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Old Nov 30th, 2011, 9:09 pm   #1 (permalink)
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Dead Charging System

So I've had my 2010 GT1000 for almost a year now, last one on the floor from Ducati Seattle. Love the bike. Lately I've been planning a cross country trip for Spring and am looking at luggage, windscreens, tank bags, etc. I always keep the bike on a Battery Tender at night. A couple days ago I notice that it seems to take longer for the BT to go from red to blinking red to green but think nothing of it.

Today I go for a ride to run some errands, make three stops, probably 90 minutes of run time. A mile from my house the yellow light goes on and stays on until I reached the driveway where the bike starts misfiring and quickly dies.

At that point the lights seem to be on but there's not enough charge to turn the starter over. I charged it for an hour, started it an put a voltmeter on the battery. 11.6V that increased to about 11.72V when I rev'd the motor to 3K-5K, but no more.

So obviously the charging system is fubar. I remember reading some threads on the RR, heat, undersized wires that fry, connectors that create high resistance spots, relocating the RR, MOSFET RR replacements from Yamaha's, etc, but I figured that surely by 2010 Ducati would have fixed all of that. Nope. The bike has 1500 miles on it. I wouldn't even get halfway across country at that rate, and it's not like I've done a lot of high temp riding or idling either.

Well, I'll take it into the local dealer Friday and we'll see what the culprit is, but I'm betting on the RR. This is VERY disappointing to say the least. Long trips are off until this is figured out.

OK, enough venting. I'm wondering if people are still experiencing this failure with late model Ducs, and I guess some advice on what you would do. I'm an old, retired electrical engineer, so installing the MOSFET replacement, 10 or 12 AWG wires and even relocating the new RR is no problem, may even fun in a perverse sort of way, but once I do any of that (probably even including a relocate of the replacement RR) I'm sure the warranty is gone, but if I just get it fixed and move on I wouldn't trust the bike on any sort of long trip.

Anyway, I wanted to hear other's experiences on this.

Also, when I bought the bike I had the dealer install heated grips, which I'm sure pulls a few amps of current. I'll have to find the specs on it and work up a total current draw for the bike, but it does have a 525W alternator in it which implies 43 Amps which should be more than sufficient for the bike's loads, "assuming" that the wiring and connectors from the stator to the RR can handle 20 to 40 amps of current steady state...
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Old Dec 1st, 2011, 8:44 am   #2 (permalink)
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It's your RR. I'm sure that you've seen this is a common issue with Ducs...and actually other bikes as well. I don't care if the bike is 2006 or 2010, I personally think the technology is there that this shouldn't happen at all. Anyway, getting a replacement OEM will still leave you wondering. If you get a MOSFET you won't ever wonder AND you won't have to worry about your bike catching fire!

I think the wires are sized fine; as you know, the connections can be a resistance point but I don't think they are that bad. Feel free to solder them together if it makes you sleep better. But get the MOSFET. Period. Then your only worry -- if you haven't coated your tank -- is tank spread but that occurs gradually and won't leave you dead on the side of the road.

If you are riding to Oregon would you mind bringing my mother-in-law with you so we can save on plane tickets? Oh, you're not old, just very well experienced With a name of 'linux' I figured you were in the computer field. And had a long beard. And liked to make things overly complex but claim that it's really simple. And provide users with cryptic to little help.
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Old Dec 1st, 2011, 11:03 am   #3 (permalink)
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I agree it sounds like your RR.

I went through two RRs until I decided to make lots of vent holes in the seat tray/pan. The RR is in a bad location and needs airflow. I've seen RRs fail in Triumph 955i where they are also installed in the seat tray/pan.

Everyone here that has added ventilation (labor + $0), relocated their RR (1.5x labor + $0), or gone MOSFET (labor + $$) has solved the problem.

Here's some different ideas with links/pics to help:

Voltage Rectifier Regulator




Relocated Rectifier/Regulator on 1000S



Regulator Relocation How To - "The Knucklehead Method"



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Last edited by aeolian; Dec 1st, 2011 at 11:29 am. Reason: Added links and pictures
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