Replacing front sprocket on a 1200

[Bob_Cooper]

Has anyone been able to replace the front sprocket without splitting the chain first? Cheers

[minusone]

Yes.
Make sure you have a sprocket that matches the chain.

[sterik]

Yes. No problem. Did it this weekend. Replaced a 15 teeth for a 14 teeth. Take the masterclutch of. This gives you some space. There was another link for the procedure. Can't find the link but here is the text:

1. Take off the clutch slave (not really necessary but it gives some room to work) This is a good time to clean the back of the slave from chain lube and road grime. Be careful not to loose the o-ring.

2. Take off the sprocket cover

3. Punch back the bent part of the safety washer

4. Loosen the sprocket nut. An impact wrench makes it really easy. If you don't have one, put the bike in 2nd and have somebody step on the rear brake.

5. Don't take the nut off yet and put the bike back in N

6. Take off the rear splash guard

7. Loosen the 2 big allen bolts on the swing arm (like you would do to adjust the chain) Open them all the way or take them out.

8. With the provided (piece of sh...) C shaped spanner tool, loosen the chain. Slide the chain off the rear sprocket (towards you makes it easier later) Watch your fingers!

9. Now the fun part begins, be patient because space is very tight. Take off the sprocket nut and the safety washer. Take off the front sprocket. Pull the chain as much forward to the engine housing as you can. If you have a second person have him / her hold it in place while you work the top and the bottom. As I said, it's very tight but it will come out eventually.

10. Now is a good time to straighten the safety washer a little bit.

11. Put everything back together in reverse order. Torque for the sprocket nut is 186 Nm +/- 5% (Thanks Motozen!).

Don't forget to put the bike in urban mode single rider which is rear preload at level 1 to adjust the chain tension.

Note : The two bolts on the rear hub are very critical. Do not over tighten them as you could damage the bearings. I torqued mine to 35 Nm 1-2-1

Now take your wheelie monster out for a spin, be careful, the bike feels very different, take your time to get used to it.

[Bob_Cooper]

Originally Posted by minusone

Yes.
Make sure you have a sprocket that matches the chain.

I have a 530 14t sprocket to replace the original 15t one but I can't get the chain off over the original front sprocket even with the chain fully loosened and the clutch slave cylinder removed.
I had a look in my workshop manual and it does say break the chain to remove the front sprocket but I wondered if anyone had managed it without removing the chain.

[Bob_Cooper]

Originally Posted by sterik

Yes. No problem. Did it this weekend. Replaced a 15 teeth for a 14 teeth. Take the masterclutch of. This gives you some space. There was another link for the procedure. Can't find the link but here is the text:

1. Take off the clutch slave (not really necessary but it gives some room to work) This is a good time to clean the back of the slave from chain lube and road grime. Be careful not to loose the o-ring.

2. Take off the sprocket cover

3. Punch back the bent part of the safety washer

4. Loosen the sprocket nut. An impact wrench makes it really easy. If you don't have one, put the bike in 2nd and have somebody step on the rear brake.

5. Don't take the nut off yet and put the bike back in N

6. Take off the rear splash guard

7. Loosen the 2 big allen bolts on the swing arm (like you would do to adjust the chain) Open them all the way or take them out.

8. With the provided (piece of sh...) C shaped spanner tool, loosen the chain. Slide the chain off the rear sprocket (towards you makes it easier later) Watch your fingers!

9. Now the fun part begins, be patient because space is very tight. Take off the sprocket nut and the safety washer. Take off the front sprocket. Pull the chain as much forward to the engine housing as you can. If you have a second person have him / her hold it in place while you work the top and the bottom. As I said, it's very tight but it will come out eventually.

10. Now is a good time to straighten the safety washer a little bit.

11. Put everything back together in reverse order. Torque for the sprocket nut is 186 Nm +/- 5% (Thanks Motozen!).

Don't forget to put the bike in urban mode single rider which is rear preload at level 1 to adjust the chain tension.

Note : The two bolts on the rear hub are very critical. Do not over tighten them as you could damage the bearings. I torqued mine to 35 Nm 1-2-1

Now take your wheelie monster out for a spin, be careful, the bike feels very different, take your time to get used to it.

OK, thanks for this, looks like I wasn't trying hard enough, but it seemed to me after about 30mins of trying that there just wasn't enough space (it is ever so tight)

I guess I must try harder - it was always the same in my school reports....

[sterik]

As it's said it is very tight to get the sprocket off. I had also a 14t/530 to replace a 15t/530. The chain as far as possible to the engine and turn the sprocket clock and anti-clockwise it wil come off. No testdrive because of all the salt on the roads in the Netherlands.

[Bob_Cooper]

Are you sure you mean position the chain as close to the engine as possible - in my experience there was less room that way, it seemed to be more likely to go over the front sprocket if I pulled chain and sprocket as far off together as possible - am I wrong?

[Bob_Cooper]

Think I am misunderstanding you - I think you mean pull the chain as far forward as possible (towards the front of the bike) - not in and out towards the engine housing....did you have the chain and sprocket as far out along the splines when you were moving the chain as far forward as possible to remove the sprocket?

[sterik]

Correct, to the front of the bike. Keep trying.....

[dougpirahna]

I'll add that it helped to slide the sprocket out a little toward the end of the shaft and it gives you more clearance. Work with it and it'll come off without splitting the chain.