Camshaft pulley castle bolts - Ducati.ms

enzochi · Jan 8th, 2012, 2:43 pm

I'm working on replacing the camshaft oil seals and adjust a valve on my 1098 and I'm stuck on the bolts to remove the timing belt pulleys. The bolts are pretty seized right now so I hosed them down the some WD-40 and I'm waiting. But I'm wondering if these bolts are reverse threaded? I really don't want to strip these bastards. Also, the manual says to replace these after they've been removed. I didn't see these available at desmotimes. Where can I get a couple of them? And what should they be torqued to when they go back on? I can't find a torque spec anywhere.

pjonte · Jan 8th, 2012, 7:01 pm

Looks like a std RH thread - shouldn't take more than 80 N-m to break it loose.

SELF-L.RING NUT M17X1 999 B/04
Item Number:
70350022A

Qty: Price: 21.99

Ducati Omaha Online Store

Camshaft pulley retaining nut M17x1 71 N-m or 52 ft-lbs GREASE A

enzochi · Jan 8th, 2012, 11:59 pm

Thanks. I tried loosening them but got nowhere. 80Nm was not breaking them free. It was pretty cold in the garage today. They're soaking with some more WD then I'll try it again.

JAFA · Jan 9th, 2012, 1:19 am

What tool do you use to undo those nuts? I've got the same looking nuts on my 900 SS and need to get them off too.

TomTom · Jan 9th, 2012, 2:40 am

Ive taken a few apart and usually they come loose at expected tq, but on one 999 it was a bear to the point I thought the tool was about to go first.

Buy new ones or deform the ones you got, new ones I'd say to sleep well, dont ask me how I know

Mount at ~70Nm from memory, check ws manual, its in there.

Slower than you · Jan 9th, 2012, 10:26 am

Mine were incredibly tight. So tight that I didn't want to torque so hard when they were in the engine. Take the cams out of the engine. I had to make these smooth clamps to hold the sprockets in a vise. Glad I have a lathe....

Then the 4 pin tool started to bend. Not kidding but I had to get a new tool and machine a collar to press fit over the tool to keep the pins aligned. Now it gets interesting. To hold the 4 pin socket on the nut I used a big wood clamp to squeeze the socket against the nut and clamp to the rear end of the cam. A 1/2" breaker bar with a 2 foot piece of pipe was needed. I'd estimate ~300 foot pounds was applied.

Yes they are normal thread. Don't reuse the nuts. They are an interference thread design and only good for one shot. They are about $25 each. Cam seals I think are $14.

edit:
DO NOT put any sealer on the cam seals. Put them in clean and dry. Sealer is slippery when wet and can allow the seals to push out of the head leaving you with a nice big oil leak. The dealer did that for me once. Idiots...

enzochi · Jan 9th, 2012, 11:17 am

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAFA

What tool do you use to undo those nuts? I've got the same looking nuts on my 900 SS and need to get them off too.

I bought two tools off ebay. One to hold the cams in place and the other Unscrew the bolt. I've had pretty good luck with ebay and special tools like this. I'm not really sure about the policy of linking to ebay acutions but if you want to know the sellers, PM and I'll forward you a link. Both we're pretty good.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomTom

Buy new ones or deform the ones you got, new ones I'd say to sleep well, dont ask me how I know

Say no more, I'll order new ones.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slower than you

Then the 4 pin tool started to bend. Not kidding but I had to get a new tool and machine a collar to press fit over the tool to keep the pins aligned. Now it gets interesting. To hold the 4 pin socket on the nut I used a big wood clamp to squeeze the socket against the nut and clamp to the rear end of the cam. A 1/2" breaker bar with a 2 foot piece of pipe was needed. I'd estimate ~300 foot pounds was applied.

Wow. You got me there.. If I have to go through that much trouble, I'm just gonna drop it off at the shop and have them deal with it.

Namor · Jan 9th, 2012, 12:40 pm

Your heroic use of white-out is inspiring. I've always been too timid to take it that far.

enzochi · Jan 9th, 2012, 1:13 pm

Belts always get marked twice on each pulley. Makes it easier to get right when it's going back together. I did the belt on my car a few years ago and was one tooth off and things didn't go so well. Fortunately it didn't destroy anything and the car lived.

pjonte · Jan 9th, 2012, 5:28 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by enzochi

Thanks. I tried loosening them but got nowhere. 80Nm was not breaking them free. It was pretty cold in the garage today. They're soaking with some more WD then I'll try it again.

I'm thinking an electric impact driver might be the way to go..