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Sprocket/Gearing Recommendations

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#1 ·
Ducati Gearing Changes

There's been a number of questions posted recently about changing the final drive gear ratio, chain and sprocket selection, and replacing these components with lightweight aftermarket parts. This discussion is geared towards superbikes, but has general application to all late-model Ducatis. It's probably more than you wanted to know now, but it may come in handy at some point.

Overall Gearing

The relationship between engine speed and road speed is a combination of the transmission gear that you select, the primary gear ratio, and the final drive gear ratio.

Transmission Gear Ratios

Six individual gears are provided to give you control over the overall gearing. Which gear you select depends on your desired engine speed, road speed and acceleration requirements.

Primary Drive Gear Ratio

The primary drive gear ratio is selected by Ducati based on the the engine’s torque and power characteristics. It establishes the number of revolutions that the engine makes for every revolution of the output shaft that drives the front sprocket of the final drive.

Final Drive Gear Ratio

The final drive gear ratio is determined by the relative sizes of the front and rear sprockets. In short, the higher the gear ratio the lower the engine speed in any gear, for a given bike speed. The lower the ratio, the higher the engine speed.

You can lower the ratio by replacing the front sprocket with a smaller diameter gear having a lower number of teeth and/or replace the rear sprocket with a larger diameter one having a larger number of teeth.

Any final drive ratio represents a trade-off between acceleration and gear range: the lower the ratio, the quicker the acceleration and the narrower the range of speed for any one gear. Consequently, a lower final-drive ratio means that while the bike scats aggressively in any gear, it requires a more shifting because the gear range is so narrow. Add to that a closely-spaced set of transmission gears and you have a bike that requires more fiddling with gear selection to stay on the torque curve.

You can expect to need different gearing for different tracks. The problem is that people here will suggest sprocket sizes to you that can only be used as a starting point. Gear selection is very dependent upon your style of riding.

In general, you would like to have a final drive gearing that allows you to hit the peak horsepower rpm at least one place on a given track. Otherwise, you’re not using all the gears in your transmission and aren’t taking advantage of the closer-spacing between the higher gears. (Daytona is an obvious exception because gearing for the high speed oval section will result in overgearing for the infield sections. This also illustrates the need to select a compromise gearing that doesn’t permit the maximum top speed but gives better drive out of the corners.)

So, you also need to find a final drive gear ratio that will minimize your number of gear changes and still place you at engine speeds that give you the best drive out of the corners. You need to build power quickly, sometimes at the slight expense of outright top speed in the straights. The fastest lap times are not so much controlled by top speed as they are by getting from one corner to the next as quickly as possible.

Lower gearing usually means more gear changes that lower your lap times. Sometimes you just can’t shift mid-corner, so you go in slower in a lower gear which allows you to come out harder. It is always a trade-off between gear selection and riding technique.

Sprockets

Ducati decides what front and rear sprocket sizes to install on each model depending upon a number of objectives and constraints. The standard gear ratio is a compromise that considers fuel economy, performance, and the need to meet environmental laws that limit exhaust gas emissions.

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Notice from the table that 996's are geared unusually high, probably the highest of any Ducati model. The high gearing is the result of using the unique combination of the standard gearbox plus the 1:84 primary gear ratio. So sprockets that work well for 916's and 998's are still too high for 996's.

Tales of the Front Sprocket

One of the easiest performance changes that a new owner can make is to lower the final drive gear ratio by changing the sprockets. The stock gearing is selected to enable Ducati to reduce exhaust emmisions, but is simply too high for most road use.

Ducati bike models have a wide range of torque output and the size of the chain and Ducati’s selection of sprockets reflect this range of outputs. All Ducati current models, except the 748 and 749, come with 15-tooth front sprockets. The more powerfull 749R is 15T.

The 748 and 749 series (with the exception of the 749R) all have torque outputs below the 78Nm of the original 916, so they are supplied with 14-tooth front sprockets. The 748’s got 520 chains.

The 749’s get 525 chains, probably more for parts standardization than for strength. I remember from the product introduction that that was one of the major design objectives of the new models.

Starting with the higher torque 916-series (and 749R), and continuing with the 996, 998 and 999, the factory moved to a 15-tooth front sprocket and a 525 chain. Why? Because more torque means more chain tension and a 15-tooth front sprocket lowers the tension in the chain by seven percent. A 525 chain has a tensile strength that’s ten percent higher. So you get an overall 17 percent stronger setup.

Still-higher torque SP, SPS, R and Corsa models output over 100Nm so how do they get away with 14-tooth sprckets and light-weight 520 chains? That’s easy. Once you get over a certain torque level (for a given weight bike) the bike will wheelie before the chain tension exceeds it’s strength limits. At least for awhile, chains on these bikes don’t usually see 15,000 miles of service.

So, what does this tell us about changing our final drive components. Four things.

