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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 3:14 pm   #1 (permalink)
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Aluminum Swingarm rear brake...

Hello guys, I have decided to purchase an aluminum swingarm which the seller described as 91-98 900ss Swingarm. I am a bit troubled because of the fact that I noticed a slight difference on the rear caliper mounting point. My 1991 has just a plain stud-like (pic#3) which serves for the rear caliper mounting plate/bracket to slide in. I am attaching a picture of his (pic#1)which obviously is different showing a bolt and a (I guess) brake line clamp. Can someone please advise if I can use this one on my 91 900? What can I do to make it work on mine?

Once again, I thank you all who pit stop for an advise or help with this.

Thanks!!!

**Update** Original 1991 rear caliper plate/mount has been successfully removed!!! Yes!!!! Now it's just a matter of putting new shims (if possible) for the pivotal points of the swingarm, lubricate properly and torque to specs!!! As soon as she is roadworthy again, I will post pictures of her with the replaced swingarm. Once again, thanks!!!
Attached Thumbnails
Aluminum Swingarm rear brake...-hopefully-there-will-no-issues-rear-caliper-mount-my-new-aluminum-swingarm-nick.jpg   Aluminum Swingarm rear brake...-nice-right-view-my-new-used-aluminum-swingarm.jpg   Aluminum Swingarm rear brake...-1991-swingarm-rear-caliper-guiding-stud.jpg   Aluminum Swingarm rear brake...-ducati-1991-swingarm-rear-caliper-guiding-stud.jpg   Aluminum Swingarm rear brake...-ducati-91-900ss-swingarm-rear-caliper-stud-removed.jpg  

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Last edited by vickon; Nov 22nd, 2011 at 10:21 am.
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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 3:41 pm   #2 (permalink)
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looks like this was for the floating brake? maybe you can find the mounts for it, then you'll have a cool floating caliper! Nothing ever goes as planned huh?
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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 4:02 pm   #3 (permalink)
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I don't think it's going to be a big deal because on my swingarm the stud only serves as a "keeping in place" or "guide" for the bracket/plate that holds the actual caliper. There is no bolt or nut to tighten, only slide the plate unto the little stud/guide and what really holds the caliper are two bolts to the mounting plate and of course once the caliper is slided unto the rotor. But once again, there is no bolt or nut on mine holding the caliper mounting plate. Also, I want to keep my bike with the original mounting system not the floating. Thanks amehl!
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91 900ss Red
87 750 Paso Red-Sold
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89 GSXR 750 White/Blue/Red-Sold
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92 907ie Red-Sold
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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 6:49 pm   #4 (permalink)
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Aluminum swingarm rear...

Mystery resolved! A torx wrench, WD-40, a hammer and 91 original guiding stub removed! Whew! After a couple of careful taps with a hammer to break loose the 20 year factory thread-lock... the screwable stud came out in one piece! Now on my way to installing my 97 aluminum swingarm on my 91 Duc! Thank you Lord!
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91 900ss Red
87 750 Paso Red-Sold
87 750 Paso Red-Sold
89 Katana Red-Sold
89 GSXR 750 White/Blue/Red-Sold
90 Katana Red-Sold
92 Ninja Black-Sold
92 907ie Red-Sold
06 Harley Black-Sold
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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 8:10 pm   #5 (permalink)
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Before using your "new" swingarm be sure to inspect the welds carefully, especially around the front fittings. I had a crack on mine at the left hand fitting that went around three sides. If cracked it can be re-welded.

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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 9:47 pm   #6 (permalink)
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Aluminum swingarm rear...

Thanks for the advise redpato! Item has been checked and re-checked. No cracks, swingarm is from a 1997 900ss which I was told that are less prone to cracking thanthe earlier 91-92 models.

