749/999: Removing/Swapping/Inspecting Fuel Tank & Pump - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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Old Jul 27th, 2006, 11:27 pm   #1 (permalink)
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749/999: Removing/Swapping/Inspecting Fuel Tank & Pump

Recently I replaced my fuel tank, so I thought I'd take some pics while doing it, so as to be able to share what I did here, so here goes:

Bikes: Any 749/999, including the 749R equipped with the larger tank

Difficulty: Easy to Medium ... 5 out of 10 (if you can do an oil change, you can probably do this too)

Time: About 2 hours or less for the first time... about half that, once experienced.
(assuming all your tools and parts are complete, and everything goes right)

Tools Needed:
  • Metric Wrench/Socket set
  • Set of Metric Allen Wrenches
  • Needlenose & Regular Pliers
  • a few Rags
  • Grease, Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline) or some similar lubricant
  • 2x4 or 4x4 piece of wood, or something similar (to prop the tank up)
  • Piece of Rubber Hose or something to siphon out the gas from the tank. (Click here or here or go to Pep Boys for advice)
  • Bucket or Gasoline Container
Critical Part Needed: (only needed if you will be removing and reinstalling fuel pump, which is located inside the tank)
  • Fuel Pump O-ring (rubber gasket) - cost about US$20 original Ducati Part
______________________________________________

--- If you have a Front and/or Rear stand, put the bike up on it. Make sure you are working in a well-ventilated place that is not sensitive to fuel vapors and spills. Although fuel spill should be very minimal (around 2 ounces), there will be a strong smell of fuel.

--- Siphon out of as much gas from the Fuel Tank as you can, collect it in a gasoline container... place in safe place. (You do not need siphon fuel out if you are not removing the fuel pump, which is located inside the tank. You only need to make sure that you have no more than 1/2 tank of fuel in there, and keep the tank propped-up - you should have little or no problems with fuel spilling then)

--- Remove the 3 allen bolts under the seat section on each side of the bike (see Picture 1):




--- At the very tip of the TAIL FAIRING, you will need to gently "pop" off the tab (underneath) that connects it to the subframe. There is no bolt to unscrew, just a tab you need to pop-away with slow, progressive pressure until come off. (this is for monoposto, may be slightly different for biposto)

--- The TAIL FAIRING, the SEAT and the FUEL TANK are all connected into one whole assembly. You will first need to separate the fuel tank. To do that, lift UP on the whole assembly and prop it up... see Picture 2:




--- After you have propped-up the TAIL-SEAT-TANK assembly, remove the 17mm Bolt underneath the seat, in order to separate the TAIL-SEAT from the TANK. See Picture 3:



--- Put the TAIL-SEAT Assembly in a safe place where it will not be damaged or scratched.

--- Now you can work exclusively on the Tank. The first thing you need to do is get an old towel or good size rag to place underneath. There will be a minimal amount of fuel spill, so put that on to protect your engine from getting fuel spilled on it.

--- There are 3 couplings underneath the tank that you need to remove. Two of them are fuel lines, the other one is a power line. See Pictures 4 and 5 below:





--- Disconnecting the fuel lines are a bit tricky. You need to just squeeze them and they will come off. If you have large fingers, call your S/O and make her do it ... or for lonely guys, you might have some luck with needle-nose pliers.

--- As you handle the tank from this point forward, keep the tank propped-up, to avoid any further spilling.

--- Next, disconnect the 2 breather hoses in front of the tank. You will need to squeeze the connector with pliers so that it comes loose. Do not use hard pressure, only slow progressive pressure. Nothing will spill out of these hoses. See Picture 6:




--- Once you have disconnected all lines and hoses from the Tank, you are ready to remove the tank. The front of the tank is connected through two guide pins - all you need to do is just slide the tank towards the back end of the bike and it will come off (see Picture 7). Have a ready area to put it down where it will not get scratched... make sure that the Fuel Pump is at the top end, so as to avoid any spilling.



To remove the Fuel Pump:

--- remove the 3 bolts that attach the Pump to the tank. Once removed, slowly pry-off the Pump Assembly away from the Tank with the help of progressive pressure on a flathead screwdriver. Try to do it evenly a little bit at a time, on each of the 3 sides... that makes it easier to remove. See Picture 8:




--- You will need to slowly move the Fuel Pump Assembly around to get the whole thing to come off the opening in the tank. There is an O-Ring there that is most likely damaged due to disassembly, so you will need to replace that. This is very important ... if not, it will most likely lead to a huge Fuel Spill (guess how I know that). See Picture 9:



--- When putting the Fuel Pump back, with NEW O-Ring, apply a liberal amount of grease, vaseline or some lubricant... if you do not apply enough lubricant, you will run a very high risk of: (1) HAVING A VERY DIFFICULT TIME REINSTALLING THE FUEL PUMP; (2) STRIPPING THE 3 CONNECTION SCREWS due to uneven flange and/or (3) DAMAGING THE O-RING.



