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Old Jan 22nd, 2012, 9:26 pm   #1 (permalink)
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Question Star Tron fuel stabilizer

Anyone used this for winter storage or to treat the alcohol in the fuel. What with expanding gas tanks this may be a good idea.
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Old Jan 23rd, 2012, 6:36 pm   #2 (permalink)
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Yup! I swear by it and use it in all my gas powered machinery. It should not just be used for winter storage, you should use it in every tank. It is supposed to keep the gas and ethanol from separating. This leads to more efficient burining of the gas, producing better gas mileage and performance. Unfortunately, I wouldn't count on it from helping with the tank swelling issue. The best bet (if your tank hasn't expanded) is to drain it, remove the tank, wash it out with warm water and detergent a couple of times, then treat it with the Caswell Coatings epoxy. There are plenty of forum topics on this subject. I had my tank replaced under warranty, then did this treatment and my tank is still perfect.

Good luck
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Old Jan 25th, 2012, 1:13 pm   #3 (permalink)
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I like Sea Foam (better than Sta-bil, IMHO) for winter storage. I think Amsoil makes a fuel stabilizer (to address ethanol issues) as well, but I haven't heard anything + or - on it's performance. I do like their oil & filters quite a bit, though, so might give it a shot. Would love to see a comparo in MCN on these types of products, but it would require a fairly long testing time & multiple bike owners willing to use the stuff regularly and then have their rides torn down to get a true read on effectiveness, pros & cons, etc.

I've also wondered about trying the B&G intake / fuel injection / valve train cleaner/additive, which is the only product of its kind that I use in my car on a regular (every 7,000 - 8,000 miles) basis.
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Old Jan 26th, 2012, 1:31 am   #4 (permalink)
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Even as I post this, I know nobody will swayed from their position on subjects such as this…But I will give my opinion anyway, as somebody who works in the petroleum industry and spends huge amounts of time regularly testing all types of fuels to full “A specification” including additives…”Additives are a way for the industry to make money, and is rarely ever needed”…There are additives with specific purposes such as correcting stability issues, However it is never added in the industry unless it is to correct off specification problems so they can sale the product…It’s expensive and also has undesirable effects as well. I have access to any additives or type of fuel I want, and do not run additives…if my fuel actually needed them, I would drain the fuel and use fresh fuel…The BEST option hands down every time! “ we’re talking a few gallons, not 20 million gallons.

Before somebody chimes in, Yes the industry includes their own additive packages blended in all fuels (Shell V-POWER or injector cleaners etc) and I am not referring to that, just addressing buying your own commercial additives to dope your own fuel which 99% of the time is not needed anyway.
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Old Jan 26th, 2012, 7:10 am   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiDuc View Post
Even as I post this, I know nobody will swayed from their position on subjects such as this…But I will give my opinion anyway, as somebody who works in the petroleum industry and spends huge amounts of time regularly testing all types of fuels to full “A specification” including additives…”Additives are a way for the industry to make money, and is rarely ever needed”…There are additives with specific purposes such as correcting stability issues, However it is never added in the industry unless it is to correct off specification problems so they can sale the product…It’s expensive and also has undesirable effects as well. I have access to any additives or type of fuel I want, and do not run additives…if my fuel actually needed them, I would drain the fuel and use fresh fuel…The BEST option hands down every time! “ we’re talking a few gallons, not 20 million gallons.

Before somebody chimes in, Yes the industry includes their own additive packages blended in all fuels (Shell V-POWER or injector cleaners etc) and I am not referring to that, just addressing buying your own commercial additives to dope your own fuel which 99% of the time is not needed anyway.
Bravo you hit the nail on the head.Beside that if you ride year round you won't need additives !
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Old Jan 26th, 2012, 8:20 am   #6 (permalink)
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I'll side with TiDuc on additives....though I do find myself using them at times. For long term storage I've used Sta-Bil, a few people I know in the motorcycle industry swear by K100-MG K100 Fuel Treatment Online: Buy Online

I've only used Seafoam in my fuel based on my Ducati tech's recommendation that it helps running, not as a stabilizer. Not sure if it really does anything sort of like vitamins if you eat right...
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Old Jan 27th, 2012, 9:48 am   #7 (permalink)
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I use the Startron

Cant say I am religious about it but my dealer recommended it and it you buy the diesel version ( same product, higher concentration, less needed) it is actually relatively inexpensive. I talked to the guy who runs that place in Florida and he made a compelling argument for it. ( of course he is selling it) I have used it on my BMW GS , Husky 250 and Multi and they all run great. I have heard to stay away from Shell gas. ????
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Old Jan 30th, 2012, 10:05 am   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiDuc View Post
...just addressing buying your own commercial additives to dope your own fuel which 99% of the time is not needed anyway.
In the US, most gasoline sold at pumps is actual E10, an ethanol blend, 10% of which is ethanol.

This Wikipedia article about Ethanol fuel that references trustworthy sources states:

Quote:
Ethanol is hygroscopic, meaning it will absorb water vapor directly from the atmosphere. Because absorbed water dilutes the fuel value of the ethanol (although it suppresses engine knock) and may cause phase separation of ethanol-gasoline blends, containers of ethanol fuels must be kept tightly sealed. This high miscibility with water means that ethanol cannot be efficiently shipped through modern pipelines, like liquid hydrocarbons, over long distances. Mechanics also have seen increased cases of damage to small engines, in particular, the carburetor, attributable to the increased water retention by ethanol in fuel.
Another Wikipedia article about ethanol fuel explains:

Quote:
Disadvantages to ethanol fuel blends when used in engines designed exclusively for gasoline include lowered fuel mileage, metal corrosion, deterioration of plastic and rubber fuel system components, clogged fuel systems, fuel injectors, and carburetors, delamination of composite fuel tanks, varnish buildup on engine parts, damaged or destroyed internal engine components, water absorption, fuel phase separation, and shortened fuel storage life. Many major auto, marine, motorcycle, lawn equipment, generator, and other internal combustion engine manufacturers have issued warnings and precautions about the use of ethanol-blended gasolines of any type in their engines, and the Federal Aviation Administration and major aviation engine manufacturers have prohibited the use of automotive gasolines blended with ethanol in light aircraft due to safety issues from fuel system and engine damage.
Unlike automobiles that are sold in the US that have vacuum-sealed fuel systems, every motorcycle and scooter that I've owned has a fuel tank that is open to the outside air through a breather/expansion line. Many years ago, when my state mandated E10 fuel at pumps, all of my two-wheeled vehicles started suffering from phase separation when they were stored for more than a month or so. Winter storage in a cold garage would lead to enough water in the fuel system that the tank and lines would have to be drained. That's when I first started using STA-BIL and then STA-BIL Marine Formula. But even then, after a long winter, some of my motorcycles would not start.

Three years ago, I switched to Star-Tron diesel formula. Now, my motorcycles always start on the first push of the starter button, even after months of storage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TiDuc View Post
...if my fuel actually needed them, I would drain the fuel and use fresh fuel…The BEST option hands down every time! we’re talking a few gallons, not 20 million gallons.
I'd rather be riding my motorcycle than draining the fuel, cleaning my fuel lines, and taking the fuel to the local recycling center on hazardous-waste day.

My direct experience is that Star Tron works to prevent phase separation and water absorption. Before you store your motorcycle, pour twice the recommended amount of Star Tron into your tank, then fill the tank with gasoline. Run the motor just long enough that the treated fuel makes it all the way through your fuel and ignition system. Also, make sure the tank is full, because the less air in your tank, the less moisture will be pulled into your tank through the breather/expansion line during storage.
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