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Nov 24th, 2011, 7:10 am
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Cave Creek, AZ, USA
Posts: 250
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DES pre-load?
I’ve looked and looked in the owner manual but I’m just not seeing how to set the front pre-load.
What am I missing?
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Nov 24th, 2011, 7:15 am
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#2 (permalink)
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Prolific Poster Award
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA HWY 2,
Posts: 4,418
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The front preload is adjusted by turning the nuts at the top of the fork tubes. Turning the nuts to the right increases the preload, to the left decreases it.
__________________
2012 Ducati MTS1200St Ti
2003 Aprilia Tuono Racing
past: Ducatis, Aprilias, a Guzzi Stelvio, a Husky, and some BMWs as well.
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Nov 24th, 2011, 8:55 am
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Cave Creek, AZ, USA
Posts: 250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oalvarez
The front preload is adjusted by turning the nuts at the top of the fork tubes. Turning the nuts to the right increases the preload, to the left decreases it.
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Thanks 'O'. But I was wondering about the electronic model as opposed to conventional suspension. Unless you're telling me that the front preload adjustment for the DES is manual? In which case one just pries up the rubber boots and has at it as with conventional forks?
Thanx.
AK
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Nov 24th, 2011, 9:30 am
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fort Worth, Tx, USA
Posts: 273
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DES preload...
Yes the front fork preload is manually preloaded. I imagine putting preload stepper motors inside the forks would be a bit difficult and very expensive.
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Nov 24th, 2011, 10:08 am
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Cave Creek, AZ, USA
Posts: 250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fw1421
Yes the front fork preload is manually preloaded. I imagine putting preload stepper motors inside the forks would be a bit difficult and very expensive.
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That makes sense. Stuffing motors for both rebound and preload on top of the fork tubes would have gotten a little busy. And expensive. And homely.
So I'll just get the wrenches out, set the front sag, and proceed with everything else by buttons and switches.
Thanks much.
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Nov 24th, 2011, 12:58 pm
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#6 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Carrollton, TX, United States
Posts: 42
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Don't overlook Andy's pages devoted to the DES suspension. There's a fairly complete technical description of the fork preload setting procedure there:
Motorcycle Info Pages - MTS1200 Technical > MTS1200 Ohlins / DES Suspension
'Fork preload is adjustable over a 15mm range by turning the blue hex nuts at the top of the forks. One turn equals 1mm of preload, and to adjust, first disconnect the adjuster servo wiring by pulling back the rubber cover over the electrical connector at the top of the fork and using a small screwdriver to depress the connector’s locking tab. It should be obvious upon inspection. The adjusters have no indicator lines as do some bikes; they remain flush with the fork caps and are internally threaded, mating up with externally-threaded "preload tubes" atop the springs. There's a stop at both minimum and maximum preload. DON’T force the adjusters (they should turn easily) as doing so can distort the preload tube, causing friction on the damping actuator rod that passes through the tube to the valves located deep within the fork tubes. The adjuster servos produce very little torque and can't overcome any such friction. Because the forks are relatively long travel (for an Ohlins road fork), Matt suggested that 55mm of loaded sag (about 1/3 of the 170mm total travel) is a good starting point for adjustment, vs. the more common Ohlins suggestion of about 30mm.'
Take your time, have fun, and post your experience here!
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Nov 24th, 2011, 1:57 pm
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Cave Creek, AZ, USA
Posts: 250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fupped Duc
Don't overlook Andy's pages devoted to the DES suspension. There's a fairly complete technical description of the fork preload setting procedure there:
Motorcycle Info Pages - MTS1200 Technical > MTS1200 Ohlins / DES Suspension
'Fork preload is adjustable over a 15mm range by turning the blue hex nuts at the top of the forks. One turn equals 1mm of preload, and to adjust, first disconnect the adjuster servo wiring by pulling back the rubber cover over the electrical connector at the top of the fork and using a small screwdriver to depress the connector’s locking tab. It should be obvious upon inspection. The adjusters have no indicator lines as do some bikes; they remain flush with the fork caps and are internally threaded, mating up with externally-threaded "preload tubes" atop the springs. There's a stop at both minimum and maximum preload. DON’T force the adjusters (they should turn easily) as doing so can distort the preload tube, causing friction on the damping actuator rod that passes through the tube to the valves located deep within the fork tubes. The adjuster servos produce very little torque and can't overcome any such friction. Because the forks are relatively long travel (for an Ohlins road fork), Matt suggested that 55mm of loaded sag (about 1/3 of the 170mm total travel) is a good starting point for adjustment, vs. the more common Ohlins suggestion of about 30mm.'
Take your time, have fun, and post your experience here!
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Gotta love Andy. Thanks for pointing the way.
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Nov 26th, 2011, 9:24 pm
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Anchorage, AK, USA
Posts: 221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKjitsu
That makes sense. Stuffing motors for both rebound and preload on top of the fork tubes would have gotten a little busy. And expensive. And homely.
So I'll just get the wrenches out, set the front sag, and proceed with everything else by buttons and switches.
Thanks much.
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Just remember to unplug the wires first so they don't spin round and round.
__________________
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'06 Triumph 1050 Speed Triple w/Leo Vince system (traded 5/17/12 for a new S3R - yes, it was that good)
'04 Kawi KLX125 (play & ice bike)
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