Quote:
Originally Posted by SSR-SFS
Ok so in the REAR I have to return the 5 turns I softened the spring and reduce the ride height just by adjusting the link to the min pos.
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Yes
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSR-SFS
If I reduce the link distance the spring will not compress to much and make the rear bumpy ?
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No
Certainly not baggin' on 'ya dude but I am a bit puzzled about why you did what you did. I mean, you had it right in this post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSR-SFS
Please forgive my ignorance but to lower the rear you adjusted to the min the rear link next to the shock correct?
And the front just buy the allen bolts in the forks?
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...but then you changed your mind??
Ok, here's what I would do. First I would return the spring on the shock to where you started before you "lowered" it. Then, I would set the correct sag on the shock and the forks. You do not need to be able to touch the ground for this but you will need at least one more person to do it correctly/easily.
Then, I would take measurements from the ground to a solid point on the rear of the bike and again at the front of the bike.
Then, and only then, would I turn the rear linkage down to its lowest setting, thereby lowering the rear of the bike.
Now, take that measurement from the ground to the solid point at the rear of the bike again. Note the difference between what it was, and what it is now. For arguement's sake, lets just say it's 30mm lower now.
Now you want to support the front of the bike at the triple clamps (a stand or hang from rafters?). You can now loosen the allen bolts on the triple clamps and push the fork tubes higher in the clamps. You want 30mm out of the adjustment so that the front and rear will remain balanced (at least to begin with) but with the rake of the forks, you will probably have to push the fork up more than 30mm to achieve this.
Once that is set (it will be trial and error until it is correct), you now have a bike that has the correct sag for your weight and is lowered the maximum that you can do without major modifications/changing parts.
At this point, changing the seat to the comfort seat or even the racing seat will yield you a better reach to the ground.
One thing to note. There is a chance that you cannot go high enough with the fork tubes to equal the amount that you lowered the rear due to the handlebars being in the way. There are handle bar risers that can help with this, but if it were me, I would go as far as I could with the front, then readjust the rear (easier, doesn't need to "hang" while you do it) to match the front until I could get some risers. This way, the attitude of the bike is uneffected and it will handle as Ducati had intended.
Dave
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