Sport1000 OEM Clipons (tall) Bolt stripped - Page 2 - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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Old Mar 12th, 2012, 10:19 pm   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks JC,

Any more info on the helicoil or twinserta approach would be much appreciated

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Old Mar 12th, 2012, 10:57 pm   #12 (permalink)
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I always like Helicoil
BUT you are in a tight spot as the clipons block the hole you need access to
Google or Bing
thread inserts for aluminum
and this should help you with making the right decision
or
If you have a machine shop or welder in your area that likes to work on MC parts they can help hands on for you. This could be a better solution as they may have something better, simpler and cheaper for your particular dilemma

JC
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Thanks JC,

Any more info on the helicoil or twinserta approach would be much appreciated

Tmnstr


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Old Mar 12th, 2012, 11:03 pm   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks again JC

I will look into the options locally and let you know the course I end up traveling.

Cheers,

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Old Mar 12th, 2012, 11:14 pm   #14 (permalink)
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I always felt like the torque spec was too high on those risers. I always used a torque wrench, but would chicken out every time before it clicked - it just seemed like too much for that screw.

Anyway, this really doesn't seem like a big problem. I'll bet you could even just drill and tap it for a screw one size larger. Do both sides if you are anal....

But I would definitely try the thread insert first. If it holds torque, it is fine! And if you screw it up, it is only a $200 mistake. Chicken feed in the world of Ducati ownership.
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Old Mar 13th, 2012, 4:33 pm   #15 (permalink)
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Update: picked up a helicoil kit and fixed the clipon handlebar threads (inside bolt threads). Still a little skeptical, though, because I could only torque the left-hand clipon bolts to 19-20NM (not up to the factory 24NM). Everything seems solid but I'm wondering if I should be concerned that they wouldn't torque to spec?

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Old Mar 13th, 2012, 5:38 pm   #16 (permalink)
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Put a little anti seize or Teflon grease on the threads

Make sure you tighten in alternate increments

If it does not move your OK


Good job. Pat yourself on the back and have a beverage of your choice


Quote:
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Update: picked up a helicoil kit and fixed the clipon handlebar threads (inside bolt threads). Still a little skeptical, though, because I could only torque the left-hand clipon bolts to 19-20NM (not up to the factory 24NM). Everything seems solid but I'm wondering if I should be concerned that they wouldn't torque to spec?

Tmnstr


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Old Mar 13th, 2012, 5:52 pm   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks JC

I used moly-based assembly lube per the factory recommendation. Strange thing though, the factory bolts are prone to bending/breaking, so I swapped them for some SS bolts (same size/pitch). When I tried torqueing the new SS bolts I noticed tiny slivers of aluminum peeling off the clipons where they contact the bolt. And, of course, I had one of the threads strip out completely, hence the helicoil repair. It seems like the factory bolts/clipon design should be better engineered for such an important "performance" part. Oh well. I guess that's why Speedymoto, and others, are able to make a living selling better versions

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Old Mar 13th, 2012, 6:14 pm   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tmnstr View Post
Thanks JC

I used moly-based assembly lube per the factory recommendation. Strange thing though, the factory bolts are prone to bending/breaking, so I swapped them for some SS bolts (same size/pitch). When I tried torqueing the new SS bolts I noticed tiny slivers of aluminum peeling off the clipons where they contact the bolt. And, of course, I had one of the threads strip out completely, hence the helicoil repair. It seems like the factory bolts/clipon design should be better engineered for such an important "performance" part. Oh well. I guess that's why Speedymoto, and others, are able to make a living selling better versions

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I believe torque ratings are specific to the materials of both the fastener and the piece being fastened, so if you were to change the bolts to stainless, but the OEM were a softer metal, then the manufacturer's torque would go out the window (and could explain why you ended up stripping them). I could be talking out of my ass here though.
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Old Mar 13th, 2012, 6:39 pm   #19 (permalink)
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I was thinking the same thing. That's why I'm hoping the slightly lower torque setting will be ok.


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