Oil Spraying from Clutch Plates

[ducstr]

I just replaced my clutch springs, plan was just to take 5 off replace others and then replace the sixth, but instaed I started to loosen the sixth, and the clutch plate moved out about 1/4", thought oops, and I tightened it back up, and continued on,

Issue is, now I have a Black/geyish oil on my plates and its flinging out of my open cover, and the clutch is groaning, grabbing when starting off,

Is it possibble that I messed up the seals with that little movement?

I am thinking hub seal? Push Rod Seals?

Anybody run into this before?

[TOP_DUC]

You should always replace them in diagonal patterns if you don't intend to pull the pressure plate off and clean/inspect the plates/hub/basket. 3, then 3. Anyway, it sounds like you buggered up the push rod seal(s). You may have bent the pushrod when the plate cocked, but maybe not. Just pull the pressure plate off, pull out the pushrod and change out the o-rings.

[ducstr]

Clutch still works good, just the oil problem, thanks, hopefully just an oil ring problem,

[tonered]

Yes, the oil seal can be damaged by the push rod when you pull it out. There's no real way to prevent it other than tapping out the push rod from the pressure plate before you completely remove it.

When you replace the oil seal, note that it is not symmetrical. The inner seal rib is offset. The oil ring goes with the shorter side wall toward the engine. If you put it in backwards, you'll still get oil sputtering over your plates.

Have a good one.

[C-simian]

Tonerd's right in looking at that seal first — it's probably the culprit, and you do need to be careful with the installation.

LT Snyder has a complete pushrod o-ring and seal kit, which comes with directions that actually describe what they're supposed to describe (unlike so many parts instructions I've received): Desmo Times Product 91- Clutch Pushrod Seal

$8.99. He has a minimum charge of $35, so get some other item and you'll have your seals at your door in no time. Excellent service.

Ron

[ducstr]

Where does the bigger black Seal go (desmo times package), I was at the Dealship today and all they gave me for seals were the two small black ones, and a slightly larger green seal that goes on just before the bearing?

[tonered]

ducstr,

Have you downloaded the Parts List for free from ducati.com? If it gave torque values, it would be more useful than the Service Manual. Seeing exploded views helps visualizing the assemblies. Not to mention having all the part numbers on hand to order or to cross reference the many parts that are on other Ducs.

So, here's how it goes:

Remove and replace the two o-rings on your push rod. A pick or small screwdriver will help you remove them. Lube the new ones with some motor oil. Slide them over the push rod. Let the first one seat in the first groove. Don't try to use a pick to slide it to the second groove as you will damage it. The second o-ring will easily slide over the first one when it is in place.

Use the same pick or small screwdriver to gently pry out the old oil seal. It sits inside the clutch hub, on the right side of the motor. LT recommends lubing the needle bearing just beyond the hub seal while you're there.

The hub seal that you got should be a steel reinforced piece. It is shown in Drawing 003 of the Parts List (part number 93040491A). It is NOT the o-ring shown on Drawing 004 (part number 040017030). That o-ring goes inside the odd looking bushing that sits between the throw out bearing and push rod. Yup, there's an o-ring in there holding the push rod and bushing together.

Look carefully at the inside of hub seal. The inner lip is offset toward one side. The short side goes toward the motor (inside). Find a 1/4in drive socket that fits the outer diameter of the seal ring and tap it in, gently. Many soft strikes are better than a hard one.

Re-lube the push rod and slip it back in, or install it from the left side after removing the slave. You'll have to remove the bushing for it to go in from the left side.

That should be it for 20,000mi or so.

Oh yeah. Take it very easy with the PP bolts. I found my set to gorilla torque by the dumbasses at the shop before I bought my ST. It is only 6ft-lbs. They do not need any thread lock either.

Have a good one.

[ducstr]

Thanks, that helps alot, I took out the seal(9304491A) it was still intact but is just a little loose on the push rod? I guess this doesnt have to be worn much before it leaks?

also on the other seal between the bearing and the push rod, does it just slide up to the part that holds the bearing? I have allready put the new bearing on that part< do I need to take it apart and the oil seal goes in there? Its hard to get them apart, don't want to abuse the bearing to much just to take a look,

[tonered]

Originally Posted by ducstr

Thanks, that helps alot, I took out the seal(9304491A) it was still intact but is just a little loose on the push rod? I guess this doesnt have to be worn much before it leaks?

also on the other seal between the bearing and the push rod, does it just slide up to the part that holds the bearing? I have allready put the new bearing on that part< do I need to take it apart and the oil seal goes in there? Its hard to get them apart, don't want to abuse the bearing to much just to take a look,

That sound correct. It doesn't take much for it to leak.

I'm not 100% sure about your second paragraph. The o-ring (040017030) between the bushing and the push rod is not an oil seal. It just allows the bushing to move around a bit to take stress off the push rod. This o-ring goes inside the bushing. The Duc Parts List does not illustrate this very well.

There is nothing between the pressure plate and the O.D. of the throwout bearing. And, there is nothing between the I.D. of the throwout bearing and the push rod bushing.

Have a good one.

[brian91cfr]

The O-ring fits inside the lifter pin ?

brian.