New to Ducati, have an issue with my ST3 - Ducati.ms

prshguy · May 21st, 2007, 2:24 pm

Hi All,

I'm a newbie here and wanted to say hi. I'm really looking forward to getting to know the ins and outs of my new baby. I need some help and was hoping someone could answer a couple of questions for me please.

Just purchased an 04 ST3, 5K mi. and in near showroom condition but have an issue with the display reading for estimated mileage etc. When I push the B button it will start to show the various data but only for about 1-2 seconds then the yellow check engine light pops on. The light doesn't come on during regular riding, only when the B button is pushed and doesn't matter if the engine is running or not.

Does this sound like a bad cluster like I've seen mentioned or is there a sensor that maybe has failed or disconnected? And if it is the cluster, how is Ducati about handling recalls that are late?

Second issue is when slowing down and the rpm get below about 3K, it starts lurching badly and will sometimes die when coming to a stop or idling. It is very lumpy, more so than seems normal and wants to stall.

The previous owner installed the DP exhaust and ECU so I'm guessing/hoping the new ECU is not bad. I saw mentioned in another thread that the 04 ST3 had an issue with the exhaust valve return spring, does this sound like what my bike is experiencing?

RAMM241 · May 22nd, 2007, 11:11 am

I had my dash cluster replaced due to it not showing any of the MPG, trip, and stuff like that. I had the light go on a couple of times too. Had the dealer replace the dash cluster. Bad thing is they cant put the original miles on the dash cluster on your new one. So my bike lost 1500 miles.

I would take it back to where you bought it and have thme fix the problems..

gregcm · May 22nd, 2007, 11:50 am

Quote:

Originally Posted by prshguy

Hi All,

I'm a newbie here and wanted to say hi. I'm really looking forward to getting to know the ins and outs of my new baby. I need some help and was hoping someone could answer a couple of questions for me please.

Just purchased an 04 ST3, 5K mi. and in near showroom condition but have an issue with the display reading for estimated mileage etc. When I push the B button it will start to show the various data but only for about 1-2 seconds then the yellow check engine light pops on. The light doesn't come on during regular riding, only when the B button is pushed and doesn't matter if the engine is running or not.

Does this sound like a bad cluster like I've seen mentioned or is there a sensor that maybe has failed or disconnected? And if it is the cluster, how is Ducati about handling recalls that are late?

Second issue is when slowing down and the rpm get below about 3K, it starts lurching badly and will sometimes die when coming to a stop or idling. It is very lumpy, more so than seems normal and wants to stall.

The previous owner installed the DP exhaust and ECU so I'm guessing/hoping the new ECU is not bad. I saw mentioned in another thread that the 04 ST3 had an issue with the exhaust valve return spring, does this sound like what my bike is experiencing?

I don't know anything about the cluster problem, but my new (about 1700 miles) '06 ST3s does the lumpy/bucking thing at low speeds under about 3000 rpm as well. From what I've read here and in magazines, I think this is just kind of normal for these engines. Even though the Desmo3 engine is designed for lower end torque and for more "touring" type duty, it is still a Ducati engine and thus is a thoroughbred, somewhat ill-suited for a lot of in-town duty. This is NOT a put down of the bike at all, just the opposite. The quality and type of power that this engine puts down is what makes it fun when you finally get out of town and into the curving backroads.

A suggestion, if you have not already done so: gear it down a bit. Before I even took delivery, I had my dealership install a 14T countershaft sprocket. The same effect can be had, I'm told, by going UP 2 or 3 teeth on the rear sprocket. Either way, you'll notice a positive difference in low speed tractability by lowering the stock gearing. And, I'm still getting around 50 MPG on the my still relatively new engine.

Good luck.

Greg Mitchell
Columbia, MO
2006 ST3s
2000 Kawasaki W650 cafe
1982 Kawasaki GPz550 stock/mint

prshguy · May 22nd, 2007, 1:52 pm

Greg - I'm curious about dropping the countershaft a tooth, can you recall what rpm you're turning at 70, IIRC mine with the 15-tooth is around 4000. I like the idea of dropping the gearing a bit since first is kind of tall but don't want a busy motor when on the freeway.

gregcm · May 22nd, 2007, 2:53 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by prshguy

Greg - I'm curious about dropping the countershaft a tooth, can you recall what rpm you're turning at 70, IIRC mine with the 15-tooth is around 4000. I like the idea of dropping the gearing a bit since first is kind of tall but don't want a busy motor when on the freeway.

With the 14T countershaft I'm turning about 4300 at an indicated 70 MPH (indicated being the key word there, I think my speedo function reads about 3-5 MPH fast).

prshguy · May 22nd, 2007, 5:39 pm

Okay, thanks for the help, sounds worth a try.

ducat · May 23rd, 2007, 3:07 pm

The lurching thing sounds like a state of tune thing. The ECU has an adjustment for CO% that the dealer does when fitting new exhaust ect to the bike. I think a TB sync and co% trim will make a world of difference.

prshguy · May 23rd, 2007, 3:17 pm

Is there a tech article somewhere that shows how to sync the TBs? I have the carbstix and have synced all of my other bikes in the past, but since I'm new to Ducs, don't know where to look for the tech info.

Stopped at the dealer last night and had them look at my dash problem. They called today and said the reason the check light comes on when I try to acces my trip computer info is because there is a fault code stored. So, I'm going to check my codes tonight but I haven't seen anywhere how to clear a code. Can someone tell me the procedure?

ducat · May 23rd, 2007, 4:08 pm

Sorry, but you have to see someone with a mathisis unit for your Duc to clear codes. Most likely a dealer. If you have syncronzed Throttle Bodies before its the same on any bike. With yours you can use the fast idle cam ( its whats attached to the other end of the cable for your cold start idle lever on the left h-bar) to keep your engine speed at 2000 to 2500 rpm and close the air bypass screws (lightly seat) then adjust the TB linkage to get sync between them. You want to do this quickly as possible or use a really good blower fan to keep your engine temp in check. After that you set the air screws at aprox 1300 rpm idle to sync (turn off fast idle first) . You will probably have to go back and forth after you adjust air screws to get everything even.

prshguy · May 23rd, 2007, 5:02 pm

Bummer about the codes but thanks very much for the TB info!! R.