First, as a general rule, it’s better to increase the rear sprocket size to avoid the higher chain tension resulting from a smaller front sprocket. Changing from a 14-tooth front to a 13-tooth front, for example, increases chain tension even more (9 percent) than a shift from a shift from a 15 to a 14-tooth.

Second, the heavier the bike, the higher the chain tension needed to make it wheelie and the higher the maximum chain tension it will experience. So, a 680 pound 916-plus-rider will generate a higher chain tension than (say) a lightweight Corsa-plus-jockey or even a Suzuki GS-X. When a chain under tension elongates one percent, it needs replacement. Frequently for a Corsa bike.

Three, combining a change to a smaller front sprocket with a change from a 525 to a 520 chain on a higher-torque model Ducati will significantly weaken the final drive load capacity. Reports of chain failures are common enough, so it may not be wise to ignore this point for the sake of saving 275 grams of chain weight.

Four, there’s a practical limit on the size of the front sprocket. You end up carrying higher loads with fewer teeth. No manufacturer puts a sprocket smaller than 14-teeth on a bike with a torque output of a Ducati.

Note: Ducati uses a eccentric to adjust the chain tension on some models so remember to measure your rear ride height BEFORE you change your rear sprocket so you can later raise your ride height back to where it was after the change.
 
#2 ·
i have a couple of questions in regards to this article:

i was looking into the 520 chain conversion for my 05 999, it currently has the stock gearing of 15 f and 36 r and i wanted to lower the front to a 14 tooth rather than raising the back 2-3 teeth, it seems to me if i left the front alone and put more teeth on the back the chain would need to be longer and offset my weight savings....my original idea was to put a 14t drilled front sprocket and a 36 or 37 tooth aluminum rear with the rk 520gxw chain, has anybody had any problems with that set-up?

thanks
jon
 
#5 ·
I don't think it is worth the risk to downgrade to a 520 chain for a street-use bike. The weight saving will be inconsequential, and will be risky if you go down a tooth on the front sprocket. Doing so increases the torque about 7% and the 520 is about 10% less strong, for a net decrease in safety factor of 17%. Too much for me to risk on an few-thousand-dollar engine case, if you break a chain.....
 
#13 ·
Wear

Here's an example that will help you to understand how sprocket selection affects chain and sprocket wear:

14-Tooth vs. 15-Tooth Front Sprocket Wear

For (say) a 96-link chain ...

A 15-tooth front sprocket will contact the same chain link every 32 revolutions. 15 x 32 = 480 links Ă·96 = every 5 chain revolutions.

A 14-tooth front sprocket will contact the same chain link every 48 revolutions. 14 x 48 = 672 Ă·96 = every 7 chain revolutions.

With the same rear sprocket and at the same road speed, the 14-tooth sprocket and the 15-tooth sprocket both contact the same number of chain links per unit time.

So for example, for every 35 chain revolutions, the 15 tooth sprocket contacts the same link 7 times and the 14-tooth sprocket contacts the same link 5 times.

If we assume that there is a defect on one of the front sprocket teeth (or a particular chain link) that can cause abnormal wear to the same chain link (or sprocket tooth) when contacted over and over again, the 14-tooth sprocket would actually result in (7-5)/7 = 29% LESS defect-related wear than a 15-tooth sprocket.

However, for the same 35 chain revolutions, the 15-tooth sprocket rotates 224 times and the 14-tooth sprocket rotates 240 times so the 14 tooth sprocket (and the chain) would see (240-224)/240 = 7% MORE continuous wear than a 15-tooth sprocket.
 
#14 ·
If we assume that there is a defect on one of the front sprocket teeth (or a particular chain link) that can cause abnormal wear to the same chain link (or sprocket tooth) when contacted over and over again.....
AHHHH, makes sense. I just graduated from engineerin' school, so my default assumption set is:

1. Everything's perfect
2. The answer should be a round number
3. Write down any equation you can remember. Partial credit is your friend.

thanks shazaam!
 
#19 ·
You're right, the sprocket radius affects chain tension for a given driving torque.

Circumference = 2*pi*radius

Sprocket circumference is directly proportional to the number of teeth along it.

So sprocket radius IS directly proportional (linearly related) to the number of sprocket teeth.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Also, for the same given rear sprocket size, a smaller front should provide less engine braking than a larger one, because the lever arm (front sprocket radius) is smaller with the smaller sprocket. I think also that a larger rear sprocket makes for less engine braking as well, because the larger radius of the rear sprocket makes it harder to turn the same size front sprocket. I could be wrong though... It's hard for me to work this in my brain...

I think what I'm trying to say is that a smaller front or a larger rear would make it more likely that the rear wheel would skid under severe engine braking, but of course it would also mean that for the same wheel speed, the engine would spin faster for a smaller front or a larger rear, thus giving more engine braking.
 
#25 ·
So in this subject that turned way to technical I have to say that it seams that people are worried that there chains will break, wear out super fast or other catastrophic failures...

How many have actually blown a chain apart? :confused:

And it looks like the wear limit on 14 teeth and 520 chains is about 15000 miles, which is a rather unusually high amount of miles for most Ducatis anyway...

