Getting off the street & onto the track!

[brianmdavis]

Hey fellas,
FINALLY..I'm getting off the street and turning my 999r into a track bike. Way TOOOO many people telling me I need to do this as the 999r is unbelievable on the track.

I've e-mailed Moto for questions regarding skins etc. Taking all the FILA Carbon off my bike as well as the tank and turning into WALL ART.

What do I need to get my bike ready for the track. Any ideas where I can get a good price on a tank, skins etc..

Question, I have 57mm Termi exhaust and I heard the race exhaust is illegal on certain tracks. Is this correct?

Anything I can do to protect the Olins forks?
I have expensive Dianese leathers, back protector etc..Should I buy less expensive gear for the track?

[Chuckracer]

I don't know where you are located (as you havn't filled out your profile, tsk...tsk...tsk), but the only track I know of with a possible noise ordinance is Loudon.

Use the expensive Dainese stuff on the track. You'll probably scuff it up sooner or later, but that's what it's for.

Don't forget to swap out the coolant for water/water wetter. Depending on where you live, you may need to keep an eye on the weather with no antifreeze in the bike. If the local weather is calling for a freeze, dump your cooling system. No need to refill it with anything, just get the water out of it. Also, if it's just gonna be a track bike, I'd go ahead and safty wire at least the drain bolt, screen bolts and filter. A couple extra rear sprockets would be a good plan as well for gearing changes at different tracks. Stands, tire warmers, a canopy, etc. The usual race stuff.

Have fun!

[brianmdavis]

Originally Posted by Chuckracer

I don't know where you are located (as you havn't filled out your profile, tsk...tsk...tsk), but the only track I know of with a possible noise ordinance is Loudon.

Use the expensive Dainese stuff on the track. You'll probably scuff it up sooner or later, but that's what it's for.

Don't forget to swap out the coolant for water/water wetter. Depending on where you live, you may need to keep an eye on the weather with no antifreeze in the bike. If the local weather is calling for a freeze, dump your cooling system. No need to refill it with anything, just get the water out of it. Also, if it's just gonna be a track bike, I'd go ahead and safty wire at least the drain bolt, screen bolts and filter. A couple extra rear sprockets would be a good plan as well for gearing changes at different tracks. Stands, tire warmers, a canopy, etc. The usual race stuff.

Have fun!

Thanks bud....
I live in No. Cal so I should be good on the anti freeze. I'll get water wetter. As far as safery wiring the drain bolt etc..How do I do this?

[moto]

Brian,
I think the only place with noise restictions will be Laguna Seca. Some people have been using "sound diverters" with some success.

Axle sliders are one good way to protect the forks, wheels and brakes. I really believe in front and rear axle, handle bar, and frame sliders with solid footpegs. My friend high sided his 999R at T-hill and only scraped his sliders, broke a rearset and scratched his paint slightly.

We have 5 different type of bodywork in stock: Sharkskin fiber glass, DP fiberglass/kevlar ( street and race version), CRC fiberglass and unpainted OEM Carbon Fiber for the 999R (2005+ style).

I'll be backMonday if you want to go over the different options.

[Bella749]

For bodywork, Sharkskinz sets the standard in quality but is pretty pricy; the upper/lower split is like the OEM street stuff. Sebimoto, available through Yoyodyne, is good high-quality bodywork that won't break your piggy bank; same style split as the WSB bike. Quality is up there with Sharkskinz. Stay away from the cheap chop-gun skins, they do not hold up and look like shit.

Supspension and cahssis set up should be your priority. You already have top-notch components, just make sure you invest in proper springs and valving to suit you. Get intimately familiar with your chassis and supsension and get them dialed in. You will not only go faster, but you'll be safer too. If you start getting into racing or want faster turning, get some 27mm offset triples. Change your brake fluid more often than you would for the street.

Good rubber goes a long way for safety, but if you use race rubber, make sure you use warmers and keep the heat in the tires. Cold race tires suck! I've had excellent results from Pilot Powers on the track without having to worry about rain or lack of heat.

As far as coolant goes, don't run water and W/W unless you have to, your cooling system will appreciate the protection of coolant mix. Use can use Propylene Glycol (i.e. Silkolene Pro-cool) in lieu of Ethylene glycol in some racing clubs. It's less slick and protects your bike better.

Your 57mm system should be fine at 99% of all tracks and organizations. Check your track-day organizer for safety wire requirements, but its a good idea to do the drain plu and filter at the very least. Use Loc-tite on every thing and check for loose bolts often. Stock up on oil and filters and change them every 2 track days or so.

Stick to your high-end safety gear. Last time I checked, a Dainese suit was still less expensive than a skin graft.

Get some schooling and have some fun.... and no bitching to the board when, yes when, you run off the track. It happens to everybody at some point.

[brianmdavis]

Originally Posted by Bella749

For bodywork, Sharkskinz sets the standard in quality but is pretty pricy; the upper/lower split is like the OEM street stuff. Sebimoto, available through Yoyodyne, is good high-quality bodywork that won't break your piggy bank; same style split as the WSB bike. Quality is up there with Sharkskinz. Stay away from the cheap chop-gun skins, they do not hold up and look like shit.

