Oil intake filter cleaning interval - Ducati.ms

Mr Hankey · Feb 3rd, 2012, 5:40 am

Hit 7500 mi yesterday, so it's time for an oil change. While the oil was draining, I double-checked the manual to see if I also needed to clean the intake filter. According to my free downloaded manual, that filter needed to be cleaned at 600 miles and NEVER AGAIN.
I was thinking that would be a 15,000 mi item, but no. Wondering if someone with an official manual would mind double-checking that for me. Maybe this manual is worth everything I paid for it.

MTScott2 · Feb 3rd, 2012, 5:54 am

Wierd....

You will do no harm checking it every oil change , Every other oil change is what is recommended I think,
But most here change their oil more often than the recommended interval...3000 miles seems to be what a lot of people use as intervals...
Flush that free manual...

joeducati · Feb 3rd, 2012, 7:47 am

I remember reading every other oil change as well

Zenmoto · Feb 3rd, 2012, 11:27 am

I found this useful link Motorcycle Info Pages - MTS12 Servicing & Maintenance > Engine Oil Change when seaching around for a "how-to" just yesterday. In a departure from the past, it seems that ducati has moved away from having us use gasket sealer when replacing the plate that covers the screen filter; there's now a single-use crushable gasket to pick up at the parts counter next time your in instead. This procedure calls for a cleaning every other oil change as well, so having had the 600 service done at the dealer, I'm going to leave it alone this time (I just turned 2,000 miles -- not bad, considering I bought the bike in October). Normally, I go between 2,500 - 3,00 miles between changes, but I thought I'd get to it a bit early, just to remove any residual shavings that might have been produced during the remainder of break-in.

Zenmoto · Feb 3rd, 2012, 11:32 am

BTW, is it true that those of us with center stands have to remove them in order to change the oil (or in the alternate, use a funnel/system of Roman aquaducts to reroute the spent oil flow), as noted in the link I provided above? That seems a bit of a PITA -- and further evidence (beyond where my left foot is pushed forward to rest on the peg) that the center stand may have been something of a design afterthought.

joeducati · Feb 3rd, 2012, 1:02 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zenmoto

BTW, is it true that those of us with center stands have to remove them in order to change the oil (or in the alternate, use a funnel/system of Roman aquaducts to reroute the spent oil flow), as noted in the link I provided above? That seems a bit of a PITA -- and further evidence (beyond where my left foot is pushed forward to rest on the peg) that the center stand may have been something of a design afterthought.

I don't have a center stand, and if I bought a touring model, I would have removed the center stand. I can't imagine you would have to remove the center stand to drain the motor oil, does not make sense. If you put the bike up on the stand, the stand would have to be behind where the sump drains.

Zenmoto · Feb 3rd, 2012, 1:45 pm

I've kept the CS on because I intend to do some distance touring, and would like to be able to clean/lube the chain and plug a flat, should I get one a long way from home. The writeup indicates that one of the bellypan side plates won't come off unless the stand is pulled (though I admit I haven't treid it or gotten my face all up close to figure it out yet). Was planning on having a go this weekend; will let you all know what I figure out.

Buckeye · Feb 3rd, 2012, 4:11 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zenmoto

BTW, is it true that those of us with center stands have to remove them in order to change the oil (or in the alternate, use a funnel/system of Roman aquaducts to reroute the spent oil flow), as noted in the link I provided above? That seems a bit of a PITA -- and further evidence (beyond where my left foot is pushed forward to rest on the peg) that the center stand may have been something of a design afterthought.

Depends. You have to drop the front and pull it downward to get the filter free. You can drain the oil with the pan on BUT...you'll have oil in your belly pan because it all won't go thru the hole in the pan.

C/S an afterthought...who knows. It is a bit of a PITA but here is a little tip that my dealer just told me about and did to my pan:

The holes at the rear of the pan where the c/s bolts go thru: Take a hack saw and cut a piece out of the pan at 9 oclock (for the right side, 3 oclock for the left side) toward the back wheel. What you are doing is to remove about 3/8 of an inch of pan material so you can loosen the c/s bolts a bit and pull the belly pan forward and free...don't have to remove the c/s. Works like a charm.

I don't have pics of this mod but if y'all want a couple or if this is confusion...holler and I'll try to take a few.