Repairing a rusty or leaking SS tank - Page 2 - - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #11 of 81 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 2007, 4:04 pm
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I think I got the dreaded leaky gas tank on my 04 SS.

I quickly took off ( or tried to at least ) the gas cap to have a look inside, and noticed not much come off with just removing the Allen screws. How do you remove the intire gas cap area to be able to get a good look inside?
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post #12 of 81 (permalink) Old Dec 9th, 2007, 8:17 am Thread Starter
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Yes you have to remove the whole thing.
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post #13 of 81 (permalink) Old Mar 16th, 2008, 8:20 am
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It leaks, it drips, but does not appear to be a worry, as long as you are not on it!

I have finally suffered the leaking tank syndrome. Started as a stain on the frame, but was not sure at first what it was! Eventually worked out the tank was weeping fuel. Contacted the Australian importer, the parent company or whatever who I bought it from, the sales arm checked it and advised someone felt that leaking petrol was not a safety/recall issue . . . I left it as it was not an issue, from the "experts" and now it now drips petrol every 3 seconds from the tank. Mmmmm what is safe and not safe? 1 drip per minute is safe, 3 drips is not safe???

It makes me wonder, when I use this wonderful web site, that one of the four permanent threads is "how to repair a leaking tank" Maybe there is a serious problem if it ranks a permanent headline post. Where I live there are strict regulations on safety issues and it only has to be one incident as far as I know. Naturally/obviously I am concerned for my wellbeing, but these representatives don't have to get on my/our bikes - different standards?

People sometimes ak me how many kilometres per litre - not that I care but it is around 15km per litre, depending how/when/where I ride.

With the leak, just parked, not run/used/started at all, fuel consumption is about 10 litres per day!! Current Ducati marketing is aimed at something along the lines of half the service cost, but that means stuff all compared to leakage cost. I must admit my annual service cost will be very low because there is no way I will be starting a Ducatov Cocktail.

Richard Collins - 2001 900SSie
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post #14 of 81 (permalink) Old Mar 16th, 2008, 8:46 am
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As many have have established by now, i am not particularly happy with the importer's response to my personal safety concerns, which lead me to ponder the following question/test.

How about I ride my 2001 900SSie into their workshop, leave it running or even off, with gas/petrol dripping out of the defective tank onto a hot engine and get one of their staff to sit on it or even just have it in the workshop. Would the rules be different?

Richard Collins - 2001 900SSie
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post #15 of 81 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 2008, 2:46 am
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Fixing the real leak, not patching it internally

As per my external fuel filter post, I have had the tank repaired.

I "consulted" a welding mate who directed me to a restoration company (they do Rolls Royce renos amongst other fine cars) who have a lot of radiator experience.

We determined the leak was from a cracked spot weld on the hinge to tank union. I meticulously stripped paint around the hinge plate, then blew out all the crap and paint stripper with a steam pressure cleaner.

They then sweated solder all around so that it wicked into all crevices under the offending plate. Another advantage is that solder is lowe temperature than welding and will not buckle the tank nor stuff up the visible paint work.

I showed them the POR-15, which they know of and they advised that this would not be necessary after their fix, so i did not do it

It had a few internal spots of surface rust and they gave me a wet product to spray on to remove the rust with a non metallic kitchen pot scourer - looks like new now.

Cost Australian Dollars 340 - Rolls Royce price? Much cheaper than 3,400 or so for a new tank and it is undoubtably fixed "forever", unlike the original construction!
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Richard Collins - 2001 900SSie
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post #16 of 81 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 2008, 3:49 pm
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today i have repaired my fueltank with POR 15 Kit.
very easy-good stuff. the Marine cleaner is amazing ,after the cleaning the rust was gone-totaly clean.
now i must wait 72-96 hours and than i be back on the road
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post #17 of 81 (permalink) Old Jun 4th, 2008, 5:55 am
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Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou for this.

I had to finally do it for myself as the exterior patch up job that had been done a few years ago by my husband had failed and the tank was leaking again.

So, I printed out your instructions here and followed them as well as the very clear ones that came with the kit.

Yes, the kit is available in Australia. Just google POR15 and you'll get the company who is the agent here. Actually, I'm so impressed, I plan on trying a couple of their other products! (and no, I'm not endorsed by them either! It cost me about 77 AUS to get the kit!)

So, if you're out there and are thinking about fixing your tank this way, let me say, if a WOMAN can do it...then YOU can!

I'm only a day away from filling the tank up and starting the bike up. I put it back together tonight, only needed a hand to get the tank filler surround pushed back into place. (I borrowed a couple of blokes for that job! )

Thanks again, Rainman. Your thread really was the inspiration for me going out and doing it for myself. And I must add, that I'm kinda proud of me for doing it too...

1998 900ss - Yellow! (Desdemona)
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post #18 of 81 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 2008, 7:55 pm
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What's wrong with just putting some JB weld on the bottom of the tank. It's out of sight and if you do it right you won't get it on the paint.
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post #19 of 81 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 2008, 6:48 am
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Originally Posted by mrhat201 View Post
What's wrong with just putting some JB weld on the bottom of the tank. It's out of sight and if you do it right you won't get it on the paint.
Dude... c'mon....JB WELD???

I'm as big a redneck as the next guy (grew up in the south, drop my g's when I talk, just gave up dipping Copenhagen.... again).

The tank rusts from the inside to the outside. If you're repairing the outside, there's still a rust problem on the inside that is eventually going to spread. Are you going to JB Weld it again?

Duct tape is faster.....

I need to lube my chain.
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post #20 of 81 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 2008, 10:02 am
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Look b4 you leap

This unfortunate thread addresses a multitude of "sins"

Having experienced the leaking tank syndrome I leapt in and bought one of the admirable solutions. I then obtained some professional advice, as per earlier posts in this thread.

Before you rush out and buy POR15, JB Weld or solder like I had to, work out what the problem really is, then select the appropriate solution to your particular problem.

The common denominator is a leaking tank, however they leak for different reasons and therefore need different solutions.

From what I have read, rust is admirably fixed using POR15and other problems fixed by JB Weld. In my case, the welding of the hinge plate to the tank base failed/cracked resulting in fuel weeping out.

In my case, JB or POR would have been a temporary fix, but the real solution was to fix the cracked weld by soldering.

Bottom line is work out the problem first.... rust, welds etc. then look at the solution to your specific problem. If you do not, then you may be doing a fix again very soon, after spending hours or money removing an inappropriate fix.

Richard Collins - 2001 900SSie
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