ST3 Rear brake pads

[dmrst]

So I'm tired of the noise the rear brake makes on my bike. Seems the rear brake once used (even lightly) makes a sound not unlike a large truck coming to a stop. While not all bad, it is irritating enough to me to try a fix. I made sure nothing was loose and I've cleaned the rotor, the caliper and all around the rear brake in hopes of removing the noise. Sometimes it seems to eliminate the issue for a few miles, and then as soon as I'm sure I have slain the noise dragon, it returns, usually louder than before.

I've talked to my dealer and several other knowledgeable folks and the best option seems to be to replace the pads and see if that doesn't stop the noise. Rear pads are in the $30 range (give or take a few bucks), so it appears a small investment to see if this resolves the issue.

So here is my query. Has anyone else experienced a similar noise and have you:
1) Done anything about it?
2) If #1 is yes, what did you do?
3) Did it solve the problem?
and
4) If the fix involved replacing the pads, which ones did you get?

If you never had the problem but have replaced the rear pads on your ST, do you have a preference of manufacturers or any that you don't like? If there are some you don't like, some explanation would be nice (i.e., they were NOISY, they galled the shiite out of my rotors, etc.).

As always, thanks in advance for your thoughtful response

[ST4R]

You could change pads and I'm certain many people will reply that they changed to so-and-so pads and that eliminated the noises.

I had the same squealing noise with my stock rear brake on a 2001 ST4 and all I did was pull the pads, grind a 45 degree angle (1/8 inch wide is plenty) onto the leading edge of the pads, and that was that. No more noise. You can use a piece of sandpaper, or a belt sander, or a bench grinder. It doesn't even need to be accurate.

It works. You'll lose some rear brake power but not much and who cares? Theoretically you'll also pick up some additional scoring over the years but again, who cares? Road crap can get under the pads when the leading edge is not sharp. I don't think you or I are going to notice it but it's one minor disadvantage with the 45 degree trick and I wanted to mention it. I did it for 2 years and the rotor was smooth as silk, and the rear brake power was more than adequate the entire time.

The leading edge of a brake pad is the point where brake "initial bite" and "feel" begins. I'm not a brake engineer but I know that the leading edge is a big deal. That's why Ducati (and everyone else) went to two small brake pads on each side up front (on their higher performance calipers) vs. one large pad on each side - twice the number of leading edges.

Me? After a year or two I changed wheels and went with an iron rear rotor and Ferodo Platinum pads... but you don't need to do all that. I wanted to remove unsprung, rotating weight, and I had this money that was burning a hole in my pocket.

I like Ferodo Platinum pads. I've tried several brands and compounds, and I just plain like the feel of the Platinum pads.

But the 45 degree trick will eliminate the noise.

[ST3S]

Thank you both for this information. My 06 ST3s rear brake emits a terrible loud howl just before the bikes comes to a complete stop. Geez Louise. I'll pull the pads - again - and try the 45 deg. bevel.

Thanks.

[milznmilz]

Originally Posted by ST4R

I had the same squealing noise with my stock rear brake on a 2001 ST4 and all I did was pull the pads, grind a 45 degree angle (1/8 inch wide is plenty) onto the leading edge of the pads, and that was that. No more noise. You can use a piece of sandpaper, or a belt sander, or a bench grinder. It doesn't even need to be accurate.

.....so no EBC HH sintered pads, just some sandpaper? Interesting. Thanks ST4R.

[ST4R]

How about everyone post back with their results? It worked for me but that's just anecdotal evidence. It would be nice to see if it works for others too.

[Mike]

Originally Posted by dmrst

So here is my query. Has anyone else experienced a similar noise and have you:
1) Done anything about it?
2) If #1 is yes, what did you do?
3) Did it solve the problem?
and
4) If the fix involved replacing the pads, which ones did you get?

This fix worked for me and the noise has never returned. I still have the OEM pads after 30,000+ miles, no noise and enough power on tap to lock up the rear wheel if I want:

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthre...rake#post44832

[dmrst]

Originally Posted by ST4R

You could change pads and I'm certain many people will reply that they changed to so-and-so pads and that eliminated the noises.

I had the same squealing noise with my stock rear brake on a 2001 ST4 and all I did was pull the pads, grind a 45 degree angle (1/8 inch wide is plenty) onto the leading edge of the pads, and that was that. No more noise. You can use a piece of sandpaper, or a belt sander, or a bench grinder. It doesn't even need to be accurate.

It works. You'll lose some rear brake power but not much and who cares? Theoretically you'll also pick up some additional scoring over the years but again, who cares? Road crap can get under the pads when the leading edge is not sharp. I don't think you or I are going to notice it but it's one minor disadvantage with the 45 degree trick and I wanted to mention it. I did it for 2 years and the rotor was smooth as silk, and the rear brake power was more than adequate the entire time.
...

ST4R, Thanks for the feedback. I had heard that notion as well. I will definitely give it a shot. The bike has 9,000 mile though and while the pads are no where near worn out, I was thinking that since I have them off, I might as well throw on new ones (again, the $30 seems worth the expense and not worth pulling the pads a seond time). For those with newer pads, no sense in throwing them away for sure.

Originally Posted by Mike

This fix worked for me and the noise has never returned. I still have the OEM pads after 30,000+ miles, no noise and enough power on tap to lock up the rear wheel if I want:

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthr...brake#post44832

Mike, I had tried the deglazing notion in a couple of fashinons, including what you mentioned. To be honest, it just seemed to make mine worse Definitely worth a shot though if someone else has the problem and the pads are new, cause it would be a lot more fun than pulling the pads. The way I had figured it, if it saved me from pulling the pads AND I got to ride more, well, nothing wrong with that!

[dmrst]

Originally Posted by ST4R

How about everyone post back with their results? It worked for me but that's just anecdotal evidence. It would be nice to see if it works for others too.

Good idea...I will definitely post my results once the new pads show up.

[Mike]

Originally Posted by dmrst

Mike, I had tried the deglazing notion in a couple of fashinons, including what you mentioned. To be honest, it just seemed to make mine worse Definitely worth a shot though if someone else has the problem and the pads are new, cause it would be a lot more fun than pulling the pads. The way I had figured it, if it saved me from pulling the pads AND I got to ride more, well, nothing wrong with that!

Yeah, the technique is not for the faint of heart, not everyone likes to stand that hard on the rear brake at 100 mph multiple times in a row. You really need to bear down on the foot lever. I was worried I was going to break the lever casting. If it made the problem worse you didn't do it hard enough to get through the old glaze.

[dmrst]

Originally Posted by Mike

Yeah, the technique is not for the faint of heart, not everyone likes to stand that hard on the rear brake at 100 mph multiple times in a row. You really need to bear down on the foot lever. I was worried I was going to break the lever casting. If it made the problem worse you didn't do it hard enough to get through the old glaze.

Trust me it was near enough to locking that it occassionally did. No ABS on my bike