Oil Change: Drain Plug and Screen Particles

[Shazaam]

Ducati engines are equiped with two oil filters. A screen to trap larger particles and a filter cartidge to trap the smaller debris. Every 2,000 - 3,000 miles the oil should be changed, the filter replaced, and the screen cleaned.

It’s very important that screen be removed and inspected for debris at each oil change. Some dealers don't do it, explaining that the blockage to flow is small - so don’t worry. But even if it is checked, the early warning sign of particles collecting on the screen is often ignored. The most common rationale being that the filter screen captures particles of aluminum remaining from the machining process, so seeing them shouldn’t necessarily be cause for alarm. At your first couple of oil changes this argument has merit, but if you see particles at subsequent changes you should investigate further.

In any event, change your own oil, or be there as it’s changed to see for yourself.

As most of you know by now, there are two problems common to Ducatis that can be identified by, and diagnosed by the particles they deposit on the filter screen.

The first problem is a design flaw in the pre-2000 model-year bikes that have an aluminum crankshaft oil gallery plug that can loosen and back-out. In doing so, the rotation of the crankshaft will machine the plug down until the plug eventually comes out and the engine experiences a catastrophic loss of oil pressure that destroys the main bearings (among other things.) The aluminum particles will end-up on the filter screen.

The second problem is the design problem with the chrome plating flaking-off the cam-contacting surface of the rocker arms. The sure way to know if you have rocker problems is to pull the cams and look, but your dealer won't do this unless you authorize an additional labor charge. Chrome particles on the filter screen will give you a good reason to spend the money to have them do this.

Fine debris stuck to the magnet on the drain plug is from normal wear and no cause for concern. Chrome and aluminum are non-magnetic so they don’t attach themselves to the magnet on the drain plug.

So how do you tell which you have - chrome or aluminum particles on your filter screen? Here’s a simple test.

Draw a small amount of battery acid and put the particles in it. Battery acid is dilute sulfuric acid, so when you add chromium to it you’ll get a release of hydrogen bubbles and the chromium will turn the darker violet color of chromium sulfate. Aluminum doesn’t react this way.

For you chemistry majors:

2Cr + 3H2SO4 > Cr2 [SO4]3 + 3H2


So, if you do it, you get to see the early warning signs of transmission damage or the crank oil gallery plug backing out.

[DBD34GS]

Ya know, Shazaam, you're kinda like the Kevin Cameron of Ducati.ms. In the same way as Mr. Cameron, you make some pretty complex issues easy to understand. I come here every day to learn something. Your contributions are greatly appreciated!

[CarpeDNA]

I had noticed on my 1998 748 that the oil light would flicker when the engine was hot and I came to a stop. I was sure there was a problem with some wiring because I bought the bike used after it had sat for quite some time about a year ago. It was taken to a track day and after a couple of high speed straights it lost power, made a knocking sound, and sounded like it had "fluffy" exhaust.

The engine was taken apart and the main bearings from the front cylinder were pounded flat and distorted. When pressure was applied to the crankshaft and all the holes plugged it was found that there was a leak in that dang aluminum plug. The plug had been working its way out and rubbing against another bearing creating little spikes of aluminum which invariably find their way into hands. The connecting rods are out of spec and the crankshaft is out of spec.

The good news is that I will rebuild the engine with better components and put an 853 kit into it for my track bike!