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Old Dec 12th, 2011, 6:47 am   #1 (permalink)
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Battery Saga Update

Hi guys,

Just to let you know how I got on with the whole battery saga... so far anyway.

As you know, Racing Batteries sent me 3 small Li Ion batteries to link up and distribute around my seat pan, to run my Duc instead of the heavy OEM unit, saving 2.2kg and cleaning up my lower subframe... What's not to love about that idea?

I had a few hassles with the first setup, either with the wiring linkups or the combined power not quite adding up to enough, so after a FOC replacement from RB (Thanks Calum) I've now installed the RB2400...



Room to spare!



I put the new unit under the seat on Friday. It took around half an hour of fiddling, but was as easy as any mod could ever be, and the bike fired into life instantly (although it was warm from riding). I was/am extremely happy with the quality of the RB unit and of course it save loads of space and weight, and the bike looks much better with a clean subframe.



However, the bike didn't start so easily this morning.

It's been left over the weekend outside in temps from 0 overnight to 8 degrees during the day (under a cover) - so just a couple of days of modest cold - and I didn't get to ride the bike more than about 3 or 4 town miles on Friday, so if the battery wasn't at optimum charge it may need to go on a trickle charge...?

...so, this morning, I just got one revolution of the engine, and then nothing. I pushed the bike out to bump start it, and gave it more goes, and suddenly she fired into life - but with me giving the throttle a twist - something I never usually do. I also noted that the automatic turnover feature wasn't working.

I'll put the bike on a trickle charge, plus I'll talk with Calum at RB again. I thought that Hoppy had a similar setup from RB with no troubles (?), and maybe an overnight trickle charge may solve all my woes, but any thoughts or advice please do let me know.

For the record, Calum at Racing Batteries has been brilliant and the guys at Spirit of the 70s use his batteries on everything.


Thanks.
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Old Dec 12th, 2011, 8:12 am   #2 (permalink)
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Not sure if this applies but if the battery is cold wasn't there the recommendation for these type of batteries about turning the bike to ON and letting the headlight draw current for a few seconds (up to 30?) to warm the battery up? Counter-intuitive for a standard lead-acid battery.
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Old Dec 12th, 2011, 8:32 am   #3 (permalink)
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I used Ballistic brand Li Ion batteries on multiple customers builds with no issues. The ones we use have a total of 8 cells in a unit. My understanding is they will only need a charge if they are completely drained. I had one customer state that it remedied the slow crank issue he has had on is Super Sport since the day he bought it....
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Old Dec 12th, 2011, 8:45 am   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah don't put it on a trickle charger. It's the cold weather that will do that, once the battery is warm it'll fire up.
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Old Dec 12th, 2011, 8:55 am   #5 (permalink)
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Hmmm. This warming-up stuff all makes sense. It eventually fired-up once it had been on for around 45 seconds while was I was bump starting it...

I also spoke with Calum at RB. He said that installing the battery, testing that it worked 3 or 4 times in the garage, then riding just half a mile home before leaving it in zero degrees for 2 nights wasn't exactly the optimum way to look after the limited charge these batteries carry.

He reckons that with just 5 amp hours (instead of 12-14) these lighweight batteries will give you 60 seconds to get your bike going, and then you're done, and it's not recommended to keep re-starting the bike to check it works, without doing a decent run in between to top the charge up... Doh.

Let's hope I can get home from work on her tonight, so I can run a trickle overnight (which he did recomend).

Thaks guys.

Tell you what tho. Not only does the bike look lighter without a black box tucked between her rear hanches, she feels lighter too. 2.2kg weight saving is suprisingly noticeable on a little air coooled Duc.
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Old Dec 12th, 2011, 10:03 am   #6 (permalink)
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There's a video on YouTube showing to warm it up in 35F temperatures by putting a load on it. This was for a Ballistic battery. I just ordered a 12 cell to switch between the Sport and Yamaha xv1700 Warrior.
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Old Dec 13th, 2011, 7:42 am   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1duckyboy View Post
There's a video on YouTube showing to warm it up in 35F temperatures by putting a load on it. This was for a Ballistic battery. I just ordered a 12 cell to switch between the Sport and Yamaha xv1700 Warrior.
I couldn't find the vid you referred to, or any refs online, but I assume all I have to do is turn the ignition on, while the light draws current for 30+ seconds, warming the battery... and then fire her up as usual?

Had the battery on trickle charge last night. She went fro "charge" to "maintain" in about 20 mins and then I left her on for 4 hours.

I didn't want to fire her up this morning as I wasn't going anywhere, so will save my next start up for when i have a few miles to ride. I don/t want to keep repeating the same mistake over and over.

I'll keep you all posted.
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Old Dec 13th, 2011, 10:01 am   #8 (permalink)
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Sorry LD, I don't know how to forward an address. Google "Ballsitic Cold Start Video" and a video from the Ballistic site will be the first hit. That's the one, very informative.
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Old Dec 13th, 2011, 12:07 pm   #9 (permalink)
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Downloads - Ballistic Performance Components
Very interesting!
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Old Dec 13th, 2011, 12:23 pm   #10 (permalink)
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Brilliant guys. Thanks for this.
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