--- When reinstalling the Fuel Pump Assembly, make sure that you try to pop it in with progressive hand-force, and as evenly as possibily through out the 3 connection points. If you put enough lube, things should slide in with relatively little effort, and all you will need to do is just bolt the 3 screws back.

So that's it... to reinstall, just do everything Backwards!

Hope this helps, if there is anything I missed or any other tips, please feel free to chime in!
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Old Jul 29th, 2006, 9:54 pm   #2 (permalink)
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... or for lonely guys, you might have some luck with needle-nose pliers.

You Rule, Mate!!! I'm off to the garage...
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Old Jul 31st, 2006, 12:54 am   #3 (permalink)
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Super article. I just might add that its probably a good idea to remove the battery when working with the fuel system.

...............Runs off to the garage as well
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Old Aug 1st, 2006, 2:19 pm   #4 (permalink)
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Minor nit: When you remove the 3 screws from the pump flange, instead of "prying" the flange up evenly, these 3 screws can be screwed into the "extra" holes on the flange, and they act as jacking screws, which lift the flange off nice and even (ya do 'em finger tight, then 1/2 turn or so each, taking turns).
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Try this home-cure-all: Shove a DUC between your legs.

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Old Aug 1st, 2006, 2:22 pm   #5 (permalink)
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Also, I like to leave about 1 gallon in the tank...it comes in handy when you need to check if the o'ring sealed OK or not. Mine didn't on the 1st try! Amazing thing is that I didn't have another o'ring on hand, and I didn't toast the one there. I was able to get a second chance, and it worked.
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Try this home-cure-all: Shove a DUC between your legs.

Present DUC: 2003 ST4S Yellow!
Past DUCs: 1998 ST2, 1981 500SL Pantah, 1985 MHR Mille, 1987 Paso Limited, 1995 916 mono
Other brands (past):
1978 BMW R100RS Motosport, 1978 R100S, 1981 Moto Guzzi V50 Monza (wife's bike), and a long list of Hondasakizukis
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Old Aug 2nd, 2006, 11:02 am   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick
Minor nit: When you remove the 3 screws from the pump flange, instead of "prying" the flange up evenly, these 3 screws can be screwed into the "extra" holes on the flange, and they act as jacking screws, which lift the flange off nice and even (ya do 'em finger tight, then 1/2 turn or so each, taking turns).


Elegant method!

- john
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Old Aug 2nd, 2006, 11:27 am   #7 (permalink)
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After looking again, you actually remove nuts. Then you need to take 3 screws of the correct size and thread pitch to thread into the 3 extra holes. Not sure what size, but I seemed to have 3 kicking around (from removing something else in the process?) This was on my ST2, but these photos look identical.
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Try this home-cure-all: Shove a DUC between your legs.

Present DUC: 2003 ST4S Yellow!
Past DUCs: 1998 ST2, 1981 500SL Pantah, 1985 MHR Mille, 1987 Paso Limited, 1995 916 mono
Other brands (past):
1978 BMW R100RS Motosport, 1978 R100S, 1981 Moto Guzzi V50 Monza (wife's bike), and a long list of Hondasakizukis
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Old Sep 3rd, 2006, 10:33 pm   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick
Also, I like to leave about 1 gallon in the tank...it comes in handy when you need to check if the o'ring sealed OK or not. Mine didn't on the 1st try! Amazing thing is that I didn't have another o'ring on hand, and I didn't toast the one there. I was able to get a second chance, and it worked.
Me too mate.

Great tip about the lubricant (vaseline) for reinserting the pump assembly. I tried for a hour before using the lub. Bloody nightmare
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Old Sep 20th, 2006, 12:25 pm   #9 (permalink)
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I have read that Vaselene can breakdown rubber over time. I know its not good to use on scuba gear.
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Old Sep 21st, 2006, 10:41 am   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dark_Daddy
I have read that Vaselene can breakdown rubber over time. I know its not good to use on scuba gear.
Should be OK on fuel/oil resistant O-rings.

BTW they have complicated removing the tank compared to the 916 series where you only need to undo one bolt.....

well that's progress for you
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