Barnett Clutch diagram??? - Ducati.ms

ShmUDE · Jun 15th, 2007, 7:28 pm

Does anybody still have the paperwork that came with their clutch? I had a dealership install mine and it is shifting like crap. So i wanted to go in and make sure they didn't mess something up but i need the diagram that came with the plates. Can anybody scan it or give me a good discription of what should go where.

The clutch is doing the whole, cant find nutural, rolls at stoplights, i'll kick it in first gear with the clutch in and it will lurch forward and die and i might as well be shifting without the clutch. Ive replaced the slave with an aftermarket one, blead the crap out of the line but the fluid still gets dirty within a day of riding. Think it could be the master?

n8nod9it · Jun 15th, 2007, 7:34 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShmUDE

Does anybody still have the paperwork that came with their clutch? I had a dealership install mine and it is shifting like crap. So i wanted to go in and make sure they didn't mess something up but i need the diagram that came with the plates. Can anybody scan it or give me a good discription of what should go where.

The clutch is doing the whole, cant find nutural, rolls at stoplights, i'll kick it in first gear with the clutch in and it will lurch forward and die and i might as well be shifting without the clutch. Ive replaced the slave with an aftermarket one, blead the crap out of the line but the fluid still gets dirty within a day of riding. Think it could be the master?

What bike is it? I have the diagram..but could walk you through fixing it

j911brick · Jun 15th, 2007, 7:56 pm

Sounds like the clutch pack is the wrong thickness. These should be one plate that is a different thickness from the others.

n8nod9it · Jun 15th, 2007, 8:02 pm

I just put in a Barnette RQ kit... it came with one different friction disk and two steel "spring discs" that fit into the middle, between the other plates and discs. Apparantly its to make 1st gear take offs more smooth...but it took the place of 1 whole friction disc. So it might depend on what kit you bought?

Mac900 · Jun 16th, 2007, 2:05 am

To get my Barnett setup to work properly I had to remove one friction disc and add an extra steel disc. For a while, recently, the Barnett's total stack height is about 0.5 mm to 1.00 mm too thick. Just remember that you need a metal disc to contact the pressure plate. You can have two metal discs together somewhere, preferably at the bottom of the stack and alternate friction and steel discs from there.

demoni · Jun 16th, 2007, 3:58 pm

Well I guess It's a good thing that I used search before posting on the exact same issue. I installed my barrett clutch last night.

Here it the diagram for the barrett clutch I just installed (don't mind the numbers I was trying to figure out the pack height). My clutch pack also has the spring plate.

The friction zone has drastically changed. Now the clutch is full engaged after about 1-3mm of deflection on the clutch lever.

The total pack is about 38mm my springs are also recessed a bit more then they were before the install. The OEM pack I removed was 35mm, There were 2 steel friction plates all the way in the bastket.

When I pulled out one friction plate to remove 3.3mm of height from the stack the pressure plate would not engage the inner hub of the clutch. I could push it but that would push the slave piston in and displace clutch fluid into the reserve. When I took the pressure off the plate the piston would return to it's origional position.

Mac900 · Jun 17th, 2007, 3:26 am

Once again --- so that we can get everyone on the same page ---- in the clutch's natural state -- the one where you are driving along and not shifting gears -- the clutch is ENGAGED --- does everyone get it?? -- when you pull the clutch lever in you DISENGAGE the clutch -- just like when you press the clutch pedal on a car -- you DISENGAGE the clutch to shift gears -- OK???

now then ---- the Barnett diagram does a disservice to everyone -- in one picture they show the "white dot" concave disc facing outwards (like it should) but contrasted with the overall exploded view just below the specific view they show it facing inwards. WRONG!!! - It should face outwards towards the open end of the clutch basket and the clutch cover!! That is the proper orientation.

Now then -- up until very recently the newer clutch packs provided by Barnett have been 0.5mm to 1.0 mm too thick (according to Barnett and LT Synder). Many personal experiences have proven this to be fact and results in a dragging clutch which is hard to shift and harder to find neutral. The worse case scenerio causes a stall when shifting into 1st (provided you can find neutral in the first place) -- This is where you have to be creative and imaginative and build the proper sequence of metal plates (old and new) and new friction discs to achieve a proper stack height so that you can shift gears as well as find neutral easily and not have any clutch slip on hard acceleration. -- The very newest Barnett clutch packs supposedly have resolved this problem without having the installer compensate for anything.

lubricity · Jun 17th, 2007, 5:31 am

When I put two of them in my bikes this year. It took about 10 miles to seat them good. So go out and run it good to seat it in. And what setting do you have on the adjustable lever. THAT makes abig difference.

ST4R · Jun 17th, 2007, 5:45 am

It doesn't matter which way you orient that dished plate, and I honestly don't believe it even matters where in the pack you place it. It's a spring, and springs don't have a "top" or a "bottom". Half its force is pushing on the fiber plate before it, and half its force is pushing on the fiber plate behind it. I'm curious, and I'd really like to hear more about why you think there's a correct way to orient that plate. Thanks.

As far as stack height - 37mm... 39mm... the only difference between those two heights is (a small amount of) spring pressure. The clutch push rod (and slave and pressure plate) has a starting point and a set amount of travel, The hydraulic system compensates for any (reasonable) stack height difference by changing that starting point (same with the brake system). You have a starting point and a set amount of travel. The total travel is always the same no matter the stack dimension (within limits) or the brake pad thickness.

When you pull the clutch lever you get a certain amount of pressure plate travel. If it's difficult to find neutral, or difficult to shift, then there's air in the system, or the lever isn't adjusted correctly and you're not getting full travel, or a plate is warped and you're not getting full disengagement.

Mac900 · Jun 17th, 2007, 10:54 am

I beg to differ. The stack height is very important when it comes to being able to completely disengage the clutch. If it's too thick the clutch won't disengage and if it's too thin the clutch will slip. 2 to 3mm is a huge difference. The hydraulics only have a certain range of motion. When the clutch pushrod has hit the end of it's travel there needs to be a certain amount of freedom between the friction plates and the metal plates. If the plates are too thick they won't fully disengage. Not all hard shifting and poor disengagement is caused by air in the system. I speak with straight tongue.