinking about opening it and the pressure plate up with some holes and mill work...I have read this may give better clutch plate cooling , and allow the friction pad dust to disapate ??
Also , unfamiliar with the slipper clutch.....What does this give you in performance change or upgrades from the stock dry clutch ??
Many Thanks
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Aug 17th, 2011, 2:14 pm
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, CA, USA
Posts: 365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STRIDER
Appreciate the info Johnc....
I have the stock closed clutch cover. Thinking about opening it and the pressure plate up with some holes and mill work...I have read this may give better clutch plate cooling , and allow the friction pad dust to disapate ??
Also , unfamiliar with the slipper clutch.....What does this give you in performance change or upgrades from the stock dry clutch ??
Many Thanks
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JohnC is right.
As for opening the cover... Yes, the more air the better, since everybody knows these clutches don't do as well when hot. As for the actual pressure plate... A lot of slipper clutch pressure plates are only partially "swissed", nothing like the Rizoma star pressure plate with its minimal surface area, but those won't work on a slipper clutch, you don't want that... which leads to answer your last question.
A slipper clutch is awesome because it is safer than a oem clutch, what with its more stable downshifts. You don't need to match revs at engine braking... They're just a güd idea! If racers use them, and its cost-justifiable, should go for it. I run an STM.
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'09 HYM1100S Nero
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Aug 17th, 2011, 4:43 pm
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#5 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 4
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Great info....checking out " Slippers "...
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Sep 20th, 2011, 1:16 am
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#6 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sthlm, , Sweden
Posts: 15
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Borrowing this thread instead of starting a new one, hope it's ok
I have the oem dry clutch with open clutch cover. The oem clutch plate is really ugly. Can I change to whatever clutch plate I want? Likte the Rizoma star?
How hard is it to change, just remove the bolts and replace the plate reinstallting the bolts?
And what does it look like behind the clutch plate, i.e. what will be visible if changing to Rizoma star clutch plate?
__________________
I'm from Sweden so bear with my bad spelling.
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Sep 20th, 2011, 1:25 am
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, CA, USA
Posts: 365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hym
Borrowing this thread instead of starting a new one, hope it's ok
I have the oem dry clutch with open clutch cover. The oem clutch plate is really ugly. Can I change to whatever clutch plate I want? Likte the Rizoma star?
How hard is it to change, just remove the bolts and replace the plate reinstallting the bolts?
And what does it look like behind the clutch plate, i.e. what will be visible if changing to Rizoma star clutch plate?
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It is fairly easy to change the pressure plate. Buy a new pushrod bearing, or push the existing one out of the oem pressure plate, as the Rizoma piece will be shipped to you without a bearing pressed in. Press that bearing into the Rizoma piece.
Behind this gloriously minimalist pressure plate --make sure you torque the spring screws taut-- will be your top metal, sintered plate of your clutch stack. Beautiful.
HOWEVER: I advise against... Get a slipper clutch. The ride is unlyke stock in a very güd way.
__________________
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'09 HYM1100S Nero
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Sep 20th, 2011, 1:34 am
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#8 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sthlm, , Sweden
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikMusolino
It is fairly easy to change the pressure plate. Buy a new pushrod bearing, or push the existing one out of the oem pressure plate, as the Rizoma piece will be shipped to you without a bearing pressed in. Press that bearing into the Rizoma piece.
Behind this gloriously minimalist pressure plate --make sure you torque the spring screws taut-- will be your top metal, sintered plate of your clutch stack. Beautiful.
HOWEVER: I advise against... Get a slipper clutch. The ride is unlyke stock in a very güd way.
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Tnx, the slipper clutch costs 10 times more so I think I will go with just a good looking clutch plate.
__________________
I'm from Sweden so bear with my bad spelling.
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Sep 20th, 2011, 2:06 am
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, CA, USA
Posts: 365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hym
Tnx, the slipper clutch costs 10 times more so I think I will go with just a good looking clutch plate.
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No... Six times more. You can get a STM slipper that retains your oem plates for $685. I think it is justifiable for such a smoothness benefit, at the track especially.
__________________
/^\
'09 HYM1100S Nero
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Sep 20th, 2011, 2:10 am
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#10 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sthlm, , Sweden
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikMusolino
No... Six times more. You can get a STM slipper that retains your oem plates for $685. I think it is justifiable for such a smoothness benefit, at the track especially.
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Well that better than 10 times. Where can I find it? Hope they'll ship to EU.
__________________
I'm from Sweden so bear with my bad spelling.
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