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Old Jan 9th, 2012, 3:34 pm   #1 (permalink)
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Shifting into neutral

I have been riding my forst sportclassic for a few days now and I find it a little difficult to find neutral. It takes me a couple times when stationary. It is relatively easy when moving. I also read the manual and it says "neutral with automatic return". Here it is:

The gearchange pedal has a central position N, with
automatic return, and two directions of movement:
downwards = push down on the pedal to engage 1st gear
and to shift down. At this point the N warning light on the
instrument panel will go off;
upwards= lift the pedal to engage 2nd gear and then 3rd, 4th,
5th and 6th gears.

Now what does "automatic return" mean and is there an easier way to find the neutral?

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 9th, 2012, 6:21 pm   #2 (permalink)
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Change your clutch fluid, bleed the line. Many times neutral is elusive because the clutch is not fully disengaged.
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Old Jan 9th, 2012, 6:29 pm   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cafesforlife View Post
. . . It takes me a couple times when stationary. It is relatively easy when moving. . .
This is typical. Engage neutral just prior to the bike stopping. Or, rock the bike back and forth while searching for neutral. A little movement often helps.

Also, what YMRacing says.
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Old Jan 9th, 2012, 6:41 pm   #4 (permalink)
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good advice from ncgt1000

....automatic return is referring to the shift lever returning to it's central
location after making each shift .
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Old Jan 9th, 2012, 6:51 pm   #5 (permalink)
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Ah, got it. So is everyone else with these bikes able to find neutral pretty easy?

Quote:
Originally Posted by super-single View Post
....automatic return is referring to the shift lever returning to it's central
location after making each shift .
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Old Jan 9th, 2012, 6:55 pm   #6 (permalink)
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Clutch fluid does look a little murky. It was changed 1000 miles ago. Does it get dirty so quickly? I have STM Billet clutch slave cylinder. I was told another full service isn't due till another 4000 miles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YMRacing View Post
Change your clutch fluid, bleed the line. Many times neutral is elusive because the clutch is not fully disengaged.
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Old Jan 9th, 2012, 7:41 pm   #7 (permalink)
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Yes, it's normal/typical for the fluid to look darkened.

I don't have any issues finding neutral.
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Old Jan 9th, 2012, 8:01 pm   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air_Cooled_Nut View Post
Yes, it's normal/typical for the fluid to look darkened.

I don't have any issues finding neutral.
+1. The clutch fluid gets dark quick. For a while I was changing mine every 500 miles or so, but finally just learned not to sweat it. Once or twice a year is usually sufficient unless you really put on the miles.

Finding neutral is pretty easy on mine, but did involve a little more of a learning curve to get the feel of it than some bikes I've had.
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Old Jan 9th, 2012, 9:47 pm   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air_Cooled_Nut View Post
Yes, it's normal/typical for the fluid to look darkened.

I don't have any issues finding neutral.
+2 ........the clutch hydraulic components move further than the bakes so there is more surface abrasion....I think. Brake fluid is cheap. I flush the brakes once a year and the clutch twice. No problem finding neutral coming to a stop. I occasionally find it between 3d and 4th but only driving hard out of a corner. A bit annoying!!
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Old Jan 10th, 2012, 8:38 am   #10 (permalink)
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Don't just change the fluid. Actively bleed it like you would brakes. You will not feel any real change at the lever, you'll just be looking to make sure all air bubbles are out of the system. Pay attention to the fluid level in that itty bitty reservoir!
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