748 Clutch Upgrade - "How To" and pics - Ducati.ms

HawkDucati · Nov 26th, 2006, 11:26 am

So I completed my clutch upgrade yesterday. WOW, what a difference. It's like having a new bike. Here's a brief write up on my experience. I ended up replacing the basket and friction plates with the 999R aluminum OEM gear purchased from Ducati (as suggested by duc 748...thanks again, btw). I also purchased the SS Springs, Pressure plate and cover from Speedymoto. The whole set up was just under $1k. If you want to save money, you can purchase the steel friction plates and basket, and then reuse the pressure plate and cover. That would bring the cost down to ~$400. Going with aluminum saves only 3.5lbs, btw. I had planned on reusing the PP and cover, but the damn bling bug bit me. I saw a new Sport 1000 with the same set up, and had to have it. I now want a Sport too!!

So my symptoms were pretty basic. The clutch would not allow me to launch unless RPM's were barely over stalling. I'd get a growling noise if I gave to many revs. Shifting into 2nd was always difficult. Throttle response was also not that great. The normal Duc clacking noise at idle was also overly excessive. Not a surprise seeing how worn the plate and basket teeth were. Notice the first pic. You can see between the basket and plate teeth. Like an 1/8" gap.

Would be great if one of the tech savvy guys would look this over and add or mod anything I've missed. I talked to the service guys at two Duc dealers, so I think I captured all the gotchas. I suggest you have the service manual on hand.

Step 1:
Make sure you have the bike on a sturdy stand (I have a Pitbull). Have all your tools ready.

Clutch cover allen
Clutch spring allen
Friction plate puller - I used a paint can opener (two would be ideal)
Hub nut - 32 mm
Motion Pro clutch hub vice grip tool ($39 at Cyclegear)
Breaker bar

Step 2:
As I removed the clutch cover bolts, I laid them out in a circle to ensure they went back in the same place.
Step 3:
Remove the springs. Once removed, pull the pressure plate straight out. The rod should come with it. That's okay. Once out, tap the rod out of the pressure plate bearing. You might have to give it a good wack. Just don't bend the rod.
Step 4:
Remove all the friction plates. As you remove them, stack them in the order you remove them. This will be a good guide when you install the new ones.
Step 5:
Remove the hub nut. Secure the clutch hub tool to the teeth of the hub ensuring the grips are seated properly in the hub teeth. I used the foot peg to keep it secure as I cranked on the hub nut. You will use the 32mm. It's obviously best to use an impact wrench, but I don't have one. Instead, I used a breaker bar. The nut is on with about 170lbs, so it'll take some doing to get loose. Once loose, remove the hub nut and washer. Then behind it you'll find the star washer and another piece containing a small pin. Stack all these exactly as you remove them. A good indicator (as suggested by Brendan at Munroe in SF) as to whether the hub is still good is the wear on the hub where the star washer sits. if the star washer has worn past the slightly elevated section of the hub and is chewing into the hub, you can either add another star washer, or replace the hub. If the hub wobbles at the slightest, then you need to do this. Mine was fine.
Step 6:
Remove the basket bolts. You can hold the basket with the hub tool if necessary. Break these loose (they have loctite). Once removed, I clean these thoroughly, as there was small amounts of rust. The basket will now remove easily.

New Stuff:
Basket, Friction plates, Pressure plate, Springs and cover.
Re-used:
Hub and assembly parts as well as basket bolts.

Reassembly:
Step 1:
Secure new basket with existing bolts making sure to use Loctite.
Step 2:
Reinstall the hub assembly. Again, make absolutely certain that pin is properly seated in the hole on the hub. Tighten the hub nut to 170lbs.
Step 3:
install friction plates exactly as you removed them.
Step 4:
install the Springs. On the pressure plate, you will see a grooved line in one of the spring housings. Make sure you line this up with the groove that is only on one of the hub towers. Not sure why, but everyone (including the manual says so). Lightly screw in all the Springs, then tighten them evenly. Once secured, do not tighten these beyond about 3-5lbs of pressure (basically wrist tight). You can snap the head off.
Step 5:
Install clutch cover.
Step 6:
Go ride and enjoy smooth shifting and vastly improved throttle response.

I hope this helps someone else in the similar situation I was in. That being lack of clear info as to what needs to be done. As a suggestion to the moderators. It would be great to have a section on this board that is specifically for Step by Step technical work like clutch replacement. That would separate helpful tips from the oil and opinion discussions. :-) Audiworld.com does this well.

danielspdx · Nov 26th, 2006, 12:47 pm

Here's an excellent step-by-step of how to replace a clutch.

http://www.sportbikes.com/wwwthreads...&Number=604702

DEZMO · Nov 26th, 2006, 3:47 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by HawkDucati

As a suggestion to the moderators. It would be great to have a section on this board that is specifically for Step by Step technical work like clutch replacement. That would separate helpful tips from the oil and opinion discussions. :-) Audiworld.com does this well.

We do have a section, it's called "Hall of Wisdom"

**duc_748** · Nov 26th, 2006, 6:00 pm

dang, you had to go and get the bling speedymoto pressure plate! wow does that look dope! I just kept my stock one, and bought the speedmoto stainless springs. I wish I had the $ to get the bling effect, but then again, I spend all my money on track days!

Looks great!

**duc_748** · Nov 26th, 2006, 6:01 pm

Did you notice the quicker spin up of the engine with the lighter clutch? Its much better than stock!

**amullo** · Nov 27th, 2006, 6:21 am

I´m gonna tow this over to the Hall of Wisdom. A very good write-up!

//amullo
moderator

pdittay · Nov 30th, 2006, 11:19 am

Great tech tip !!!
I do have a question however... as I'm changing my springs, they are rustedfrom running a vented clutch cover, I just wanted to know if s=you really suggest that I purchase a torque wrench (as I don't have one) or am I being overly cautious ?

In recap, I make sure the tip of the srping is neatly set in the grove and then when there is tension, I tighten a half turn ?

Thanks!

HawkDucati · Dec 1st, 2006, 9:03 am

You certainly can use a torque wrench to make sure you don't overtighten past 3-5lbs, but it's not necessary. Especially if you don't have one on hand. Once you have them evenly seated, give them a firm snug by hand (meaning not using a ratchet).

I am assuming you noticed the comment about lining up the grooves on the hub tower and pressure plate.

pusher748 · Jan 4th, 2007, 8:41 pm

Did you have a air gun to torque the center nut back on or what?

mad · Jan 5th, 2007, 8:36 am

Quote:

Originally Posted by pusher748

Did you have a air gun to torque the center nut back on or what?

If you choose to remove the basket, it's best to airgun the six outer bolts off but, personally, I just use a breaker bar for the center nut. Everything needs to be torque wrenched to spec back into place, including the large, center nut. If not doing the basket itself, then no need to touch the center nut for all the other clutch work. In any case, all basket work almost requires a basket holder type tool.