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Old Jan 1st, 2012, 6:01 pm   #1 (permalink)
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Oil change question

I just changes the oil on my 2007 GT1000 (5600 miles)and got it a little too full. The oil goes to the top of the circle not between the two lines on the site glass. How big of a deal is this? Should I drain a little out or am I ok as is?
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Old Jan 1st, 2012, 6:31 pm   #2 (permalink)
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Oil Level

Too high = Too much crankcase pressure.
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Old Jan 1st, 2012, 6:37 pm   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rideserotta View Post
I just changes the oil on my 2007 GT1000 (5600 miles)and got it a little too full. The oil goes to the top of the circle not between the two lines on the site glass. How big of a deal is this? Should I drain a little out or am I ok as is?
Remove a bit. Bring it down to below the full. Better off a little low than a little too much. Hard on seals, blow by, etc.

Next time, fill the oil looking at the window, fill to the middle of the hi/low. Start the bike to fill the oil filter and cooler. Check it and add to 1/2 or 2/3 between hi/low.

If you run the bike at track days or are a really quick guy that runs at hi-rpms. 6-8k 1/2 between hi/low is plenty.

I'm sure that someone will chime in with the reasons...big pump, big pistons, lots of oil messing around in the crankcase.
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Old Jan 1st, 2012, 7:25 pm   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YMRacing View Post
Remove a bit. Bring it down to below the full. Better off a little low than a little too much. Hard on seals, blow by, etc.

Next time, fill the oil looking at the window, fill to the middle of the hi/low. Start the bike to fill the oil filter and cooler. Check it and add to 1/2 or 2/3 between hi/low.

If you run the bike at track days or are a really quick guy that runs at hi-rpms. 6-8k 1/2 between hi/low is plenty.

I'm sure that someone will chime in with the reasons...big pump, big pistons, lots of oil messing around in the crankcase.
Thanks. This may be a dumb question but oil should be checked with the engine NOT running, right?
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Old Jan 1st, 2012, 7:42 pm   #5 (permalink)
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Engine cold and not running. Did you start the motor after filling? If not , try starting it to fill the oil filter. The level may be OK.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2012, 1:40 am   #6 (permalink)
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Run it for a couple of minutes, then leave it for an hour to settle. If it is still too high, siphon some out with a piece of battery vent hose.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2012, 5:10 am   #7 (permalink)
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Just a thought: Did you change the oil/fill up with the bike on the side stand?

If the bike was leaning over when you filled up then it would have given a misleading sight level in the inspection window, once the bike is upright the true (overfilled) level would be revealed.

Some people use paddock stands during such tasks. I stick a block of wood under the sidestand to hold the bike pretty much upright when I am doing a quick oil level check.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2012, 6:01 am   #8 (permalink)
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Oil level

Quote:
Originally Posted by rideserotta View Post
I just changes the oil on my 2007 GT1000 (5600 miles)and got it a little too full. The oil goes to the top of the circle not between the two lines on the site glass. How big of a deal is this? Should I drain a little out or am I ok as is?
Really not much of a concern, if you can see the level in the window.

As the crankcase is vented to atmospheric pressure via the breather on the top of the crankcase, overfilling the crankcase will not result in higher crankcase pressures, or damage to seals, etc..

The problem with overfilling engine crankcases occurs when the level of the oil is so high that the crankshaft or big end of the connecting rod strikes the oil pooled in the bottom of the engine. If the rotating parts can constantly strike pooled oil, air can become entrained in the oil and as air is compressible, frothy oil will enter the lubrication system and can result in starved bearings and component failures. Raising the crankcase level to a point where frothing can occur will take more than the few cc's of oil you have inadvertently poured in.

The rationale for making sure the operator can see the level in the window is to ensure the level is not too low or too high. If you can see the oil level in the window, you are not at risk.

A good practice when changing oil is to fill the new filter with oil before spinning the filter onto the engine. This significantly reduces the time interval before the lubrication system develops full pressure.

On some bikes that take 15 or 20 seconds to develop oil pressure after an oil change, BMW boxers are in this category, I favor pulling the connectors off the fuel injectors and cranking the engine till the oil pressure light is extinguished. However, if one decides to pull the spark plugs and then crank an engine, always ground the high tension wires with dummy plugs secured to the engine as not to damage the ignition system.

Ciao,
Dick

Last edited by racasey; Jan 2nd, 2012 at 9:53 am.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2012, 6:10 am   #9 (permalink)
Check your air pressure!!!
 
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One way to remove some oil is to remove and drain the oil filter, then reinstall. I have done this when needed, don't ask!
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Old Jan 2nd, 2012, 6:17 am   #10 (permalink)
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If your bike takes less than the gallon of oil to fill , pour some out of the Gallon container into a clean container so you don't over fill.
then fill ,start up let it circulate for a bit then check it and add a little at a time...
I have loosened the DRAIN plug when oil has cooled down and let some drain, you don't have to pull the plug just loosen and let it dribble out slowly ...

Pay attention next time
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Last edited by MTScott2; Jan 2nd, 2012 at 10:07 am.
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