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Jan 18th, 2012, 12:01 pm
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#1 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA, USA
Posts: 11
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Oil cooler torque settings?
Well, long story short I've managed to destroy my oil cooler.
A related thread sort of describes the issue at hand, wherein the oil lines vibrate loose and bathe bike and rider in hot oil.. easily solved by retightening the lines.. only in my case, I suffered a "lapse in judgement" and mangled the soft aluminum oil cooler beyond all repair.
So.. a new cooler is on the way and now I ask, dear reader, what is the best way to install this delicate beastie and get those oil lines tight enough to not leak without damaging anything in the process?
Any torque values would be appreciated (I have downloaded the manual from Duc.nu but the only applicable setting I seem to find is "oil cooler nipple" which I don't think is the right one..)
Also, what, if any, would the proper thread-locking compound be to use in this case?
Thanks for any help!
'08 SC1000 biposto
Last edited by motorrad69; Jan 18th, 2012 at 12:31 pm.
Reason: added bike model
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Jan 18th, 2012, 3:45 pm
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#2 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cologne, NRW, Germany
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorrad69
Any torque values would be appreciated (I have downloaded the manual from Duc.nu but the only applicable setting I seem to find is "oil cooler nipple" which I don't think is the right one..)
Also, what, if any, would the proper thread-locking compound be to use in this case?
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Here is a screenshot my workshop manual. It's for the GT1000, but this shouldn't matter.
The torque is in Nm, of course - it's an European bike ... ;-). and the threads are in mm.
I tried to look in the US-section of the workshop manual, but it's still metric. I don't know which interesting units you would like to use ...
LOCK 1 means Loctite 222
HTH
JG
__________________
'09 GT 1000, living in Germany
Last edited by JensG; Jan 18th, 2012 at 3:51 pm.
Reason: no copyright violation
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Jan 24th, 2012, 5:08 pm
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#3 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA, USA
Posts: 11
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Many thanks, JensG!
This will help alot in getting the new one installed..
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Jan 25th, 2012, 3:31 pm
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#4 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,076
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Probably this is already 100% obvious...but just in case....
The important thing here is not so much the torque on the fitting - it is that you have a wrench on the hex on the cooler casing itself at the same time as you are tightening the oil line fitting. If you let the cooler itself take the torque as you tighten the fitting you stand a good chance of breaking the oil cooler. IOW, you need to use two wrenches, not one.
__________________
2000 750SSie (gone but not forgotten)
2006 Sport 1000 Track Bike. Yellow, cannister-ectomy (duh...), 14 / 41 gearing, DP ECU, Arrow 2-1 full system, Traxxion Dynamics fork springs and AK-20 cartridges, Penske 8983 rear shock, frame and axle sliders, Wasp PUK, Wasp TMSD, XT MiniLap timer, ugly 3-spoke Brembo wheels, Pirelli Superbike Pro Trackday slicks, Airtech track fairing, Shorei LiFePo 14, and a very subtle anti-bling clutch treatment...
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Jan 25th, 2012, 6:50 pm
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR, USA
Posts: 1,729
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+1 on YellowDuck's advice. I used the metric torque values and a wrench on the oil cooler side, no issues during or since
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Feb 10th, 2012, 1:11 pm
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#6 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA, USA
Posts: 11
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Thanks for the advice guys! Looks like I'll be doing this within the next week or so.
I imagine it's like an oil change: drain oil, (change filter), replace oil cooler, replace engine oil.. run bike a few times to get the oil in.. top off oil, done.
Anything I'm missing?
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Feb 10th, 2012, 2:56 pm
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR, USA
Posts: 1,729
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Pre-fill the filter before screwing it on ;-)
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