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Old Mar 20th, 2011, 11:52 am   #1 (permalink)
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Clutch won't fully disengage after change

I Just installed a new clutch and springs. When I got everything back together i pull in the clutch lever and it won't fully disengage to allow me to roll my bike in gear or shift. After I had that problem i flushed my hydraulic line and bled the line and same result. Does anyone know whats wrong or have any good ideas any help would be greatly helpful. I would call the dealer but they are closed right now. Thanks..
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Old Mar 20th, 2011, 12:26 pm   #2 (permalink)
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Did you align the mark on the pressure plate with the slotted post on the clutch hub? Did you replace the plates in the correct order? Is the stack height (the thickness of the all the clutch plates when stacked one ontop of another?) within spec?
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Old Mar 20th, 2011, 12:32 pm   #3 (permalink)
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yes to all, the only thing thats different is we used stiffer springs
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Old Mar 20th, 2011, 12:39 pm   #4 (permalink)
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Have you over tightened the new springs? They only need tightening about half a turn from hand tight.
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Old Mar 20th, 2011, 12:43 pm   #5 (permalink)
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we tried loosining them up quite a bit to see if that would do it and it still wouldnt disengage enough to put it into first it will shift into second and it pulls forward when its in second but if you try to put it into first it lurches and stalls.
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Old Mar 20th, 2011, 12:54 pm   #6 (permalink)
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Check the Stack Height

A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped. Maximum total stack height should be 38.5mm or so when new.

The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack.

Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.
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Old Mar 20th, 2011, 12:54 pm   #7 (permalink)
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Hmm. You haven't got an aftermarket slave cylinder have you? Some of them came with a little spacer to enable them to work with the older, shorter, push rods. Sometimes they drop out when you take the push rod out?
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Old Mar 20th, 2011, 12:58 pm   #8 (permalink)
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No, I still have the OEM slave cylinder. I can try and use a thinner plate.
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Old Mar 21st, 2011, 10:40 am   #9 (permalink)
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Also make sure that the outtermost plate is rotated one slot position. I have a somewhat similar problem and that helped some of it.

I may need to break it back open at the next oil change to verify my total stack height as I don't remember if I mixed new and old, and if I did, if I payed attention to the 1.5 and 2.0 differences.
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