FCR 41MM Split Kit w/ Malossi Intake Manifolds - What Else Do I Need? - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2017, 9:43 pm Thread Starter
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FCR 41MM Split Kit w/ Malossi Intake Manifolds - What Else Do I Need?

I am purchasing this kit brand new, probably from Power Barn and I will also be purchasing 2 Malossi rear tilted intake manifolds - REAR TILTED INT.MANIF. Ø 34x45.

Before I commit to a nearly $1,550 purchase (so far...) I wanted to make sure my ducks are in order.

- 96' 900SS CR
- The exhaust is chopped (Please ignore this fact for now when answering the questions below. Let us assume a healthy set of Termigs or something of that caliber. And feel free to forward profanities to the genius prior owner for doing this....)
- Mechanically, everything else is stock as far as I know.

Q1: Will the rubber boots joining the original Mikunis to the original intake manifolds also work with the 41MMs and the Malossi manifolds? I read somewhere here that they do, but I wanted to double check.

Q2: Can I run the velocity stacks on this stock motor? If not, at what point can one do this? Or do I need to purchase the pod filters, to begin with, or something else all together?

Q3: Motowheels and Power Barn state that the carbs come pre-jetted. Does this mean that the carbs are truly plug-and-play for a completely stock bike, and assuming pod filters would be installed, or the v-stacks, or what are they assuming exactly? I take it one thing they cannot account for in terms of carb adjustment is altitude due to the parts being shipped in various parts of the country.

Q4: Horizontal draft or down draft? Is there only 1 correct answer to this or it is purely preference? I've heard the horizontal cylinder should take the down draft, and the vertical should take horizontal/side draft.

Q5: Should I have any other questions? I may be missing something--would love to hear about it...

Thank you.

Last edited by samadhi; Jan 9th, 2017 at 10:32 pm. Reason: Added Q
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2017, 3:01 am
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The kit should come with some extra jets to help you tune it. The cost of doing new FCRs, manifolds, air filters, TPS and fitment kit, Ignitech ignition and one of Fastbikesgear's Hall effect ignition pickup kits, there's not much change from 2.5K US. This is the reason that I went down the Fuel injection route. Using parts that are freely available I have been able to get it all for 1500US. I have opted for a couple of other interesting add ons' like you do but they are all bits that I am making by choice. The one big draw back is that I am going to have to do some dyno time when the bike is up and running which is going to cost me.
One bit of advice is to get a fuel mixture sensor and fit it to your bike, makes getting the jetting right a bit easier.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2017, 5:02 am
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I got the split FCRs from Power Barn for my M900; 1 downdraft & 1 sidedraft and supplied with Motion-pro throttle and cables.

I bought the Malossi manifolds separately and also Malossi rubber boots, however I don't know if Mikuni boots would fit as I didn't have any, but for what they cost I'd get new anyway.

With regards to jetting, my engine is 944cc and has flowed heads and high-comp pistons so not standard and the jetting was too lean, it did however run well enough to ride to the dyno centre and I then fitted larger main and air jets. I would think the jetting would be close for a 900cc unmodified engine? There were no spare jets with the kit but, fortunately there is a stockist very close by and the jets are not expensive.

I have hi-level Termis and had the standard 40mm header pipes with an opened-up crossover box.

The supplied (blue) plastic stacks worked OK but obviously have no filtration and seeing that one faces forwards, directly behind the rear wheel I needed filters. I used foam 'sock' filters but these took away 5hp when fitted - without the filters the bike made 91hp & 67lb/ft at the wheel, with the filters this dropped to 86hp but torque remained the same.

I have Ignitech ignition and the power was very on/off plus I wasn't happy with the intake/filter or exhaust setup (I felt the exhaust was strangling it) so I made some modifications;

Fitted a TPS to one of the carbs so that I could programme ignition advance to vary with the throttle position as well as RPM.

Replaced the blue stacks with K&N stacks that have filter fitting provision - these are slightly longer and narrower than the FCR stacks but, importantly take a large K&N filter.

Replaced the 40mm exhaust pipes with a 45mm system with 'spaghetti' style crossovers (Termi cans are already 45mm).

Due to various reasons I have not been back to the dyno with the new configuration but can say that it is definitely much better to ride; the power is less on/off although it still has that baseball-bat-in-the-face delivery when you crack the throttle and I feel that it also makes more power.