Once again, thanks! Anyway I am going to have my original welded/repaired and maybe polished. I will then decide if I swap it again for the 97 or sell it.
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87 750 Paso Red-Sold
87 750 Paso Red-Sold
89 Katana Red-Sold
89 GSXR 750 White/Blue/Red-Sold
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92 Ninja Black-Sold
92 907ie Red-Sold
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Old Nov 22nd, 2011, 12:06 am   #7 (permalink)
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Just a few points in re-installing your swingarm.
1. Use Red Loctite on that brake pin.
2. Use blue Loctite on the clamp bolts, and DON'T overtorque them. Thats a sure way to crack your swingarm.
3. Get some shims from your dealer, or from the guy that sold you the swingarm. Shimming the pivot pin is critical.
4. This is a good time to re-grease your pivot pin bearings, and check for wear. Use plenty of good moly lube grease.
5. Sell that hose clamp to someone who needs it for the floating rear brake.

One last thing. While you have the swingarm on the bench, pull out the adjusters, and other steel bolts, and coat them with anti seize. Hit them with Liquid Wrench first. The steel adjuster bolts sometimes gall in the aluminum swingarm, or sometimes they rust inside the swingarm. Make sure you fill all the bolt holes on the top of the swingarm with bolts and rubber washers so water doesn't end up in your swingarm, and rust the steel bolts in place.

Cheers,
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Last edited by hankstump; Nov 22nd, 2011 at 12:09 am. Reason: re-read original post
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Old Nov 22nd, 2011, 9:27 am   #8 (permalink)
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Aluminum Swingarm rear...

Thank you very much Phil!!! That's what I'm talking about!!! I really appreciate your excellent advise and suggestions! I am a bit "lost" with the "shims" advise, how do I know which ones? Shouldn't the new/used swingarm come with them? What if my local dealer does not have them readily available? Lately, I have desisted to visit them because they seem to only have replacement parts for newer bikes and not even the "microchip" (excuse me if I misspell the word) to find the part#'s!!! What's your recommendation in the "worse scenario"??? My rear suspension was working excellent with no "play", wobble, or funny characteristics!!! I believe I am the one to blame for cracking the swingarm!!! Because of the way I applied a tie-down strap through the rear wheel in order to keep the bike "planted" on my open trailer!!! I will certainly appreciate your suggestions/specifics regarding the shimming for the replacing swingarm.

**Now for all of you like me that work at our house garage I ask for your creativity and once again help with suggestions!!!** I have two car hydraulic jacks and a rear swingarm pit stand, how do you recommend for me to remove the swingarm from the bike if it is sitting on the pit stand? I place one of the hydraulic jacks under the engine oil pan (with a wooden block) and when I began to remove the pit stand my bike ALMOST fell!!!! Thank God I was expecting something like this could happen and stopped immediately and shouted HELP!!! which my son heard and came to the rescue!!! I will certainly appreciate suggestions/advise from those of you who have already been at this situation!!! I want to take off that friggin cracked swingarm TODAY!!!!**


Once again, thanks to all who stop by!!!
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91 900ss Red
87 750 Paso Red-Sold
87 750 Paso Red-Sold
89 Katana Red-Sold
89 GSXR 750 White/Blue/Red-Sold
90 Katana Red-Sold
92 Ninja Black-Sold
92 907ie Red-Sold
06 Harley Black-Sold

Last edited by vickon; Nov 22nd, 2011 at 11:29 am.
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Old Nov 22nd, 2011, 1:18 pm   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vickon View Post
...

**Now for all of you like me that work at our house garage I ask for your creativity and once again help with suggestions!!!** I have two car hydraulic jacks and a rear swingarm pit stand, how do you recommend for me to remove the swingarm from the bike if it is sitting on the pit stand? I place one of the hydraulic jacks under the engine oil pan (with a wooden block) and when I began to remove the pit stand my bike ALMOST fell!!!! Thank God I was expecting something like this could happen and stopped immediately and shouted HELP!!! which my son heard and came to the rescue!!! I will certainly appreciate suggestions/advise from those of you who have already been at this situation!!! I want to take off that friggin cracked swingarm TODAY!!!!**


Once again, thanks to all who stop by!!!
This is how I did it
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Old Nov 22nd, 2011, 1:32 pm   #10 (permalink)
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+1 for Blitzen. this is the easiest way. I could chaneg a shock in 10 minutes... probably less.

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