» Site Navigation |
|
»
»
»
» Motorcycle Forums
|
» Buyers Guide |
|
|
» Our Partners |
|
|
|
 |
 |
Oct 28th, 2006, 6:03 pm
|
#1 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Greater Worcester Area, Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 1,706
|
ST_ Rear Directional Relocation
Pannier brackets on, off, or bags on or off, this mod will work with any ST2, ST3, or ST4:
I was fed up with the “antler look” when the bags were removed from the ST…so…
Wanting to use the OEM directionals, and due to the space needed, one has to think inside the box this time. I made the decision to recess the lights into the fender, rather than making wedges (wedges would make the directionals longer), or having to modify the OEM lights. With that said, some plastics bend fairly easily, and this is similar to ABS plastic. So after carefully measuring and making a sketch of the base of the turn signal, I proceeded by slicing the fender in the shape of a "C" on the left side, (and backwards "C" on the other side). This series of 3 cuts makes a "flap" that can bend inwards. Then I measured the inside distance, and ended up using a piece of copper tubing (because I knew that using a tubing cutter, the ends would be very parallel, the copper is fairly rot-proof, and 'cuz I had a scrap piece).
If you’re clever and careful, one of the pieces that get cut off the end of the brackets can be used instead of the copper tubing—now that’s really recycling!
This inside distance isn't very critical, unless you go way too short.
Then, I selected a piece of threaded rod with shake-proof nuts and appropriate flat washers. This said, you'll need to stay small with these, because you need to get a socket over the nuts, and it's in a recessed area of the light's base. I think I used #10 nuts & rod. Oh my, a non-metric part on my bike!
And, if I remember right, I drilled the 2 holes on ea. side PRIOR to completing the cuts, so that the material would not flex under the drill's pressure. It only took me one evening to do this...about 3 hours max. Keep in mind, I never removed the fender or brackets!
I'm very happy w/ the looks, location and overall results.
__________________
Stick
Try this home-cure-all: Shove a DUC between your legs.
Present DUC: 2003 ST4S Yellow!
Past DUCs: 1998 ST2, 1981 500SL Pantah, 1985 MHR Mille, 1987 Paso Limited, 1995 916 mono
Other brands (past):
1978 BMW R100RS Motosport, 1978 R100S, 1981 Moto Guzzi V50 Monza (wife's bike), and a long list of Hondasakizukis
|
|
|
|
Sponsored Links
|
Advertisement
|
|
Oct 29th, 2006, 6:40 am
|
#2 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 139
|
Very nice! I like it!
|
|
|
Oct 29th, 2006, 10:48 pm
|
#3 (permalink)
|
|
Still needs a life.
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Edmonds (near Seattle), WA, USA
Posts: 9,119
|
It looks as though the bag could have been made a little larger had Ducati used your "close" in turn signal design.
__________________
Bill Anderson & Darkwing Duc (06-ST3s, black) Edmonds, WA. USA
|
|
|
Oct 30th, 2006, 9:26 pm
|
#4 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Long Beach, CA, USA
Posts: 162
|
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Bill_Anderson
It looks as though the bag could have been made a little larger had Ducati used your "close" in turn signal design.
|
I think regulations are 9" between turn signal lamps on the rear, minimum. Don't know if this makes it or not.
__________________
'05 Ducati MTS 1000S <-'02 Ducati ST4S<-'77 BMW R100RS<-'83 Yamaha RZ350<-'77 Yamaha RD400<-'75 Yamaha RS100
|
|
|
Oct 31st, 2006, 7:52 pm
|
#5 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Greater Worcester Area, Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 1,706
|
I was told 8". And it doesn't quite make that. But it's a far cry better than some of the excuses for lights that some people use!
__________________
Stick
Try this home-cure-all: Shove a DUC between your legs.
Present DUC: 2003 ST4S Yellow!
Past DUCs: 1998 ST2, 1981 500SL Pantah, 1985 MHR Mille, 1987 Paso Limited, 1995 916 mono
Other brands (past):
1978 BMW R100RS Motosport, 1978 R100S, 1981 Moto Guzzi V50 Monza (wife's bike), and a long list of Hondasakizukis
|
|
|
Oct 31st, 2006, 8:45 pm
|
#6 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Long Beach, CA, USA
Posts: 162
|
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Stick
I was told 8". And it doesn't quite make that. But it's a far cry better than some of the excuses for lights that some people use!
|
You might be right, I can't remember exactly, but I'm sure that's why they don't do it that way at the factory.
__________________
'05 Ducati MTS 1000S <-'02 Ducati ST4S<-'77 BMW R100RS<-'83 Yamaha RZ350<-'77 Yamaha RD400<-'75 Yamaha RS100
|
|
|
Nov 20th, 2006, 8:54 am
|
#7 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Charlotte, NC,
Posts: 175
|
So after carefully measuring and making a sketch of the base of the turn signal, I proceeded by slicing the fender in the shape of a "C" on the left side, (and backwards "C" on the other side). This series of 3 cuts makes a "flap" that can bend inwards. Then I measured the inside distance, and ended up using a piece of copper tubing (because I knew that using a tubing cutter, the ends would be very parallel, the copper is fairly rot-proof, and 'cuz I had a scrap piece).
If you’re clever and careful, one of the pieces that get cut off the end of the brackets can be used instead of the copper tubing—now that’s really recycling!
This inside distance isn't very critical, unless you go way too short.
Then, I selected a piece of threaded rod with shake-proof nuts and appropriate flat washers. This said, you'll need to stay small with these, because you need to get a socket over the nuts, and it's in a recessed area of the light's base. I think I used #10 nuts & rod. Oh my, a non-metric part on my bike!
Help me understand the purpose of all this? Is this to reinforce the fender from the inside?
I am interested in doing this.
Thanks
|
|
|
Nov 23rd, 2006, 11:12 pm
|
#8 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Greater Worcester Area, Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 1,706
|
Hi JB, I replied to your PM. Yes, the copper tubing is there to act as a foundation for both lights to be secured to via the threaded rod and nuts.
|
|
|
Nov 3rd, 2007, 6:39 pm
|
#9 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Greater Worcester Area, Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 1,706
|
Someone asked me about photos for the copper tubing, so here are some added/updated pics:
__________________
Stick
Try this home-cure-all: Shove a DUC between your legs.
Present DUC: 2003 ST4S Yellow!
Past DUCs: 1998 ST2, 1981 500SL Pantah, 1985 MHR Mille, 1987 Paso Limited, 1995 916 mono
Other brands (past):
1978 BMW R100RS Motosport, 1978 R100S, 1981 Moto Guzzi V50 Monza (wife's bike), and a long list of Hondasakizukis
|
|
|
Nov 4th, 2007, 8:42 am
|
#10 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Sleepy Leafy South Birmingham, , England
Posts: 1,783
|
Nice job Stick. I think the Desmotimes fender eliminator performs the same function.
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links |
Advertisement
|
|
 |
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|