A Few Questions on ST3

[Socaldiablo]

I'm in the process of upgrading my 06' ST3 with several much needed things and a few nice to haves. One OEM part that I want to order is that little clamp that secures the LH front brake line that runs from the left caliper across the top of the fender and up under the dash. When I bought the bike, the PO had taped a rubber grommet type of piece to the fender that did a real shitty job of holding the brake line in place ...he taped it with black electrical tape. It was an ugly and useless set-up so I ripped it off, figuring I could order a new clamp. When I searched the Ducati Omaha and Commonwealth Cycles OEM parts catalog, I cannot find that part. Anyone know if there is an actual OEM part that goes there or is it one of those fend for yourself deals? I could probably go to Ace Hardware and find something that would work OK. Without something holding that brake line down on the fender, I can hear it slapping the fender when I hit a bump.

Also, I want to update the bike with some added lighting. I was thinking of a driving light kit mounted underneath the headlamps (i.e. clamped to the forks or somehow mounted on the fairing under the headlamps) and installing a toggle switch on the dash panel to turn it on/off. I am also mesmerized by those neat blue LEDs on the back of the CHP bikes and so I found some blue LED pods that I can mount on the back of the panniers that would look pretty cool (I think) and again, install a toggle switch on the dash panel to turn them on/off. My question is are there available elctrical connections for either or both of these that I can tap into? I know there is that one under the top dash panel but will I need to upgrade the fuse if the wattage of the lights is higher than what the fuse is rated for? I also saw 2 electrical connections underneath that tray (where the tool kit is) that is under the seat (both capped off). Are these extras or what?

Thanks!
Steve

[Maverick]

Originally Posted by Socaldiablo

I was thinking of a driving light kit mounted underneath the headlamps (i.e. clamped to the forks or somehow mounted on the fairing under the headlamps)

I looked into a mounting point for my camera in that place, and I didn't find a suitable spot under the headlamps or on the frame because the front wheel would crush it under strong braking. If your driving light is quite flat, like a bar of LEDs, it might just fit. Don't put them in the cooling inlets for the regulator (the openings right under the headlamps).

My question is are there available elctrical connections for either or both of these that I can tap into? I know there is that one under the top dash panel but will I need to upgrade the fuse if the wattage of the lights is higher than what the fuse is rated for?

The spare connector under the dash is originally meant for heated grips and is switched with Key-On and fused with 5 Amps. That means you can theoretically add up to 60W. If you need more, you will need to upgrade the fuse and potentially also the wiring. I don't know how this voltage is switched (anyone?), but if a relay is involved, it should also be checked for your desired amperage.

I also saw 2 electrical connections underneath that tray (where the tool kit is) that is under the seat (both capped off). Are these extras or what?

These connectors are used for the connection of a diagnostic system. The three-pin connector is a serial interface that you shouldn't use for anything else but diagnostics. The two-pin connector is a 12V power-supply. It is directly wired to the power socket for electrical accessories or battery charging at the left side of the bike. This means it is always on, also upon Key-Off. Both power supplies are fused with 20 Amps, but I doubt that the wiring to the two-pin power supply under the seat was designed with that in mind. Diagnostic systems use much less than that. I use this connector to power my GPS and that's fine.

The connectors (for both power supplies mentioned above) are called Amp-Superseal. Good luck.

Cheers,
Mark

[Stick]

On my ST2, I successfully mounted a pair of 55W (each) "Pilot" brand driving lamps to the piece of aluminum that's bolted to the lower tripple tree (just above the radiator). The lenses were shaped like a "D" (rotated 90 deg. to the right). Overall mounting height was 1 5/8". They never touched the front fender thru it's suspension travel. I called them my Stealth driving lights. Wired them up thru a relay, and the command switch was SPDT- center-off type. off in middle, on with hi-beam, or on all the time (but only when key was on).

NOTE: I would not recommend using blue. Stay with conventional and legal colors, unless you enjoy blue uninforms. White or amber up front. Red for the rear. (think about DRL's on cars, and/or running(parking) lights on vehicles.

[tonered]

The brake line holder on my 2001 is just a piece of molded rubber that was pop riveted to the fender. So, if you find a stiff piece of hose, you could cut it and rivet it in place.

Have a good one.

[Socaldiablo]

Originally Posted by Maverick

I looked into a mounting point for my camera in that place, and I didn't find a suitable spot under the headlamps or on the frame because the front wheel would crush it under strong braking. If your driving light is quite flat, like a bar of LEDs, it might just fit. Don't put them in the cooling inlets for the regulator (the openings right under the headlamps).



The spare connector under the dash is originally meant for heated grips and is switched with Key-On and fused with 5 Amps. That means you can theoretically add up to 60W. If you need more, you will need to upgrade the fuse and potentially also the wiring. I don't know how this voltage is switched (anyone?), but if a relay is involved, it should also be checked for your desired amperage.



