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Old Aug 19th, 2007, 8:43 am   #1 (permalink)
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Chain Cleaning, Waxing and WD-40

Is WD-40 safe to use on your chain?

Yes, All motorcycle chains currently being manufactured use Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber for their o-rings and x-rings, and all these manufacturers recommend kerosene as a cleaner.

Here's the formulation of WD-40:

80% Stoddard Solvent (that is similar to kerosene)
20% light lubricating oil, and a bit of fragrance.

Here's the compatibility of Stoddard Solvent with rubbers and plastics:

Good Compatibility (OK for both static and dynamic seals)
Buna-N (Nitrile)
Chemraz
Epichlorohydrin
Fluorocarbon
Fluorosilicone
Kalrez
Nitrile, hydrogenated
Polyacrylate
Teflon, virgin

Mixed Compatibility (OK for static seals, but not for dynamic seals)
Neoprene
Vamac

Fair Compatibility (OK for some static seals)
Polysulfide
Polyurethane, millable

Poor Compatibility
Butyl
Ethylene-Propylene
Hypalon
Natural rubber
Silicone
Styrene Butadiene

Consequently, WD-40 is safe and effective as a chain cleaner and corrosion inhibitor.

Link:

http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...dard%20Solvent

If you clean with a soft brush and WD-40, and plan to follow-up with a chain lube, you can reduce chain lube sling-off if you first remove the oil residue that WD-40 leaves. This residue seems to prevent some chain lube formulations from sticking well to the chain.

Should I also use a chain lube afterwards?

The answer depends on whether external chain lubrication is beneficial for a chain with internal grease sealed with o-rings, and perhaps how often you clean your chain.

One school-of-thought believes that no additional lubrication is needed. The other believes that the sprocket and chain surfaces that do not have permanent grease also need to be lubricated.

The chain manufacturers tell us that also lubricating the chain and sprocket surfaces will extend the life of these components. But a chain lube will sling-off unless designed to stick to the chain, so it needs to stay tacky. Consequently, it will also attract grit and road debris that, in turn, will accelerate wear faster than if you just have a clean unlubricated chain. Chain lube will also reduce power losses due to friction and shed water that leads to rust (and wear). If you live in a wet climate, you should probably use chain lube to prevent rust.

A chain newly-cleaned with WD-40 will have a coat of light oil that will effectively displace water and reduce surface corrosion of the links. It's a low viscosity oil so any excess will sling off easily, but will attract very little grit - much less that any chain lube - and it will have the same rolling friction as a number of chain lubes on the market.

WD-40, used as a one-step cleaner and lubricant is sufficient. Because it is a light oil, some fling-off will occur, so any excess should be wiped-off. USED REGULARLY, it provides good corrosion protection, low (but not the lowest) rolling resistance, and attracts less road grit than waxy chain lubes. So your chain stays very clean.

If you aren't inclined to clean and lube your chain regularly, or often ride in wet conditions that promote corrosion, there are chain lubes on the market that are designed to stick to your chain to resist fling-off and provide longer-lasting corrosion protection. Some remain tacky and attract grit, some stay slippery to the touch. All of them need to cleaned off and renewed at some point.

If you’ve decided to use chain lube after cleaning your chain, then it’s best to use straight kerosene as your cleaner because the light oil that WD-40 contains will make it difficult for the chain lube to stay attached without flinging-off.
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Old Aug 19th, 2007, 12:04 pm   #2 (permalink)
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again- very beneficial posts Shazaam

i'll follow up by pointing that a rear stand will make the process an almost welcome bit of routine maintenance rather than a dreaded chore.
- eliminate chasing your bike in 3ft increments across your garage
- eliminate the slime-trail of crud & fresh lube on the shop floor
- get you into position more frequently to view wear on front & rear sprokets- grime on the shock coils & piston which WILL eventually cause seal failures
- encourage you to keep watch on chain tension
- turn an hour long cussing chore into a 10 minute good habbit

a good habbit that will extend the life of your chain, your sprokets, and quite possibly your person.

lastly- WD40 is a USDA approved cleaner & lubricant for equipment used in food processing. a little of it in your diet keeps things movings smoothly.
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Old Aug 19th, 2007, 1:36 pm   #3 (permalink)
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Thank you!

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Old Aug 19th, 2007, 2:39 pm   #4 (permalink)
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I used to use WD-40 before, and then apply the chain lube. However, I've stopped using the wd-40, and I only use the chain lube and a rag to take the dirt off it.

However, after reading this I'll continue using the wd-40. Thanks for the info.
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Old Aug 19th, 2007, 7:28 pm   #5 (permalink)
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plus, WD-40 is available anywhere, and is available in small-easy-to-carry cans. From your excellent post, Shazaam, it sounds like it would be perfect for the dry SouthWest. I'll give it a try on the new Monster I'll have in a week or so. Thanks!!
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Old Aug 19th, 2007, 8:49 pm   #6 (permalink)
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Don't forget to use a Grunge Brush with your kerosene wash. Also helps to have a piece of cardboard on hand to keep your wheel/tire clean.

Mad kudos for a great post Shazaam, and not just because it's exactly the way I clean my chain. I've never seen this particular info, and I had just recently been looking into waxes, or anything that would reduce fling. Guess I'll stand pat

One thing about a bike with a clean chain (esp. an older bike): It stands out. Never noticed it before, all my old bikes were shafties. But I remember looking at some pics of Joey Chitwood's ST (taken in his backyard, I think), and I was struck with the detailing -- especially how clean his chain and rear sprocket were.....I'm talkin' like new...

Maybe not the look for everybody, but it sure works for me.
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Old Mar 17th, 2009, 3:44 pm   #7 (permalink)
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Came across this article.

Quote:
Moral of the story is to not use WD-40 for cleaning motorcycle chains.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/

I just use motorcycle chain lube/cleaner and get it done with. they're like $10 or less like MFR. Metal Friction Reducer : cleaner and lube.
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Old Mar 19th, 2009, 6:18 pm   #8 (permalink)
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I got the MFR here: Took a day to ship from KS cost me $12 for a big can.

http://powersportequipment.com/



Info:
http://www.progoldmfr.com/
Review:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/


Attached Thumbnails
Chain Cleaning, Waxing and WD-40-pro_gold_mfr_chain_lube_detail.jpg  
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Old Mar 19th, 2009, 7:28 pm   #9 (permalink)
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I tried WD40 and spraycan lubes of various flavours, chain dried out far too quickly and chewed sprockets.
Now, in keeping with the retro theme of the Sportclassic, I'm using a rag soaked in engine oil, and follow up with a dry rag to take off the excess.
So far so good. Chain looks to be staying lubed for far longer. Sure you get a little fling off but I can live with that.
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Old Mar 20th, 2009, 7:16 pm   #10 (permalink)
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Cleaning Tub

I use kerosene to clean mine because I use Wax, but find it easy to do with a Water Jug. The bigger jugs you leave in the frig(square) I cut one side off leaving a 4" side and the back works as a back splash behind the chain when cleaning then add my kerosene to my container and then put the bike up on a rear stand and go to work cleaning.

The back splash also keeps the kerosene off the rear tire! Last winter kerosene is used for cleaning bike parts and chains..
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