Aaaand when it all is worn out we're talking about $400-500 to replace it all, worst case scenario, and that's rather small money in the scheme of owning one of our bikes.

So what I like to know is; What is the recommended gearing for my -05 S4R?
The tables listed is for superbikes only but I do have the 996 engine...

Also a related question that is of very much interest in the whole discussion, whats the revlimiter on a Monster like mine? Completely impossible to find the info anywhere...
 
#27 ·
For a 749 base model, on the table posted it is recommended a 43t with a 100 link chain, would it be strictly necessary to change to a longer chain or can I stay with the stock 96??

While using the table on the gearingcommander.com it doesnt say anything about longer chains, but I would like a different opinions before i change the sprocket

This is a great thread btw, although all the technical talk and equations and PI brought some school nightmares :D

Cheers
 
#28 ·
You need the longer chain length to wrap around the larger diameter sprocket having four additional teeth. Even if the chain tension adjustment slot range could acommodate the stock chain, you'd end up shortening the wheelbase of the bike which will spoil it's handling and high-speed stability.
 
#29 ·
I found a new Vortex 38 tooth rear sprocket on clearance and then ordered a 14 tooth front sprocket. Previously I heard it was better to add two teeth in the back as opposed to dropping one tooth in the front. When I had my 916 I went with a 14 tooth front and immediately noticed the positive difference in terms of pick up from a stop, increased acceleration off the line which meant more confident shifting and gear changes. I liked the change a lot. I only hammered the bike at track days and some aggressive street riding, but generally I was a mello rider, avoiding the rev limiter. The 999R took the 916's place last year and I'm going to put even less miles and less aggressive riding on it so I don't think the ratio of 14/38 will amount to anything negative, right?

The removal and install of the sprockets seems pretty straight forward. I'll do some research and ask around before tackling it. With the new ratios, would I require a new chain? You would think its kind of a wash or close enough to one to keep the chain, the bike has only 2.5K miles on it.

I have some flexibility here. If need be I can just install the rear 38 tooth and leave the front sprocket at 15 if its recommended.
 
#30 ·
If need be I can just install the rear 38 tooth and leave the front sprocket at 15 if its recommended.
You may need a new chain to do that (or maybe not, check the wheel clearance between tire and swingarm).

14/38 will fit with the stock chain, as will 14/39, which is what I had on my 999R until I put the BSTs on, at which point I went to 15/43 and a longer chain, as the 40T rear that came with the BSTs would not fit with the OEM chain.

Tom
 
#31 · (Edited)
question about chain lengths...
in practice - how does one go about changing between final drive ratios when the recommended chain lengths are different. For example, I am running 14/38 with 94 links (recommended length). If I want to try 14/40 (recommended 96 links), can I get by with my existing 94 links?

If not, do I have to buy a whole new chain?
Or, can I add 2 links to my existing chain using a 2nd master link (and a donor inner link)?
Should I have kept 96 links and ran 14/38 with 96 links?

Basically, how is this done in practice?
 
#32 ·
Chain Length, Wheelbase and Ride Height

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The basic problem here is that Ducati's eccentric adjuster raises the rear ride height as the chain length (and wheelbase) gets shortened. This table will help you to understand this.

Image


Often a shorter (than recommended) chain length will fit, but the shorter chain then results in a shorter wheelbase and a higher rear ride height. A shorter wheelbase results in less stability at high speeds and a raised ride height changes the turn-in behavior of the bike. Further, the superbikes are delivered with the rear ride height adjuster rod at it shortest length which often prevents you from lowering the rear ride height back to the stock setting in this situation.
 
#33 ·
Shazam said:
the superbikes are delivered with the rear ride height adjuster rod at it shortest length which often prevents you from lowering the rear ride height back to the stock setting in this situation.
Which is fine, as OEM is generally like driving a truck!

My ST2 has the rear tire on the ground while on the center stand.

My LeMans and SS have eccenrtric bearings to make a steeper steering angle.

My 999R is set to steep.

My other LeMans has an Earles fork with 13" wheels.

Steeper is better.

Tom
 
#34 ·
shazam! as always, very useful info mate.

It sounds like while different size chains may in some cases mechanically fit, they alter the handling of the bike (which may or may not be preferred).

Wondering if you might clarify. When i read the charts, the chart on page one says 94 links is recommended for 14/38, but when I read the chart above, it says 96 links is recommended for 14/38.

which is it?

and to the original question - how do you guys go about changing from 94 to 96 links and back as you try different sockets? 2 chains? extra links? :confused:
 
#35 ·
14/38 is stock Ducati gearing for a 748 and this combo results in a shorter wheelbase than a stock 916 (15/36 94-link) because the swingarm lengths are the same. I recommend changing a 748 to 14/40 96-links that gives better use of the higher-revving engine and a longer wheelbase for high speed stability. Just remember to measure the rear ride height before changes and then increase the rear ride height adjuster rod length to compensate for the new eccentric position.