TB sync? - Ducati.ms

freezer16801 · Dec 8th, 2010, 2:23 am

For anyone who has sync'd there throttle bodies, could you outline the steps for me? I have a morgan carb tune that I used to do a few previous bikes.

dukepilot · Dec 8th, 2010, 1:21 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by freezer16801

For anyone who has sync'd there throttle bodies, could you outline the steps for me? I have a morgan carb tune that I used to do a few previous bikes.

Assuming that your TPS setting, fuel trim, belt tension and valve clearances are within spec, and your air filter is reasonably clean here are the steps I use:

1. Warm up the engine to operating temp, then turn engine off
2. Turn in the airbleed screws on each throttle body, you'll adjust these later (you might want to write down the number of turns each screw is out)
3. Connect the carb tune to the intake manifolds, be sure you have the dampers installed in the carb tune, per the carb tune instructions.
4. Start the engine, note the position of the carb tune tubes at idle (1300 rpm) and at 4,000 rpm. Some like to synch at idle, others take an average between idle and 3500-4000, personally, I like to equalize at 4,000 rpm.
5. Locate the linkage adjustment screw, adjust as necessary. You'll need a long screwdriver.
6. Disconnect the carbtune and reinstall the caps/screws on your intake manifold.
7. Adjust the airbleeds... to do this you should have a gas tester and adapter for the test fittings on each header pipe. The idea is to equalize the CO at idle for each cylinder by turning out the air bleeds. Alternatively, you can turn the air bleed screws out to the position they were in originally and make adjustments from there to get a smooth/consistent idle (at around 1300rpm). Or, you can go out about 3/4 turns on each air bleed, and make adjustments from there to get a smooth/consistent idle. You shouldn't have to go out more than 1.25 turns on either screw. The air bleed settings are going to be different for each cylinder.

Hyperbole · Dec 8th, 2010, 7:21 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by dukepilot

Assuming that your TPS setting, fuel trim, belt tension and valve clearances are within spec, and your air filter is reasonably clean here are the steps I use:

1. Warm up the engine to operating temp, then turn engine off
2. Turn in the airbleed screws on each throttle body, you'll adjust these later (you might want to write down the number of turns each screw is out)
3. Connect the carb tune to the intake manifolds, be sure you have the dampers installed in the carb tune, per the carb tune instructions.
4. Start the engine, note the position of the carb tune tubes at idle (1300 rpm) and at 4,000 rpm. Some like to synch at idle, others take an average between idle and 3500-4000, personally, I like to equalize at 4,000 rpm.
5. Locate the linkage adjustment screw, adjust as necessary. You'll need a long screwdriver.
6. Disconnect the carbtune and reinstall the caps/screws on your intake manifold.
7. Adjust the airbleeds... to do this you should have a gas tester and adapter for the test fittings on each header pipe. The idea is to equalize the CO at idle for each cylinder by turning out the air bleeds. Alternatively, you can turn the air bleed screws out to the position they were in originally and make adjustments from there to get a smooth/consistent idle (at around 1300rpm). Or, you can go out about 3/4 turns on each air bleed, and make adjustments from there to get a smooth/consistent idle. You shouldn't have to go out more than 1.25 turns on either screw. The air bleed settings are going to be different for each cylinder.

And this is why I love this forum. Bravo and thank you!

freezer16801 · Dec 8th, 2010, 10:47 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by dukepilot

Assuming that your TPS setting, fuel trim, belt tension and valve clearances are within spec, and your air filter is reasonably clean here are the steps I use:

1. Warm up the engine to operating temp, then turn engine off
2. Turn in the airbleed screws on each throttle body, you'll adjust these later (you might want to write down the number of turns each screw is out)
3. Connect the carb tune to the intake manifolds, be sure you have the dampers installed in the carb tune, per the carb tune instructions.
4. Start the engine, note the position of the carb tune tubes at idle (1300 rpm) and at 4,000 rpm. Some like to synch at idle, others take an average between idle and 3500-4000, personally, I like to equalize at 4,000 rpm.
5. Locate the linkage adjustment screw, adjust as necessary. You'll need a long screwdriver.
6. Disconnect the carbtune and reinstall the caps/screws on your intake manifold.
7. Adjust the airbleeds... to do this you should have a gas tester and adapter for the test fittings on each header pipe. The idea is to equalize the CO at idle for each cylinder by turning out the air bleeds. Alternatively, you can turn the air bleed screws out to the position they were in originally and make adjustments from there to get a smooth/consistent idle (at around 1300rpm). Or, you can go out about 3/4 turns on each air bleed, and make adjustments from there to get a smooth/consistent idle. You shouldn't have to go out more than 1.25 turns on either screw. The air bleed settings are going to be different for each cylinder.

I have brand new duchop stacks that were installed during the belt tension and valve clearance check about 100 miles ago.

I don't have a gas tester to set the fuel trim. Is this a deal breaker? I don't really want to spend the money on a gunston, because I would opt to spend that money on a PCV and auto tune instead.

Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it!

dukepilot · Dec 8th, 2010, 10:59 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by freezer16801

I have brand new duchop stacks that were installed during the belt tension and valve clearance check about 100 miles ago.

I don't have a gas tester to set the fuel trim. Is this a deal breaker? I don't really want to spend the money on a gunston, because I would opt to spend that money on a PCV and auto tune instead.

Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it!

You really should have the fuel trim set with a gas tester first before you do the synch or install the PCV. Just one less variable to deal with.

freezer16801 · Jul 3rd, 2011, 2:39 am

does anyone have a pic of where you attach the carb tune to the throttle bodies and the screw to sync the TB's?

Gilly · Dec 9th, 2011, 5:47 pm

While there are some differences in some bikes, this represents how the lines that are hooked up to your emissions canister are the ones used to perform the TB Sync.

If you emissions can was removed, the taps at the base of the throttle bodies would have either small leads of tube that are capped or the actual tube was removed and a plug screw was put in its place. Even when I remove evap cans, I leave enough line to perform TB Sync. Also notice that the two TB lines join, then goto the evap can. I usually remove the T, and cap the two lines to the TB's. and tuck them into the motor.