Broken Hyper charging system (stator/rotor/other) - Ducati.ms

noc · Jun 2nd, 2011, 3:37 pm

After watching this site for years I've finally decided my problem is big enough to bring it to the public. My local forum can't answer some questions.

Problem:
My Hyper is no longer ridable due to electric issues. I need advice as I'm out of money trying to get it fixed and I don't want a 10-grand paperweight.

Recent history:
Had 12K service, great. Then a week later bad noises, so back to mechanic. Eventually find out my shifter arm broke inside the case and messed up the starter gears and cogs. Replaced lots of stuff on that side. Rode (rides) great again. Few days pass and I see the batter is always on low voltage or dead. New battery didn't fix it, so..

Current issue:
Very little power is reaching the battery, so she dies after short rides. We don't think the Regulator/Rectifier is the problem because we tested the AC volts directly at the stator wire (which is before the R/R) and it puts out only 10V at idle. Should be 40V+. So the problem should be inside the case.

Failed solutions:
Back to a mechanic (new mechanic at this point). The stator is tested fine by the mechanic. Stator Is sent to RM Stator, a testing facility in Montreal, and they say its fine. So we buy another magnetic rotor in case the magnetism had vanished. Installed and still doesn't work.

My mechanic can't think of anything else. There are no wires to test inside the case. The rotor and stator have been tested. Everything seems aligned well. The engine turns-over and runs well - so lots of power from that end.

I'm stumped. Poor. And the mechanic wants my bike out of his garage.

Are there any bike electricians on this forum with ideas? Thanks muchly.

Hypermotard 1100S 2008 | stock aside from MBP collets

Decreasing Dave · Jun 2nd, 2011, 11:58 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by noc

[FONT="Arial"][COLOR="DarkSlateGray"]Current issue:
Very little power is reaching the battery, so she dies after short rides. We don't think the Regulator/Rectifier is the problem because we tested the AC volts directly at the stator wire (which is before the R/R) and it puts out only 10V at idle. Should be 40V+.

THIS ^^^^^^

Failed solutions:
Back to a mechanic (new mechanic at this point). The stator is tested fine by the mechanic. Stator Is sent to RM Stator, a testing facility in Montreal, and they say its fine. So we buy another magnetic rotor in case the magnetism had vanished. Installed and still doesn't work.

DOESN'T JIVE WITH THIS ^^^^^^

Hypermotard 1100S 2008 | stock aside from MBP collets

What is your voltage reading now??
Where are you testing it??

Dave

steve998s · Jun 3rd, 2011, 2:08 am

throw a regulator rectifier (reg rec) at it anyway.
Also What is your battery condition? does it hold charge or take charge?

have you checked the continuity of all wires coming from the stator?
If you had an issue like you did there is the possibility of having some wires
cut, damaged etc.

got a multimeter?

cheers

noc · Jun 3rd, 2011, 8:52 am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Decreasing Dave

What is your voltage reading now??
Where are you testing it??
Dave

Thanks for the response Dave. We think we have it solved. Just need a test ride Saturday.

Starting at the top, I tried a new battery and fuses, no luck.

Was going to replace the R/R but after testing the stator cord directly - there was no need. The problem is inside the case. Not enough juice.

Inside the case are only two items that should be affecting the power, afterall its an electro-magnet. So either the magnetic rotor or the stator coils are at fault (or the engine, but its fine too).

The stator coils were removed and benched professionally and they/it are fine. Therefore its the rotor. I ordered one and we thought it was 'wrong' because it has a different weight and size. I had to convince my new mechanic that the part is probably the correct one (he had given up by this point).

TURNS OUT (annoyed) the previous mechanic had swapped in a 'lightweight' or simply the 'wrong' rotor when replacing parts. He never told me he did this. No paperwork either. We risked putting the second rotor in and now it works.

Such a simple thing cost so much trying to diagnose. Had we known there was a replaced rotor we would have looked at it first.

noc · Jun 3rd, 2011, 8:58 am

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve998s

throw a regulator rectifier (reg rec) at it anyway.
Also What is your battery condition? does it hold charge or take charge?

have you checked the continuity of all wires coming from the stator?
If you had an issue like you did there is the possibility of having some wires
cut, damaged etc.
got a multimeter?
cheers

The new mechanic pulled an R/R from another duc to test but it didn't help. The problem is before that unit. Engine, or stator, or rotor.

I used my multimeter for what I know to test and the problem led back to the stator wire coming from the case. Also tried a new battery. To eliminate wires I ended testing with the only wire coming from the case.

So as I just mentioned above to Dave, we think we just figured out the issue - wrong rotor.

Appreciate the reply.

noc · Jun 3rd, 2011, 9:11 am

So one day after finally giving up, having my mechanic try to send the bike to purgatory, and setting up an account here to beg for help - we figure it out. Figures.

Technically I figured it out, heh. I knew my first mechanic tends to... re-use parts sometimes. He's a race mechanic and a good one, but is used to stripping them down daily, not to daily grind.

So when the second rotor arrived and was different in size and dimensions I had to convince my new mechanic to use it. I explained that I had equal trust in Gotham Cycles getting me the right part compared to the first mechanic using the right part. 50/50.

I've not seen her yet but apparently she is charging the battery again and the multi says 40V AC or more at idle. Fantastic!

Cash. I talked to the first mechanic, and while I think he should cover the whole bill...I also realize this won't happen. In fact I had planned on getting nothing from him. However, I talked him into about half the bill and was shocked at that. Good enough.

What a waste of time and money though.

Thanks for the ideas and for the help. I know have a decent understanding of testing-order should anyone ever have similar start issues. Maybe I should make a little chart...

Now some keen readers my say that I wouldn't have run into this issue had I gone to the first mechanic only. That he knew about the part, etc.:

The trouble was he lives 4x further away and up to that point tended to over-charge as well. There is also the hindsight view - he swapped out a part and didn't tell me, plus it was the wrong part.

Decreasing Dave · Jun 3rd, 2011, 11:48 pm

Well that's both good news and bad. I'm happy and sad for you.

That is where I was going with my post (don't I look like the hero, post facto). It just didn't make sense that it tested bad but then tested good.

I'm glad it all worked out. FTR, a race mechanic would have checked that before and after installation. IMHO, he's a hack and you're better off without him touching your bike.

Happy riding,
Dave

noc · Jun 3rd, 2011, 11:53 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Decreasing Dave

you're better off without him touching your bike.
Happy riding,
Dave

hah! Thanks, I hope to pick her up tomorrow for a quick jaunt.

Also, nice bike, we seem to have the exact same one. The black is go-fast paint. Silly reds.

Decreasing Dave · Jun 3rd, 2011, 11:58 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by noc

hah! Thanks, I hope to pick her up tomorrow for a quick jaunt.

Also, nice bike, we seem to have the exact same one. The black is go-fast paint. Silly reds.

Reds are for Sheeple....

Dave