Hyper Front Wheel Install/Setup Question - Ducati.ms

Steve C · Nov 23rd, 2010, 5:52 pm

A couple months ago I had one of the front calipers lock up at the track after only two warm up laps at well below anything that would be considered a hot lap!!! I pulled the calipers, split them in half and cleaned everything up, even though other than toasted pads they looked fine. So I'm still scratching my head for what caused the problem and I figured when all else fails read the shop manual:

Refitting the front wheel
When through with the necessary inspections, refit the wheel as follows.
Lubricate spacers (3) and (9) and fit them in the seals on either side of the wheel hub:

Insert the complete wheel between the fork legs.
Grease the wheel shaft (10) and thread.
Fit the tool no. 8000.70139 to the wheel shaft (10).
Push the shaft (10) fully home into the wheel hub and insert the tool reference pin into the special notches at fork bottom end.

Grease the washer (2) to the wheel shaft end. Grease the thread and underside of the shaft check nut (1) and then fit the check nut.
Tighten the nut (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

OK, pretty straight forward except for the "Fit the tool no. 8000.70139 to the wheel shaft (10).Push the shaft (10) fully home into the wheel hub and insert the tool reference pin into the special notches at fork bottom end."

On my non S model I don't have any notches at the fork bottom, only in the axle itself. Is the just an Italian to English translation typo or WTF over

. I do have the aftermarket axle tool that engages the notches in the axle, and use it to "position" the axle all the way into the fork leg.

I really don't want to burn up another set of $60 brake pads or ruin a set of calipers or worse. I've also looked at the master cylinder, free play on the lever and fluid level, all are fine. Any help, thoughts etc. etc. are appreciated.

Monstaman · Nov 23rd, 2010, 6:38 pm

A correct size screwdriver does the same, when ever I tighten a wheel I nip up the axle nut first, bounce on the bike and make sure the axle is centred/seated before torquing up the pinch bolts.

Also check for drag on the discs.

One thing to check on your master is make sure it has not been adjusted so the piston goes past the bleed port or it will evenually act like a handbrake and stay on.

nlzmo400r · Nov 23rd, 2010, 9:43 pm

I never bother even putting the front wheel on HYMs, they never seem to touch the ground

On a serious note, yes a screwdriver will do the trick. And most definitely run the axle nut up 'hand tight' and bounce the front of the bike to assure its centered and is not exposed to any akward forces. Then tq down the nut, pinch bolts and caliper bolts.

Steve C · Nov 24th, 2010, 5:04 am

I agree on the lack of necessity for a front wheel on the Hyper, most of the time

. maybe I should do like Christian Pfeiffer and take the thing off, doesn't seem to bother him one little bit

So if I hear what you guys AREN'T saying, there are no magic notches in the lower fork legs to fit the pin from the Ducati tool into, only the notches in the axle shaft itself

Monstaman · Nov 24th, 2010, 1:06 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve C

So if I hear what you guys AREN'T saying, there are no magic notches in the lower fork legs to fit the pin from the Ducati tool into, only the notches in the axle shaft itself

Correct, the book has many lies in it including fork oil volumes, torque settings, click adjustments on rebound and comp damping on the forks and so on.

CAlexio · Nov 24th, 2010, 5:28 pm

is the ducati tool necessary for front tire removal/replacement?

Steve C · Nov 25th, 2010, 7:07 am

I don't know that it's mandatory but I got the set for front and back from Motomfg (sponsor on this site) and they (it) makes life easier. Kinda off topic but the rear axle nut on mine was a real mutha to get loose and having the proper socket make it doable with minimum pain.

freezer16801 · Nov 25th, 2010, 2:43 pm

my harborfreight impact wrench rips it right off there. I used to have my 100lb wife hanging on to the rear brake for dear life while I had the breaker bar on the rear nut. Now it is effortless.

I also use a screwdriver instead of the special tool for the front.

Steve C · Nov 26th, 2010, 11:12 am

Mine is fine now that I removed it for the first time, apparently the PO (actually POS) must have really leaned on it when it reinstalled the rear wheel after a puncture repair, yes repair, dumb s**t. My ass is worth more than a rear tire, at least too me it is.

Decreasing Dave · Nov 26th, 2010, 11:28 am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve C

Mine is fine now that I removed it for the first time, apparently the PO (actually POS) must have really leaned on it when it reinstalled the rear wheel after a puncture repair, yes repair, dumb s**t. My ass is worth more than a rear tire, at least too me it is.

He probably didn't think so.....

FWIW, I have run plugs in the rear tire (internal installation, with tire off the rim) on my Yamaha R1s up to/over 120 mph. I never had an issue. Not saying that you couldn't, just saying that I didn't.

Dave