I also swapped the motion-pro throttle for a 916 throttle (had to custom make the cables & removed the closer cables as not necessary) to get a fast-idle setting so that it will run at idle when cold.

This gave a very fast throttle action due to the larger throttle cam and I softened it a little with a throttle 'tamer' cam as it really was too fast. Now with the 'tamer' it is about the same as a 916 fitted with a fast throttle cam, giving full throttle in just under a quarter turn which is just about perfect (especially compared to my old Guzzi with it's open the throttle and then then go back for another 'bite' action).

Only other things I changed was I machined one of the 'lips' off the FCR manifold connector 'pipes' (screws into carb and fits into the rubber), I did this purely because of fitting constraints in the Monster frame (also had to modify the frame) but I don't think SS requires this as the under tank area is less congested with frame cross members. Doing this made the intake tract 5mm shorter which may/may not have had any affect in the required tuning?

The end result is a bike that is huge fun to ride and despite giving away 30hp to my 916 feels every bit as fast (or faster) up to 60-70mph, infact it makes more power and torque up to 6,000 rpm at which point it starts to flatten out and the 916 gets on song to then romp away from 7,000rpm.

916, M900 & Guzzi LeMans II
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2017, 8:43 am
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The FCR's come from the distributor with base line jetting, I have never kept it when the bike hits the dyno but it is often close enough to cause no harm. Each bikes demands are different so There is nothing a re-seller like powerbarn/motowheels can do about that without running your bike on their dyno. Bolt them up and when you run them pay attention to jetting and adjust as you feel necessary,If you do not feel comfortable doing this find a good dyno operator in your area and you can get it fine tuned.

Pilot jets,main jets and needles are what I change the most. Pilot and main are easy, needle is a bit more work. Jets are cheap and readily available so most of your cost of setup will be your time.

Split singles are good carbs but keep up on sync if you use the high idle whips. Learn how to start the bike without raising the individual idles and it will stay in sync. A throttle lock allows a warm up idle but does not effect sync.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 2017, 2:36 pm
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My split single setup has 2 downdraft carbs on short Malossi intakes. Make sure the grooves on the intakes match the rings on the rubber boots. I have one set of intakes that do not match up with the boots.

Current Rides
2012 Multistrada 1200 S, 2000 996 mono track only, 1997 900 SS track only, 2002 BMW R1100S, 1970 Triumph Bonneville (restoration project)
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 2017, 10:30 pm
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Assuming a 94 is much like a 92 I know that the stock rubbers fit the new manifolds and the Keihins as I have two sets. The ones for the older 900's that used Dellorto carbs and have 2 rings instead of three (I have a set of those too) They fit, but aren't optimal.

As said above, make sure you have the grooves right. The manifold gets the single grove side and the carbs get the double groove side.

When installing the manifolds you will have to start the nuts with the manifolds pulled back a bit from the head in order to get clearance. Make sure they are centered over the port before your final snug.

My bike came with two identical split downdraft carbs. The cables come with two 45 degree fittings and two 90 degree fittings. The 45's go to the vertical cylinder and the 90's go on the horizontal cylinder. Make sure they aren't all twisted up, the rubbers turn to accommodate this. You MUST be sure they operate freely before you start the engine. Check it lock to lock as well. The pull cables go in the third hole on that side of the 5 holes on the wheel and the push cables go in the second hole from their side. You may need to install the pull cable on the vertical cylinder before you mount the carb in the manifold. The other three cable can be mounted with the carbs in place.

The cable kit throttle pin is supposed to fit in a hole on the handle bar. Again, I don't know if that hole is in the factory bar, or if you need to drill it. I have two now and run my cable a little differently than they were to accommodate my double brake line and keep the cabled from hitting the interment pod. It all fits, but it's like adjusting the steering stops on that bike; a compromise between what works and what you'd like.

You may want to remove the tops of the carbs and put a drop of nail polish on the nut and screw that are for synchronizing the carbs when run side by side. As I learned on here, you don't need them for split carbs, but they can come loose and will mess up your syncronization.

Because mine came on the bike I'm not sure what the fuel line routing will entail for you, but I suspect you'll need hose, clamps and a tee fitting. Keep the hoses off the engine.

The flat head screws in the manifolds that mine came with are a b***h to get out to install the synchronization tubes. I switched to socket caps and still ended up cutting a key down to work.

As stated above, synchronization is critical, just did mine tonight and it made all the difference in the world.

1992 Ducati 900ss
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