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Old Jan 16th, 2012, 12:10 pm   #1 (permalink)
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Need help with valve adjustment

I started to check my valves and am not sure what to do. I've only checked the horizontal cylinder so far, intake: open,.003 close, .007 exhaust : open .000, close,.007. I checked the close by pushing down on the closer rocker. First time doing this and haven't seen how to correct this situation. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Jan 16th, 2012, 10:39 pm   #2 (permalink)
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You should start by watching some vids on youtube-shows and explains a lot
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Old Jan 16th, 2012, 10:40 pm   #3 (permalink)
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Look for Ducati 2V vale adjustment
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Old Jan 17th, 2012, 8:16 am   #4 (permalink)
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Plenty of info online. I especially like Chris Kelley's vid (ca-cycleworks). You probably know that your valves are way off. I set all my openers to .004" and all closers to .001-.002". Be sure to replace the collets (split rings). Plug the oil return holes to keep from losing a split ring down there. A magnet helps remove the split rings. Make sure the cylinder you are working on is at TDC on the compression stroke. Go slow, take your time. Look into MBP collets if it will be a race or track bike. They increase valve adjustment intervals by a lot. Having a shim set (Ducati 2 Valve and 4 Valve Adjustment Shim Kits) saves a lot of time and headaches, but is pricey. I bought one since I now have 2 Supersports. Good luck. Not hard to do, but when you are done you will see why dealers charge $600 or more to do the job (much time involved).
P.S. I find it easier to do with the cam belts removed.
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Last edited by Joe-B; Jan 17th, 2012 at 8:23 am.
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Old Jan 19th, 2012, 6:42 pm   #5 (permalink)
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make sure you line up the dots on the flywheel through the window when you measure too. makes a big difference.
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Old Jan 19th, 2012, 9:23 pm   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help,I watched the video a couple of times,the thing I didn't see is what to do with the tight opener shims,so I figure to just sand them on a flat surface. I didn't see the dots in the flywheel window,but will use a flashlight to look again. I watched the rockers and felt the cylinder for compression and then checked the timing dots on the cam.
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Old Jan 20th, 2012, 7:26 am   #7 (permalink)
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You can replace or sand shims. About .001"/min. of sanding. I start with 220 grit, and finish with 400. Sanding is time consuming but works fine. Be aware that if you replace the 1/2 rings, the new ones will take up around .001" of excess clearance. I have a hard time with the dots on the flywheel; I use a finger (and dowel) to find TDC compression.
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Old Jan 21st, 2012, 6:24 pm   #8 (permalink)
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I made some jack stands today so I could do the vertical cylinder today,also removed the belts as I am going to replace them while I'm doing the maintenance on it,the openers are tight back there so I will clearance them first and then check the closers,there was no free play in the cam at all !! But I could still spin the opener shims so it's not too tight.
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