Help Please: Pazzo Race Clutch Lever Install, not working...

[kyzmyss]

Hi Guys,

I have a 2005 749s and recently purchased a set of Pazzo Race Levers. Install appeared to be pretty straight forward (per the instructions). I thought everthing went well, but then again, I'm not exactly mechanically inclined...

Install took me a while. I wanted to make sure I didn't mess anything up so I took my time. After all was said and done, the brake lever worked fantastically. No problems, from what I can tell...

The clutch on the other hand is a totally different story. The lever appeared to go on as easily as the brake lever. When engaging the clutch (depressing the lever completely) the lever just doesn't "feel" right. It seemed to have a lot of "play" in the lever before the clutch even starts to engage. When fully depressed, the clutch is not fully engaged (seems like it is only partially engaged)? Riding it around the block was a challenge...

Any ideas? As mentioned, the install seemed to be straight forward. The only thing that gave me trouble was inserting the actuator pin into the dust boot. This couldn't be my problem, could it?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Kris

[cuvi]

The small actuator pin my need to be adjusted out to engage sooner. This is the pin that you had to work to slide into the rubber housing. I know I had to adjust mine a few times to get the feel I wanted on my set of Pazzos. I definitely had to adjust it out.

Originally Posted by kyzmyss

Hi Guys,

I have a 2005 749s and recently purchased a set of Pazzo Race Levers. Install appeared to be pretty straight forward (per the instructions). I thought everthing went well, but then again, I'm not exactly mechanically inclined...

Install took me a while. I wanted to make sure I didn't mess anything up so I took my time. After all was said and done, the brake lever worked fantastically. No problems, from what I can tell...

The clutch on the other hand is a totally different story. The lever appeared to go on as easily as the brake lever. When engaging the clutch (depressing the lever completely) the lever just doesn't "feel" right. It seemed to have a lot of "play" in the lever before the clutch even starts to engage. When fully depressed, the clutch is not fully engaged (seems like it is only partially engaged)? Riding it around the block was a challenge...

Any ideas? As mentioned, the install seemed to be straight forward. The only thing that gave me trouble was inserting the actuator pin into the dust boot. This couldn't be my problem, could it?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Kris

[Viper1]

Just make sure you don't adjust it to much! Do it in small incraments. This is experience talking.....I had the same problem but on the brake side......once the brake heated up, and pressure built, mine ended up locking the front end tight! Lucky for me I was just taking off from a stop sign and not flying around a corner! Once you get to where you like, you'll love the levers! I have them on all 4 of my Duc's!

[kyzmyss]

Thank you both for your replies. I will have to check the brake side to make sure the actuator pin isn't too engaged.

How do you adjust the actuator pin (I know, sorry, stupid question...)?

Thanks again.

Kris

[rodan]

Originally Posted by kyzmyss

Thank you both for your replies. I will have to check the brake side to make sure the actuator pin isn't too engaged.

How do you adjust the actuator pin (I know, sorry, stupid question...)?

Thanks again.

Kris

Bleed the master cylinder. It is easy to get air in when swapping the levers.
(bolt inside reservoir)

[vcyclenut]

Originally Posted by rodan

Bleed the master cylinder. It is easy to get air in when swapping the levers.
(bolt inside reservoir)

yea i had to bleed mine after swapping levers a couple weeks back and it took several times filling the reservoir before the clutch came back.

[749DUC749]

Originally Posted by rodan

Bleed the master cylinder. It is easy to get air in when swapping the levers.
(bolt inside reservoir)

Sorry to hijack but I have a leak from my reservoir and it seams like it's coming from the blead bolt. Upon inspection it looks like the bolt head was broken off which now causes the leak. How do I go about replacing it?

[kyzmyss]

Sorry guys, dumb question:

How do you bleed the master cylinder?

Also, I think I figured out how to adjust the actuator pin. I removed/loosened the set screw and loosened the nut on the pin itself. Do you need to add lock tight to the pin now to prevent it from coming loose over time?

Thanks again. Any help that can be provided would be great.

Kris

[cuvi]

I didnt use locktite and they have been on my bike for 4000 with no problems. I just bleed the whole system from the caliper and it gets all the air out. Very easy to do, just dont over tighten the bleed screw.

Originally Posted by kyzmyss

Sorry guys, dumb question:

How do you bleed the master cylinder?

Also, I think I figured out how to adjust the actuator pin. I removed/loosened the set screw and loosened the nut on the pin itself. Do you need to add lock tight to the pin now to prevent it from coming loose over time?

Thanks again. Any help that can be provided would be great.

Kris

[rodan]

Originally Posted by kyzmyss

Sorry guys, dumb question:

How do you bleed the master cylinder?

Also, I think I figured out how to adjust the actuator pin. I removed/loosened the set screw and loosened the nut on the pin itself. Do you need to add lock tight to the pin now to prevent it from coming loose over time?

Thanks again. Any help that can be provided would be great.

Kris

Here's a link to the thread I used when I installed mine on the 999. I didn't have to adjust the pin length. Drew's (Ksusio) instruction worked perfectly.

Swapping Levers

The thread includes instruction on bleeding.

If no joy there, search the forums for "Pazzo Install" you'll find every problem you could encounter and a myriad of solutions for said problems.