» Site Navigation |
|
»
»
»
» Motorcycle Forums
|
» Buyers Guide |
|
|
» Our Partners |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
May 30th, 2007, 6:06 pm
|
#1 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA
Posts: 194
|
1098 clutch (SAFETY ISSUE!!)
A little background:
I recently had my 1098 out on a track for the first time (not my first track day). It was right around the 600 mile mark on the odometer. Up to this point I had dealt with the "stalling" issue at stop lights/intersections but did not figure this would be an issue at the track. I had not had any other problems. The stalling issue WAS NOT an issue at the track. On my second session I exited a turn and shifted from 2nd gear to 3rd. The shift felt heavy and to my horror I looked down and saw the "neutral" light on. Not being sure what had happened and being in the "intermediate" group which was VERY crowded and fast on this date I again pulled in the clutch and tried for 3rd again. Again it did not engage and I then down shift to 1st (mistake!). After down shifting my rear wheel locks and begins to slide out...into the grass four-wheeling I went! Luckily I rode through this and promptly exited the track to look for damage (there was not any damage
I rode the bike again ,on the street, and after about three rides realized that something was progressively getting worse with the clutch. By the end of my last ride I could not get the bike into neutral.
I had the bike serviced and informed them of the issue with the clutch. They said that air had been trapped in the line and that the "fix" was to bleed the line and then slightly puncture a dust seal in the clutch(sorry not sure where this is) because they have observed that the seal is so tight that it starts to work as a vacuum and pushes air into the line which then results in the problems I had. The holes that they punched are very small and should not result in any dirt, etc. getting into the line(so they say  .
Since the service and this remedy I have not had any problems but that "false neutral" almost cost me a 1098 and who knows what else.
Just wanted to post so that others are aware sorry to be so long winded
|
|
|
|
Sponsored Links
|
Advertisement
|
|
May 30th, 2007, 7:56 pm
|
#2 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: nanaimo, british columbia, canada
Posts: 2,159
|
can't see why the clutch would contribute to a false neutral,for that matter i'm surprised that you would use the clutch up shifting at the track.also at only 600 miles the trans is still getting ''run in''.give it a bit more mileage and freash oil before thinking somethings wrong
__________________
giallo 949- impractical,irrational,irresistible ,09 gasgas raga,11-12 gasgas cervantes 250- all in all ,my version of garage nirvana
|
|
|
May 30th, 2007, 8:53 pm
|
#3 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 941
|
"the "fix" was to bleed the line and then slightly puncture a dust seal in the clutch(sorry not sure where this is) because they have observed that the seal is so tight that it starts to work as a vacuum and pushes air into the line which then results in the problems I had".
tell me you're kidding right ?
|
|
|
May 30th, 2007, 9:38 pm
|
#4 (permalink)
|
|
MultiModerator
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Round Rock, Texas, USA
Posts: 1,383
|
Glad to hear you didn't crash. Just remember if you ever get a false neutral don't try downshifting aways go up. You know why...
__________________
Vito
93 750SS - 10 Hypermotard EVO SP - 04 aprilia RSV1000 Factory
|
|
|
May 30th, 2007, 9:40 pm
|
#5 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Northern, VA, USA
Posts: 444
|
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Dave_R_996
tell me you're kidding right ?
|
I too am a bit confused
|
|
|
May 30th, 2007, 10:35 pm
|
#6 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA
Posts: 194
|
To all those who are confused...
The reason I posted this is for just a response like these. I didnt understand what they did and the answer I got after asking a few questions left me puzzled, however, the problem no longer seems to exist. If you have any suggestions or other solutions I am all ears. I am definitely not a mechanic and have some knowledge of the way "mechanical" things work but not the ability to argue with someone especially when the problem is not there any longer. Any help will be appreciated.
As far as let it go a few more miles... get an oil change...and why are you using your clutch to shift up at the track... my response is this:
-Since when does ignoring a problem help,i.e.-give it a few more miles?
-I might not be a mechanic but what good would an oil change do for my clutch
-Why am I using my clutch at the track? Well I am not a racer and not pretending to be but I love riding and a track is a much safer enviroment to practice what skill I do have so...yep...I still use my clutch to shift up!