These connectors are used for the connection of a diagnostic system. The three-pin connector is a serial interface that you shouldn't use for anything else but diagnostics. The two-pin connector is a 12V power-supply. It is directly wired to the power socket for electrical accessories or battery charging at the left side of the bike. This means it is always on, also upon Key-Off. Both power supplies are fused with 20 Amps, but I doubt that the wiring to the two-pin power supply under the seat was designed with that in mind. Diagnostic systems use much less than that. I use this connector to power my GPS and that's fine.

The connectors (for both power supplies mentioned above) are called Amp-Superseal. Good luck.

Cheers,
Mark

Mark ...yeah, I didn't see a spot that was just perfect for the lights. Thanks for your experience. The lights I was looking at were not the LED bar type but more of the 2 orbital style.

And yes, I think someone had mentioned before that the spare connector under the dash was for heated grips. I have heated grips (installed from the PO) but they don't use that connector. Not sure how they're connected to the electrical system and you know, now that I think of it, I'm not sure they are even hooked up! I never use them here in LA and the last few times I removed the lower dash panel (where the on/off switch for them is mounted), I know I didn't have to unhook the wiring for that switch. I need to check that out next time I remove the dash! Thanks for the info on the 2 connectors under the tray beneath the seat. I won't touch those then.


Stick,
Thanks for the photo of your set-up. I like the look but are they functional? From the photo, they appear to be so tucked up under the nose that the light might be hindered a bit. How did you wire them up? I assume you went through the fuse box but is there a spare fuse avail.? And where did you place the command switch? Is there a specific type of wiring you need for this (i.e. weather-proof) or use just what came with the lights? Lastly, I hear you on seeing red and blue behind me if running blue LED pods on the rear. I was wondering about that. Are the blues illegal? Obviously, I wouldn't have ones that flash. I had planned to check the DOT info on color of lights legal for vehicles before I purchased. Initially, I assumed they would be OK since companies sell these for bikes/cars but they may be more for highlighting certain parts of the vehicle (like you engine or something). I'll check it out, though.

Tony,
Thanks for the idea. I'll check my ST3's set-up to see if I have that molded rubber piece and possibly use that as a mounting spot. One photo of an ST with the light kit I was looking at had them mounted real low, almost down by where the front wheel mounts. That looked a little low to me but it could also be an option.

Steve

[Stick]

Actually, they were very functional for throwing light way out in front of the bike. It was very easy to mount to that plate, since the plate comes off w/ 2 bolts. This made it easy to do the work on the drill press. And they were mounted way rearward to avoid any contact w/ the front fender.

I used most of the heavy wiring that came in the kit. Made a special bracket for the switch between the LH fairing and the gas tank. Came out pretty neat, and I hate to drill holes in factory panels if I can avoid it! My switch for heated grips also went down there.

Since they were mounted to that plate, they also "pan" L&R as you turn the forks. So you have to consider the wires moving a bit also...

I believe I ran a separate fused wire to the + on the battery. Remember, 55W bulbs draw approx. 5A apiece, so the wires/relay/ckt. needed to be rated at about 15A. The signal wires for the relay (thru the small switch) were chosen so that the relay would only be on if the key was in the RUN position.

[kaysystems]

Originally Posted by tonered

The brake line holder on my 2001 is just a piece of molded rubber that was pop riveted to the fender. So, if you find a stiff piece of hose, you could cut it and rivet it in place.

Have a good one.

My clip was missing when I bought the bike. Just received a new clip, two washers & rivet from the dealer. 2 minutes later it's on & holding the brake hose nicely

David

[Socaldiablo]

Originally Posted by tonered

The brake line holder on my 2001 is just a piece of molded rubber that was pop riveted to the fender. So, if you find a stiff piece of hose, you could cut it and rivet it in place.

Have a good one.

Tony ...I think I misread your reply. Sorry! You were referring to the first problem I wrote about and I thought you were referring to the light kit set-up. My bad. You're right ...there is no where to attach the rubber piece so riveting it is the answer.

David,
Are there part nos. for the parts you bought from the dealer? If not, I may find some rubber hose like Tony mentioned. The closest dealer to me is a joke ...arrogant assholes. I won't go there again.

[kaysystems]

Originally Posted by Socaldiablo

David,
Are there part nos. for the parts you bought from the dealer? If not, I may find some rubber hose like Tony mentioned. The closest dealer to me is a joke ...arrogant assholes. I won't go there again.

See the attached pages from the parts book.

You need items 21, 22, 23
I order from Pro-Italia. Always found them helpfull

David

[Socaldiablo]

Originally Posted by kaysystems

See the attached pages from the parts book.

You need items 21, 22, 23
I order from Pro-Italia. Always found them helpfull

David

Ahh, you are the man! Thank you for this. I will order these today.
Thanks again!