Supspension and cahssis set up should be your priority. You already have top-notch components, just make sure you invest in proper springs and valving to suit you. Get intimately familiar with your chassis and supsension and get them dialed in. You will not only go faster, but you'll be safer too. If you start getting into racing or want faster turning, get some 27mm offset triples. Change your brake fluid more often than you would for the street.

Good rubber goes a long way for safety, but if you use race rubber, make sure you use warmers and keep the heat in the tires. Cold race tires suck! I've had excellent results from Pilot Powers on the track without having to worry about rain or lack of heat.

As far as coolant goes, don't run water and W/W unless you have to, your cooling system will appreciate the protection of coolant mix. Use can use Propylene Glycol (i.e. Silkolene Pro-cool) in lieu of Ethylene glycol in some racing clubs. It's less slick and protects your bike better.

Your 57mm system should be fine at 99% of all tracks and organizations. Check your track-day organizer for safety wire requirements, but its a good idea to do the drain plu and filter at the very least. Use Loc-tite on every thing and check for loose bolts often. Stock up on oil and filters and change them every 2 track days or so.

Stick to your high-end safety gear. Last time I checked, a Dainese suit was still less expensive than a skin graft.

Get some schooling and have some fun.... and no bitching to the board when, yes when, you run off the track. It happens to everybody at some point.

You guys are the best!!

[brianmdavis]

Originally Posted by moto

Brian,
I think the only place with noise restictions will be Laguna Seca. Some people have been using "sound diverters" with some success.

Axle sliders are one good way to protect the forks, wheels and brakes. I really believe in front and rear axle, handle bar, and frame sliders with solid footpegs. My friend high sided his 999R at T-hill and only scraped his sliders, broke a rearset and scratched his paint slightly.

We have 5 different type of bodywork in stock: Sharkskin fiber glass, DP fiberglass/kevlar ( street and race version), CRC fiberglass and unpainted OEM Carbon Fiber for the 999R (2005+ style).

I'll be backMonday if you want to go over the different options.

I'll be out of town until Thursday. I'll buzz you then...

[Chuckracer]

I disagree on the coolant issue, so read this and learn lots then draw your own conclusions:

Cooling System Overheating

[Bella749]

Chuck and I will agree to disagree. I switched back to coolant because my radiator was showing excessive corrosion with distilled water and WaterWetter. I'm now using Pro-cool and WaterWetter with good results.

[cszy67]

Related story and suggestions...

In 1994, after nearly a decade of progressively *hard* street riding I decided to make my way out to a local track, Nelson Ledges. Now I smoked everyone on the street, in the straights, throught the twisties...I thought I was "the man." When I hit the track for the first time I was amazed at how much more extreme everything was: cornering, braking, etc.

As someone earlier had mentioned...suspension is key. My forks and shock were revalved and resprung for my weight and my riding style. Find a local racers at the track that are flying compared to everyone else and talk to them about suspension set-up. Take notes, adjust settings, take more notes, and learn...

Engine, I had my cams degreed, checked my squish area, and tweaked my carbs. That was it...but everyone was sure I had a cheater engine. Towards the end of the 1996 WERA Nationals I even had one guy tell me he was going to put up the money and protest my engine.

My secret that I will share with the world for the first time...my suspension. Going into turns a wee bit faster with everything stable allowed me to carry more through the apex...this was multiplied when exiting...a wee little bit here, and a wee little bit there add up over a 30 minute sprint race! Hence, the reason why I finished many seconds in front of the majority of others.

Leathers...they look cool scuffed up - chicks dig them. Local street guys will praise you when you wear them for the occasional street ride. Prepare to have them cut off your body in a serious accident but don't worry...they are worth their weight in gold. I still have a special pair of leathers hanging in my shop that were cut off me, complete with blood and brain fluid stains, and tears where exposed bones poked through the leather. I am alive and walking because I spent a few extra $$$ on good leathers and used them.

I ran water & watter wetter and never had problems and I am totally anal regarding these things. Hats off to the fella that mentioned beware of starting in cold weather. Flashback 1996 - bikes are being started and warmed up for first morning practice, Road Atlanta...April maybe??? I am still sleeping in the bed of my truck since a gang of local track groupies kept me up way too late. Anyway...I hear guys swearing, throwing tools, etc. They were trashing water pumps by starting the engines with the coolant mix frozen solid.

Sharkskinz were my choice - served well including four crashes that year. Colored duct tape and zip ties work magic for repair. You could always hunt on e-bay for stock body work that has a few scratches and dings - tank included. Don't worry about looking pretty on the track...you are racing, not entering a fashion show. None of the guys polishing their ZX-7R frames ever finished in front of me but boy they sure were pretty!

Take notes, talk to people, try new things, take more notes. Seat time on the track is priceless.

Get ready to be amazed at just how enjoyable life can really be. Making life and death decisions while covering a football field every second feels better than.....