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Jul 15th, 2012, 7:45 pm
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#61 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Chippewa, pa, usa
Posts: 3
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thank you so much for posting this info. I recently purchased a 94 900ss/cr and after its second fill-up it started leaking. I just put her all back together again and love the results, thanks again
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1994 900sscr
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Jul 17th, 2012, 1:26 pm
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#62 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Trowbridge, Wiltshire, United Kingdom
Posts: 954
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Im going to add a few posts from my tank-seal blog on another Duke forum as - they are Very Funny!!
"Just wanted to say thanks for putting this thread up. I did my tank at the weekend and all went well. Oddly enough, the tank was actually just about the only bit of the bike that wasn't knackered, and was actually quite free from rust. However, I had already bought the kit so did it any way as preventative maintenance.
The only thing I would add to the list of instructions, is to not bother with latex gloves. You really need marigolds or similar, the longer the sleeve/arm bit the better. Halfway through the final stage my latex gloves gave out and ripped. I had no choice but to soldier on as I had already started. Both hands and wrists are coated in POR15 sealant. Believe me, this stuff just does not come off. I tried brake and clutch cleaner, swarfega, even petrol. Nothing shifts it. I now have silver hands and look like the metal cop out of Terminator 2. When I emailed the manufacturers in the States for advice they told me to just keep applying hand cream to reduce the itching, and it should come off in two to three weeks."
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Aug 25th, 2012, 7:38 pm
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#63 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Greenville, South Carolina,
Posts: 29
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Just wanted to chime in and say that POR-15 worked incredibly well for my tank. This is the worst I've ever seen in my life, I can't believe it worked so well.
Before:
After
Thanks for the detailed write up OP!
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Oct 1st, 2012, 5:51 pm
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#64 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Baltimore, MD, USA
Posts: 20
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Well Guys, I just finally had time to work on the old Duc. Been a bummer not being able to ride all summer. It has not been running good due to ethanol problems with fuel sitting. I just cleaned out the carbs again and I had another fuel delivery problem. I decided to check on the tank and never knew of the rust issue.
Sure enough I have rust in the tank. One vent line had a bunch of rust and was clogged.
I also never changed the fuel filter.
My plans are to POR-15 the inside of the tank and I am looking for suggestions an how you guys capped the big top hole. Also the lower holes.
Once I'm done with POR15 I'm going the bypass the internal fitler and move it external.
I have found the Gates 5/16 fuel line but it is expensive. Any alternatives that will survive, even with fuel with ethanol?
Now for the bypass. I have seen pics.
I'm guessing you replace the Ducati shutoff with a 90 deg fitting.
What filter (external) do you use?
Also what Petcock do you recommend that looks nice and is functional.
I never liked the Duc petcock and though it was stupid you need to lift the tank to get at it.
Guys thanks for your help. Sort of a bummer we need to do this.
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Nov 15th, 2012, 3:26 pm
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#65 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wilbraham, MA, USA
Posts: 2
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Tank Vent Question
Thanks to everyone for the great instructions and pictures. Having read through the whole thread I still have one question that no one seemed to address. On my 1992 750ss, and I believe on all the 1991-98's there is that bulge at the front of the tank with the check valve and vent hose. As I understand that is the primary vent for the tank, letting vapor out and air in as fuel is used.
Did you guys do anything to prevent those vents from getting sealed shut? Mine was crudded shut until I blew it out with low pressure air from a Scuba tank, and now it is fairly open, but I can't see up in there to get a good look. I am guessing all the chemicals will get up into that little air space between the tank top and the bulge, then the sealer will seal it shut. Are people closing that off with duct tape first?
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Nov 17th, 2012, 4:54 am
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#66 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hartlepool, , UK
Posts: 183
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SOME GREAT WORK GOING ON HERE!
Mgkarl, it's been 6 years now since I did my tank, (post no. 2, I believe) and from memory I didn't treat the top inside of the tank where the vent section lives. I must try and take a photo sometime but that means taking whole cap assembly out, which we all know ain't fun.
External filter, I used a Ducati 916 series metal bodied filter as the ports fit the SS fuel lines a treat.
__________________
Currrent Bikes:
1993 944SS: Everything has been fiddled with 
2001 ST4S: The new kid on the block
2001 Aprilia Falco: Ohlins forks, Oz wheels = Stealth Fighter.
My 900ss Resource: http://900ss.proboards.com/
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Dec 5th, 2012, 10:35 pm
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#67 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Dunedin, , New Zealand
Posts: 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Punch
As per my external fuel filter post, I have had the tank repaired.
I "consulted" a welding mate who directed me to a restoration company (they do Rolls Royce renos amongst other fine cars) who have a lot of radiator experience.
We determined the leak was from a cracked spot weld on the hinge to tank union. I meticulously stripped paint around the hinge plate, then blew out all the crap and paint stripper with a steam pressure cleaner.
They then sweated solder all around so that it wicked into all crevices under the offending plate. Another advantage is that solder is lowe temperature than welding and will not buckle the tank nor stuff up the visible paint work.
I showed them the POR-15, which they know of and they advised that this would not be necessary after their fix, so i did not do it
It had a few internal spots of surface rust and they gave me a wet product to spray on to remove the rust with a non metallic kitchen pot scourer - looks like new now.
Cost Australian Dollars 340 - Rolls Royce price? Much cheaper than 3,400 or so for a new tank and it is undoubtably fixed "forever", unlike the original construction!
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Looks like this is my issue also, best find a restoration guy in NZ
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Feb 10th, 2013, 11:45 am
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#68 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Acworth, Ga, USA
Posts: 36
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Caswell Plating
I just bought an 03 SS that sat for five years and the tank was very rusty. I work at a shop and the way we do it is. Step 1 drain and remove everything from inside the tank. 2 make plugs for the open hole like vent lines, sending units, and such. 3 Fill tank full of Distilled White Vinegar and wait about a week just keep an eye on it once in a while. This will act like a mild acid. 4 Rinse tank with water. After rinse you will need to Prep & Etch the tank. I bought Prep & Etch at Home Depot. Just follow the directions it takes about 30mins. 5 Rinse with water real good then dry I at this point used alittle alcohol to thoroughly get rid of any water. The Prep & Etch keeps the tank from flash rusting. At this point you have 48 hours to coat. 6 Caswell the tank. Just follow the direction in the box.
My tank was really rusty and it came out great. It even filled in some of the thin spots on the bottom of the tank.
Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer - Restoration Aids - Caswell Inc
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May 20th, 2013, 3:32 pm
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#69 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 8
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I only want to give thanks to the post.
Some months ago I bought a 2002 900ss Senna. The tank was horrible and I following this post now is better than new.
Here you have the post I did: post
Līs
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ST3s ABS
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