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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 18th, 2017, 7:45 pm Thread Starter
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More clutch questions

My timing sucks. Finally decided to tear into my clutch, so my bike is disassembled in the garage. And now it's jumped from upper 40's to upper 70's...

Anyway... when I got the plates, hub and basket out of the way I found oil in the case. Mixed with the dust from the plates, it created a thin layer of sludge at the bottom of the case. From what I gather, it could (hopefully) be as simple as worn o-rings on the pushrod. Everything looks intact in there and seals good. Is there a good way to determine the source of the oil?

I'm also confused about the drum. I'd read the older STs had steel drums that could be swapped out with newer aluminum drums to cut some rotating weight. So I got an alu drum off a newer ST. Turns out the one in my '99 ST2 is also aluminum. So is it the actual 'plate holder hub' that is aluminum in the later models? On mine, this part is definitely steel. And how does one separate this piece from the drum? I don't see any way to separate the pieces, though my replacement drum is missing the plat holder assembly (pic below).

And finally... the parts diagram shows an o-ring between the clutch control pin and the pressure plate bearing, but when I disassembled mine, there was none. I'm pretty sure my setup hasn't been molested by PO's and the pin was stuck in the p-plate bearing, so I'm sure it didn't fall out. Anyone have any experience with this?

Appreciate any help.


And for those interested weight-watchers my stock steel basket weighed in at 1102g versus the replacement DP alu basket at 446g (1.45 pounds lighter.)

My stock pressure plate (starting to disintegrate at the spring holes) weighs 294g and the new "lightweight" plate from Houston Superbikes weighed 332g. Both are alu.


'99 ST2
'07 Monster 695 - Sold
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 18th, 2017, 10:18 pm
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the basket became aluminium in 2001 for most models.

the centre bit is called the drum or hub, and is a two piece part, aluminium outer with a steel inner and cush drive rubbers between them. you have two of the aluminium outer in your pic. to separate the middle one, you push the steel inner out the back of the aluminium outer. 12 triangular rubber blocks will fall out. if you look in the centre of the steel part, where the splines are that go over the input shaft, you can see the o-ring.

the big star washer tends to wear its way into the front of the hub, so put some anti seize paste between it and the hub.

the pushrod has two o-rings at the other end. normal for it to stick in the pp bearing. the pressure plate is machined from the back, so you will see through the outer edge of the spring pockets. it's not wear. the bearings also fail, so you need to check that otherwise the pushrod spins and that wears it and/or the slave piston or spins the slave piston and ruins the seal.

there is a needle roller bearing and seal in the end of the input shaft, make sure they're ok and the shaft is not worn there. oil in the housing is usually the large seal behind the clutch basket.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 18th, 2017, 10:48 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the info, Brad --appreciate it.

The 'missing' o-ring I was referring to is #36 (pic below). Looks like to goes between the pplate bearing and the pushrod pin. It was not present on mine, which got me wondering.

How does one replace the seal behind the basket? Is it as simple as pulling it out with a pick and pressing a new one in?



'99 ST2
'07 Monster 695 - Sold
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 2017, 2:11 am
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36 doesn't exist.

the big seal is pretty tight, and you need a good tool to knock it in.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 2017, 8:38 am
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Care is needed when looking at parts diagrams! There is a seal for the push rod at the clutch side, but it is not shown in the clutch drawing. You have to look at the transmission drawing. The push rod slips through the trans shaft.

I needed to replace item 28 on my bike. It is a tiny seal. Order two, so you can "practice" with the first one you'll destroy!

Seal 93783.0812

There is also a needle bearing, mine was fine. Should check it. I repacked mine with grease.

Needle bearing 76270.0827

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 2017, 11:48 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS904 View Post
I needed to replace item 28 on my bike. It is a tiny seal. Order two, so you can "practice" with the first one you'll destroy!

Seal 93783.0812
This part was sitting on my pushrod when I removed it (rod stuck to pplate, so pulled it from the clutch side)

I realized it belonged in the main shaft, but just kinda pops in there. Seems like it will pop back out just as easily, which probably isn't good. What am I missing?

'99 ST2
'07 Monster 695 - Sold
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 2017, 11:54 am
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Mine is in there securely. PITA to get it out, had to use a pick and basically destroy it in the process, and a little tricky to tap it in because it's pretty small. It seals around the push rod, is in the push runs through the seal. If yours is popping out, that would pretty much nail down the need to order one...
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 2017, 1:24 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradblack View Post
36 doesn't exist.

the big seal is pretty tight, and you need a good tool to knock it in.
I recently went through this process on my '97 ST2.

I drilled 2 small holes (1mm) opposite each other in the large seal, and screwed in some self tapping screws. Then using those, prized out out the seal a bit at a time on each side in the time honoured way.
I replaced this seal with a locally sourced seal, as had the Previous Owner ( or someone), but it leaked straight away. I then ordered the OEM part from the local Ducati dealer and discovered A: The OEM seal is Viton, and B: it's a significantly more robust design.
These seals aren't all that easy to get in because the input shaft is in the way and the flange engages on the seal at about the same time as you are trying to get the outside aligned and tapped in. It's hard to get it started in square. Fortunately I had been able to practice on my first failed seal, so second time was quite a bit easier!
No problems since, with the correct seal.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 2017, 11:00 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks again for all the replies. Really appreciate it.

Just a note... if you look at the center of the original hub (pic above) you can see where it either had a raised lip, or was becoming deformed (can't tell which). In the pic below, you can also see a sliver of it that I found in the case when I opened it up.

I'm guessing the raised lip on the newer replacement must address that issue.


'99 ST2
'07 Monster 695 - Sold

Last edited by d3vi@nt; Mar 21st, 2017 at 10:43 pm.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 2017, 6:21 am
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the big star washer eats its way into the hub. you can add another washer to take up the clearance. i have seen up to 4.

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