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Old Mar 26th, 2006, 2:48 am   #1 (permalink)
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Cracking open the flywheel side..

My gear selector is acting kind of strange lately and I want to take a peek inside.

My first gear won't bottom out correctly. When you bump down to first gear, you should hit bottom. Mine doesn't do that (anymore).

If I let the gear selector snap up from first gear it will bottom out. If after hitting first gear and I just nudge the selector up, it will bottom out. Very strange.

It feels like the spring that makes the gear selector snap up is somewhat weak and its not strong enough to overcome that detent.

Anyway, I would like to crack open the flywheel side and take a peak inside.

Anyone have any helpful hints on opening up that side and putting it back together. I have the service manual but I'm looking for pit falls they don't cover or just gloss over.

Linkage is fine.
Thanks.
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Old Mar 26th, 2006, 10:37 am   #2 (permalink)
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There are no "pitfalls" to be aware of, unless you dont have the right tools. A alt cover puller will help, Haynes, shows you how to make your own or you can find one cheap here http://www.motoreva.com/ I cant remember if it was Haynes or Snyder but one had the lengths of the bolts and their location on the cover. Saves time from having to measure the bolts and hole depths once you get back to reassmbly. Also if your going to be pulling the Alt cover why not go to a lighter flywheel why you are at it? I use a green scotch brite pad with acetone to scrub all the old gasket material off both sides and then used Permatex Ultra Grey gasket maker. I didnt waste time looking for 3bond.

As for the hard shifting it could be in the linkage and there is a spring visable from the Alt side. Thats a stout spring, I would figure it would snap before bending. It could also be in the shift drum or with the shift forks which are inside the case.

Good luck
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Old Mar 26th, 2006, 11:19 am   #3 (permalink)
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yeah its the same setup on my 900ss.... i just had to replace one of the springs because it had broken... was doing similar things to what you are saying. Parts are cheap, the wait for the parts to come in PISSED me off. 6 weeks about.

Ryan
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Old Mar 26th, 2006, 12:19 pm   #4 (permalink)
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I use a rubber mallet to softly break the 3 bond seal. Remember there are locating dowels keeping the cover in place. You'll see it come loose at a point. Then it's just a matter of tapping it loose enough to remove the cover by hand.

Just don't take a Damn Framing Hammer to it!
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Old Mar 26th, 2006, 12:47 pm   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synergy
There are no "pitfalls" to be aware of, unless you dont have the right tools. A alt cover puller will help, Haynes, shows you how to make your own or you can find one cheap here http://www.motoreva.com/ I cant remember if it was Haynes or Snyder but one had the lengths of the bolts and their location on the cover. Saves time from having to measure the bolts and hole depths once you get back to reassmbly. Also if your going to be pulling the Alt cover why not go to a lighter flywheel why you are at it? I use a green scotch brite pad with acetone to scrub all the old gasket material off both sides and then used Permatex Ultra Grey gasket maker. I didnt waste time looking for 3bond.

As for the hard shifting it could be in the linkage and there is a spring visable from the Alt side. Thats a stout spring, I would figure it would snap before bending. It could also be in the shift drum or with the shift forks which are inside the case.

Good luck
Haynes has the tool. Looks simple enough to make. Although, sometimes its less expensive for me if I just buy it. Timewise the multiple trips to Home Depot because I messed up making it, by the time I'm done, it would have been less expensive if I had just purchased it.

I try and do that when I can. Upgrading components when I'm in the area.
However, my 998 is mostly a street bike and I've read that the flywheel mod is more useful for the track bikes.

It's kind of hard for me to figure out what is going on with my shifter. I have lots of pictures but I can't see the parts moving inside. I think the spring is okay because it does snap back but its getting hung up on something.

Thanks for all the replies.
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Old Mar 26th, 2006, 3:00 pm   #6 (permalink)
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just as a warning i'd toque those allen bolt just under spec in the book. i think they are 14nm and on two at the recomended 14 the threads got stripped on my bike, still no oil leaks though. i pulled my flywheel about 3 weeks ago.

also make extra sure you lay out the bolts so you know where they belong, maybe even color code em. my dog walked over my layout and mixed 3 up, not a good time.

as for flywheel i can speak for my lower CC 748, it was one of the best mods yet. i'm not so sure how a 120hp bike is going to respond to a light flywheel.
as for ridability my bike runs way smoother, accelerates a good bit faster. engine braking has increased, which is good around town, but the rpms drop off faster when the clutch is engaged so downshifting requires a little getting use to if you don't throttle when you down shift. stalling is no problem. know also my bike is a commuter/daily/track bike.
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Old Mar 26th, 2006, 6:00 pm   #7 (permalink)
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dude, you've been having some horrible luck with that bike.

bike stalling, flakes in the oil, now this....

i hope it gets better for you. didn't you just buy this bike with low miles?
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Old Mar 26th, 2006, 6:26 pm   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deputydog95
dude, you've been having some horrible luck with that bike.

bike stalling, flakes in the oil, now this....

i hope it gets better for you. didn't you just buy this bike with low miles?
It was running fine till I started messing with it The latest issue is probably electrically related. I think that maybe something happend to the wiring as I was moving things about.

Flakes in the oil, we'll see if they're still there at the next oil change I do.

Overall, it has fired up for me each time and even managed to get me home today. Most of the 400+ miles I put on her have been trouble free.

Call me crazy, but I would rather wrench on my Ducati then ride trouble free everyday on a Japanese bike. At the very least it will keep my diagnostic skills sharp

Now...I have to get my hands on some software that reads the codes from the computer. I'm flying blind right now. Hopefully, I can find software that runs on the Palm operating system.
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Old Mar 26th, 2006, 6:49 pm   #9 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=level7]It was running fine till I started messing with it.


You said it.

I have the same bike and bought it stock. Every upgrade I did to the bike cost me something. I installed some cans and the bike started to run rich. I do the ecu and the bike doesn't start as easily as it did before. I change the rearsets and find there not as comfortable as the stock ones. I add a sprocket cover and it kind of looks naked without any other carbon on the bike. When I bought it off this guy I thought he was kind of slow not having done some work to the bike. I know why he didn't touch it now.
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Old Mar 26th, 2006, 9:25 pm   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by level7
Call me crazy, but I would rather wrench on my Ducati then ride trouble free everyday on a Japanese bike.
plus one on that. i hate my zx10r. can't wait to get back into the semi reliable italian vtwin fold

i don't know what it is about italian vtwins, but you just can't beat the ownership experience, even if parts can be hard to get and they require more TLC.
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