Advice on removing seized oil drain plug - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 2017, 4:56 pm Thread Starter
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Advice on removing seized oil drain plug

Damn dealer overtightened (or red Loctited) my damn drain plug and I just can't get it out (it was in for broken shift return spring, else I would've done the oil change myself). Breaker bar with a damn fork tube over it for a solid 5 damn feet of leverage and still couldn't break it. Didn't want to push it any further. Torch or heat gun? Best advice? Also, is there Ducatibond or red Loctite actually on this, as in some sort of service bulletin I thought I saw. Bike is a 2013 S Touring.

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 2017, 5:07 pm
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Depending on your relationship with the dealer I would have them break it loose if they are the ones who created the problem. If not, some penetrating oil, wait, add some heat with a torch and try again. Impact gun if necessary.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 16th, 2017, 10:24 pm
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I don't understand- if they installed the plug, why not just run it back to them to fix it?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 2017, 6:24 am
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If red Loctite was used then heat will release it.

Stupid question. You are not trying to tighten it instead of undoing. Easy mistake when is upside down - I've done it myself.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 2017, 6:53 am
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 2017, 8:18 am
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Lay down and look up at it, Righty Tighty.... I'd take it back to the dealer.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 2017, 9:27 am
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Impact Wrench

I would hope they did not put red Loctite on the drain plug. Even if they did I'm not sure heat would help since the oil on the plug would probably cool it.

I would try putting an impact wrench (with lever set to unscrew direction) on the bolt. Much safer than heat or continued force.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 2017, 8:56 pm
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Pro tip; buy and have a replacement drain plug in your hand before fiddling with it any further. Buy a second one and put it in your tool box or parts bin. You will thank me later. The second one is so you will never again need one- as you already have it. Don't buy one and you'll need it in no time.

Same with a spare fill cap BTW, buying one at your leisure is far, far better than the morning of the ride...
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 2017, 10:02 pm
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Pretty much in line with bcMOnster, Texasjeff, etc..

Sorry for your trouble. First of all, a 5 foot lever could allow you to literally fracture the case.
In the old days, that was the length of tool to remove the rear axle nuts off a VW beetle and that is a 36mm nut. I would try to make the dealer responsible for removing it before you break something.

Now, if you use heat, work fast and in a positive fashion. The problem with the torch is that if you don't get it out rapidly, you will most likely end up drilling it because you will turn any lubricant on the threads into abrasive ash.

As mentioned in previous posts, I would suggest impact. If a couple short bursts at the gun's maximum setting doesn't remove it, stop, you will destroy the case threads by hammering on it. Sometimes, a nut or bolt can be spun with a cold chisel or punch on the edge when even an impact tool won't work. If you don't have good manual dexterity, don't try the latter. No need to end up with a blue thumb.

Remember the case is your motor, respect it over the drain plug(s).

Good luck

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 2017, 11:29 pm
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It's been my experience on small allen heads or torx that an impact will ususally just strip them immediately. I prefer using a heat gun instead of a torch on anything I care about. They make aerosol ice in a can. You might try warming the engine, use a heat gun in a circle around the plug, not on the plug. This should expand the diameter of the hole. If that doesn't do it try the aerosol ice on the plug to contract it. If that won't work you're down to drilling and using an easy out. Good luck.
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