Just sharing info. and not looking for someone to try an insult my "mechanical knowledge" clearly if I was that knowledgeable I would not be on here looking for advice, tips, etc...Looking for knowledge not arrogance...
|
|
|
May 31st, 2007, 1:24 am
|
#7 (permalink)
|
|
Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: SoCal, CA, USA
Posts: 92
|
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Ducatibomber
-Since when does ignoring a problem help,i.e.-give it a few more miles?
|
I don't recall seeing anyone on here say ignore the problem, rather that clutches tend to be much more notchy, have false neutrals, etc. when brand new as opposed to fully broken in over the first few thousand miles. I don't trust any dealers with my machines and make sure to double check everything they do when I get it back. I've had too many people leave air in my lines, leave bolts half screwed out, and all other manner of incompetence.
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Ducatibomber
-I might not be a mechanic but what good would an oil change do for my clutch 
|
Maybe they were referring to the fact that most motorcycles are broken in using 'dino oil' (aka non-synthetic) to get proper initial wear and break-in on the piston rings and cylinder walls. Racing the bike with dino oil may not directly affect a dry clutch persay, but it is hell on your motor (especially with all those metal shavings from the break-in floating around in there). Give your bike a few thousand miles to seal up and prove its reliability before risking your bike and your body on the track.
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Ducatibomber
-Why am I using my clutch at the track? Well I am not a racer and not pretending to be but I love riding and a track is a much safer enviroment to practice what skill I do have so...yep...I still use my clutch to shift up!
|
Perhaps you've never learned to shift clutchlessly? Just jockey the throttle and give a little positive pressure on the shift lever. I clutchless shift a lot when hauling ass on the track or when drag racing at the strip. Isn't bad for your clutch, and makes shifting a lot faster if you know what you're doing. However, its not necessarily the safest way to shift mid-turn.
Might be a good time to pick up a shop manual and start learning how your bike works...
|
|
|
May 31st, 2007, 1:26 am
|
#8 (permalink)
|
|
Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: SoCal, CA, USA
Posts: 92
|
Aside from that, I'll be sure to check my lines for air bubbles or other BS regarding the clutch when I get my 1098 on the 15th. Hopefully, I'll get lucky and not have any stalling or clutch issues.
|
|
|
May 31st, 2007, 1:57 am
|
#9 (permalink)
|
|
Bobaganoosh
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Los Angeles, CA, USA
Posts: 2,049
|
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Ducatibomber
I had the bike serviced and informed them of the issue with the clutch. They said that air had been trapped in the line and that the "fix" was to bleed the line and then slightly puncture a dust seal in the clutch(sorry not sure where this is) because they have observed that the seal is so tight that it starts to work as a vacuum and pushes air into the line which then results in the problems I had. The holes that they punched are very small and should not result in any dirt, etc. getting into the line(so they say  .
|
I'm calling BS. I dont know 1098s but Ducati dry clutches are hydraulically operated. They key to any hydraulics is a sealed system to build pressure. Poking holes in a dust seal to relieve vacuum? Nope sorry thats BS. My 749 had shifting problems when new... It took a few fluid changes and 3k miles before the clutch finally worked properly. I am thinking the new bike just wasnt broken in yet and you didnt know how to handle a false neutral. Always bump it back up!
I dont know any dealership that will tell a customer that you will face false neutrals and here is what you do. They were feeding you some hot and fresh BS... to make you happy! yum yum...
Reason number 3,124 why I work on my own bikes and cars. I only trust myself.
__________________
In a Michigan State University study that ranked 34 major countries by their citizens' acceptance of the theory of evolution, the United States ranked second to last (thank you, Turkey). 39% of our adult population rejects the concept.
|
|
|
May 31st, 2007, 6:21 am
|
#10 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: chained to a PC, in Oz, (Sydney)
Posts: 609
|
my 0.02c
I think the "dust seal" refers to the little rubber boot behind the clutch lever that seals around the pin that works the piston in the cylinder.
I don't think they are referring to the accordion-like rubber air seal that goes in the reservoir. But I could be wrong.
I can imagine that a vacuum COULD build up behind the dust seal. However I cannot imagine that a good pull on the lever could not easily overcome such a tiny vacuum.
__________________
 Luvlee Jubblees!
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links |
Advertisement
|
|
 |
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|