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999R Full sytem installation, anything to watch out for?

2K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  st2lemans 
#1 ·
I'm planning to install a Zard full system on my MY2003 999R tomorrow. Looks to be easy and straight forward, but is there anything special I should know about?

Thanks,

Tom
 
#2 ·
Heat wrap the pipe that runs from the front cylinder and also tape some heat shield to the inside of your fairing. My '03 999s had the full system and also had cracks in the fairing because it wasn't wrapped.

Also watch out for those tabs they weld onto the pipe that are supposed to be brackets for the little rubber bumpers. The rubber bumpers have a tendency to go away, then you are left with a hot hot hot piece of metal in direct contact with your fairing.

My Xerox has the full system and it is wrapped plus I have the heat shield taped to the inside of the fairing. No problems.

Good Luck.

Larry
 
#8 ·
My Xerox has the full system and it is wrapped plus I have the heat shield taped to the inside of the fairing. No problems.

Good Luck.

Larry
How do you like your Xerox with the full system?
Im trying to decide what to do with mine. I need the money, and hate to sell it, but I need to fix the mess I put myself in, plus, that bike will be the death of me, Its like dr jeckle and mr hide, i get on that bike and change into mr hide... the feelings i get off that bike in the 90 to 150 mph range running it up the back mountain roads make me smile so hard, its like I stuck heroin in my veins. So, do I get rid of the bike, pay off some bills and be responsible, or keep the bike, and probably end up in a body bag, I cant choose. :think:

Somebody came over today to look at one of my dirt bikes I have for sale, we got on a converstation about dumping money in bikes and never getting it out. I pointed at the Red and White Xerox and told him I had a minimum of $40K wrapped up in it and would be lucky to get $20K out of it, he looked at it and could not see how it could be suck an expensive bike. Kelly blue book still has retail at around $25K for it, but stuff is not selling right now, people want stuff almost for free.
Anyways, he tried to jew me down on my dirt bike, I just told him to leave, all my bikes have all been upgraded with the best of parts and well taken care of, he can go screw himself and get a bike for a couple hundred less than I was askin and enjoy the problems he will have with it and end up spending more than the money he would have paid for mine to deal with some elses beat up $hit. Some people are so weird. They dont understand when someone is being honest with them. Funny
 
#4 ·
I'd say to approach it like any custom install- with eyes open and ready to do some minor/ major fabrication and modification as the need arises.

My experience is that these kind of kits are rarely turn key- as in, just bolt it on and go. There is always some massaging, shimming, cutting, etc needed.
Even the Termi kits that were supposedly designed with help and blessing of the factory didn't fit properly and melted fairings.

If it's a full system, I wouldn't automatically assume that you need to wrap anything in header wrap. If it's going inside of stock bodywork that you don't want to cut, then you may have to, but IMHO, avoid it if you can. There is adhesive heat shield that you can stick inside the fairing instead of wrapping (Moose racing). If it's going inside of fiberglass track bodywork, have the Dremel and cutting wheel ready and mod away.
As well, how will you use it? If you'll start the bike and hit the track going fast, there will probably be enough ventilation going through that you won't get any hot spots unless the pipes come within, say, a half inch of the fairing. If it will see street use where you'll have to stop and idle at stoplights and traffic, then you have to take extra heat precautions because heat will build up and fry anything close to the pipes.

I had to add some shims and spacers to my full system (not Zard, but similar) to make everything line up, and as it was, the tubes came up too close to the swingarm, so it had to be shimmed over to avoid contact.

Finally, be aware that as the pipes heat cycle a few times, they'll change shape a little and settle into different positions than you originally mounted them in. You'll need to set it up, go ride a few times, and have a look and adjust things as necessary.
 
#5 ·
As well, how will you use it? If you'll start the bike and hit the track going fast, there will probably be enough ventilation going through that you won't get any hot spots unless the pipes come within, say, a half inch of the fairing. If it will see street use where you'll have to stop and idle at stoplights and traffic, then you have to take extra heat precautions because heat will build up and fry anything close to the pipes.
Street use with perhaps one TL/day, maybe one STOP sign/hr, and no sitting in traffic (filtering/lane sharing is legal).

Ironically, my 999R was used at the factory for test-fitting exhaust systems.

Tom
 
#6 ·
I recently installed the Termi full system on my 749R and i'm not mechanicly inclined at all.........

The biggest problem was to take off and put the little pipe that come off the cilinders (due to difficult access) and to install the racing ECU (it's PIA to sawp the ECU :mad:).
Other than that is was just a matter of patiece to be able to fit those tighter colector curves :eek: (at fist it almost looked like it was impossible) and at the third or forth try everything seemed to fit ok.
I still have to put some spacers on the fairings so they don't get burned when i finally use the bike (i'll have to do that tomorrow).
 
#7 · (Edited)
Heat shielding your fairings

I can pretty much guarantee you will melt your fairing on the lower left side particularly and or else where if you do not shield the surfaces against the heat put off by the aftermarket header pipes. Get the stuff you need here in the links or where ever else you may find the stuff. I have seen the wrap in auto supply stores but not the heat tape that I can remember. Get the 4 inch wide heat tape. The tape goes on your fairings the wrap goes on your pipes.
You might get away with only the tape on the fairings and you might not, your fairings Bro.
Use a spray on adhesive for head liners that you can get at any auto parts store to apply to the fairings before you place the heat tape down. The adhesive on the tape is not good enough to stick to the fairing surface by itself. With the use of the spray adhesive it will stay there, not so without it. Follow the directions for the adhesive and let it tack up before placing the heat tape. Be sure to precut the heat tape just the way you want it before applying it to the prepared surface. Once the heat tape touches the sprayed on adhesive it is stuck, so be careful. The heat tape is easy to cut with sissors and lays down nice and flat. It will also mold well to curves and what not, you will see when you get it.
Good luck!
P.S. Do a search on this site for Heat Shielding, lots of information


http://www.blrmotorsports.com/index.php?cPath=3_4
or
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hd_heat_barrier.php
 
#12 · (Edited)
Leave everything LOOSE! from the cylinder head manifolds to the muffler. Get everything to fit then start drawing the pipe manifolds tight to the cylinders. Use NEW manifold gaskets. It helped to put the springs on after all the pipes were seated, then start loose bolting to the frame. It much easier if you have a helper! Be PATIENT! OH and first tape your frame in the areas that the pipe passes through and the rear of the engine block to avoid nicks! I also taped my tools too to avoid nicking up everything when I am bolting stuff down. And you can bend the stock fairing mount brackets outward alittle to give more clearance between the pipe and fairing. They are the brackets that are bolted to your engine near the rear brake M/C and a few inches behind your shifter. Just bend them out a little by hand and test fit with the fairng 1/4 fasteners when you done mounting the WHOLE system. NO PROBLEM GOOD LUCK!
 
#13 ·
I installed it this morning, no problems other than that the OEM wiring harness tube had to be modified a bit by cutting and bending. As 9d9u9c mentioned, keeping everything loose is very important, as is the order the pipes are installed.

I have two small brackets left over, not sure what they could be for, I'll take pictures of them tomorrow.

Thanks for the insights!

Tom
 
#14 ·
A little detail!
You might not be able to install the rear bottom fairing fastener but you can install the front one. Don't worry about the rear one just tape the front one over with some black or red duct tape so if it does come loose it won't fall out. There is a lot more pipe hanging out there so don't try to force the bottom of the fairing together or you will break it.
I have the old round style 57 m/m Termi on my 999 series and there is just no way to fit the rear bottom fastener. So far so good, no problems.
 
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