Tidy up the wirings - Ducati.ms

JSAL77 · Jan 26th, 2012, 8:24 am

Hi Everyone,
Has anyone attempted to clean up the cluttered wiring of an SC?
I am looking for few easy ways to clean up the front
Thanks,
Jean

**motolectric** · Jan 26th, 2012, 2:25 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSAL77

Hi Everyone,
Has anyone attempted to clean up the cluttered wiring of an SC?
I am looking for few easy ways to clean up the front
Thanks,
Jean

On the HICAP Kits I offer a longer solenoid to starter lead which allows you to run the lead to the left and under the engine (the same path that Ducati used for the 750/900 Supersports).

I'm working with a SC owner to configure a new kit for those who want to move their battery up and under the seat.

Those are the only "cleanups" I know of.

I personally think it was a mistake in Ducatis thinking to try and mimic the "cobby" look of the wiring of the vintage bikes.

They didn't stay the course and go back to a points based ignition so I don't see why they went for the rough look on the wiring.

HTH

JSAL77 · Jan 27th, 2012, 3:38 am

I am also working on a housing to jam pack all the controllers and front lighting wires nicely behind the headlight...i think that will make a big difference.

I also would be interested in the batterly relocation kit...i think someone mentioned to me a smaller type of a battery which would make this possible.

Will look for the link...

1duckyboy · Jan 27th, 2012, 5:58 am

I've put a Ballistic LiFePO4 12-cell battery under the seat/cowl of my '06 Sport 1000. Relocated the voltage rec./reg. under the tray and mounted the computer on the old reg./rec. mounts. Had to cut about a square inch of the underseat tray to mount the computer. The battery is just laying in place now but I'll put in foam or wrap it in rubber strips (tire tube) and use stock battery strap to hold it down. Seat locks into place, no problem. Still haven't extended the battery cables to finish the job but now have the materials to do so, hopefully this weekend. Pics will be posted when finished.

Most, if not all, LiFePO4 motorcycle battery manufacturers recommend an 8-cell battery for our bikes but the 12-cell is still much smaller and lighter than the stock one should hold a charge capable of starting the bike more easily.

Monstyr · Jan 27th, 2012, 8:44 am

Let us know how you get on with your wire tidying.
I've only done a few minor mods with the visible wiring going across the beltside of the motor, while this isn't difficult it does need the heatshrink that hold a couple of the wires together to be cut open to allow rerouting.
I like to see how others tackle theirs, I dont think theres a single easy way to do a lot of cleaning up as I think the looms were made for ease of manufacture rather than aesthetic elegance.

Riderjeff · Jan 27th, 2012, 11:06 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by monstyr

i think the looms were made for ease of manufacture rather than aesthetic elegance.

+1

**motolectric** · Jan 28th, 2012, 2:46 am

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSAL77

I also would be interested in the batterly relocation kit...i think someone mentioned to me a smaller type of a battery which would make this possible.

Will look for the link...

The batteries that fit are the ones using LiFePO4 technology; Shorai, Ballistic and Anti-Gravity.

I sell the Shorai.

The other makes may also have models that will fit but I have not researched them for this application.

We're looking into whether the 18AH will fit. The 14 AH will for sure.

Since the LiFePO4 cells have issues with colder weather you need to go up 1-2 AH steps over what you would use in an AGM or Gel Cell.

So 14 AH is what a Yuasa would spec for a Sport Classic but I would recommend the 18 AH if it will fit (I'm pretty sure the 21 AH will not).

The reason you need to go up a notch or 2 is that when you pull the bike out of the garage and the ambient temp is say 65F, the cells inside the battery case are probably closer to the coldest it got the night before.

There are a few trade-offs we have to make for the smaller battery and lighter weight and spending more to go up in rated capability is one of them.

I will know more in a few days and will post here (as to whether the 18 or 21 AH Shorai will fit without issues with the seat).

Once we get it sorted out I will be announcing a relocation kit bundle where you get the 5 lead HICAP and a Shorai at a nice price.

The extra 2 leads are so you can get the OEM terminals to reach the battery terminals without modifying them (the leads will be short jumpers).

This will allow you to return the bike to box stock condition if you should someday go to sell it.

HTH

GiaGT1000 · Jan 28th, 2012, 4:08 am

Sounds interesting...

Air_Cooled_Nut · Jan 28th, 2012, 12:12 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by motolectric

...
The reason you need to go up a notch or 2 is that when you pull the bike out of the garage and the ambient temp is say 65F, the cells inside the battery case are probably closer to the coldest it got the night before...

I rode yesterday cuz it was sunny and dry. My riding started at 40F

It's amazing how 'out of shape' ones hand muscles get after not riding for a few months!

So yeah, having more amp hours would be my requirement for sure. Can never have too many.

For me, I would prefer to keep an upgraded battery in the stock location. If a greater A-hr battery can fit there (21? 20?), cool by me.