About to jump on a 06 st3..advice?

[Journer]

I've been searching around and I think I'm familiar with some of the usual issues (dashboard goes out, fuel lines pop off, sputters <3000rpm). Just have a few questions and asking for general advice... this would be my first Duc

The bike:
06 st3 w/ 12,000kms, very clean; all stock except for alarm. asking 500000 jpy (~6500 usd, but I live in japan so I'm not slammed by crap exchange rates).

1) There is a power plug under the seat next to the center-stand handle; is this factory? Seems like I've seen it in other pics...
2) It has an ignition disabling alarm system (w/ remote fob). Anyone know of this as a Ducati option? It looks like a very professional install and works perfectly; but I have to ask, why? The key is already chipped, why the extra alarm?

Things I'm worried about:
1) slight rust around the filler area of the tank (I suppose this is normal for japan)... maybe i could check the fuel filter for bits, but where?
2) some rusty bolts (read something about cracking?)
3) aftermarket alarm...could lead to electrical problems?
4) shift lever seems really short; I can barely get my foot under it, maybe just needs adjusting?
5) fog in the oil view port; open crankcase?
6) white smoke from tailpipe (but no oil smell); it was <32 deg outside... maybe it was just cold; I think it went away after a bit anyways
7) top cover on the front brake handle had some corrosion and was a bit pitted / whited; is this normal?

Anyways, taking it for a spin next week to see if I really want to jump on it.

Any general tips for things to look out for? I'm thinking of taking it down to the Ducati dealer before making the sale final and having it checked out, but its going to run me ~$200

Thanks in advance

[Bill_Anderson]

The power plug is OEM, the fob-controled ignition disabling alarm system is not. The fog in the oil view port is caused by the oil being cold. It will go away once the bike is ridden and the oil heats up.

I live in the Seattle area (known for its moisture) about two miles (as the crows fly) from Puget Sound. There is no rust on my 06-ST3s, possibly because I keep it in my garage.

[waco748]

The power plug is OEM and Powerlet or the BMW male plug mate to it for your gloves/vest/charger; it's not switched and mine is fused.

1) slight rust around the filler area of the tank (I suppose this is normal for japan)... maybe i could check the fuel filter for bits, but where?
I found surface rust (red color on a white rag) on my 748 but was not flaking. I'd call that normal; remove the surface rust and cover it with something to keep oxygen away from it. Not all paint is fuel proof; you might consider silicon grease to provide an oxygen barrier.

2) some rusty bolts (read something about cracking?)
Engine mount bolts are mentioned on the forum as prone to cracking; surface corrosion cleans up and should not be a problem. Remove surface corrosion with a non-metallic wheel (Dremel) and paint.

3) aftermarket alarm...could lead to electrical problems?
Depending on the current draw, you might want to get a battery tender but, if wired properly, should not cause problems.

4) shift lever seems really short; I can barely get my foot under it, maybe just needs adjusting?
Mine seems "short" but it can be adjusted using the rod or remove from the gear box and reposition it.

5) fog in the oil view port; open crankcase?
As the previous poster said, ride it (I found the same after my oil change; a good 4-hr ride removed the milky look)

6) white smoke from tailpipe (but no oil smell); it was <32 deg outside... maybe it was just cold; I think it went away after a bit anyways
It was cold outside and mine does the same when starting up when that cold but does dissipate after the engine/exhaust warm up.

7) top cover on the front brake handle had some corrosion and was a bit pitted / whited; is this normal?
You can remove the corrosion with a non-metallic wheel (Dremel) and repaint or replace them with anodized covers.

Ride safe,
Curt

[Journer]

thanks for the replies.

Anything in particular I should look out for when checking it out?

Thanks

[acma201]

Reading all your posts makes me think of having a ducati for my son. I know I have a family here who is ready to help with technicalities. Thank you.

[stryder]

Originally Posted by Journer

thanks for the replies.

Anything in particular I should look out for when checking it out?

Thanks

The torque on the engine mount bolts, particularly the rear bolt.

Crash history.

Service history, particularly the last time the belts were replaced.

OEM brake pads and tight rotor buttons may cause brake juddering which can be addressed with different pads and rotor button adjustments/replacements.

Rear brake is very wooden until bedded in and used regularly.

5 year old battery may need replacement soon/now.

Voltage regulator connector usually fries and needs to be addressed/upgraded as part of a PM program, (if it's on its way out, you will get a faint smell of wire burning)

If you are not familiar with the sounds of a Ducati, you may feel there's "something wrong", but it's probably "normal."

If it's not red, your overall speed will be a tad lower.

Enjoy.

[Socaldiablo]

I bought my 06' ST3 nearly a year ago and have enjoyed the bike for the most part. Not sure if the models that were shipped to Japan had this problem but for the U.S. versions, they made them run too lean. My bike continues to stall at least one time on every ride I am on. It was really bad at first ...I then installed a Fat Duc O2 Manipulator and it's better but not cured. This is really a major PITA ...I once stalled in extremely heavy traffic on LA's notorious 405 freeway right near Wilshire where it's like 6 lanes in each direction. I was sitting in-between lanes (stopped) with the clutch in and the damn thing died. It took a bit to get it re-started, which leads me to my next negative about the bike. The cables leading from the battery to the starter motor are inadequate. The bike has never started with any vigor like all my other bikes have. A better starter kit is my next upgrade. The lean issue can be resolved with a reprogrammed ECU I believe so after the starter upgrade, I will mess with the ECU and probably add some better slip ons and be done with the O2 sensor in the left pipe. I also feel that the gear box is very clunky as compared to some other bikes I've had. One time the dash neutral light illuminated so I assumed I was in neutral and when I released the clutch, the bike lunged forward and died (I was at a stop light with traffic on both sides of me so slightly embarrassing). The gear box also seems loosely assembled and makes clunky popping noises when shifting. And lastly, the fairings are a PITA to deal with ...takes a lot of effort to remove them. I'm not trying to sway you away from the bike but just wanted to give you my experience with it.

[mlukason]

Journer, my first Duc was/is an '06 ST3. I think it's a great bike...lots of character, good handling, and (in my experience) reliable.

I think Curt did a great job answering your questions. Steve pointed out some of the bikes quirkiness. In defense of the ST3's transmission, I don't find it to be clunky. My previous bikes were some older BMW's (they were clunky) so i might be biased. I found that the Duc shifts better with fresh Klotz oil. I too have gone with the Fat Duc route to richen the fuel mixture. It took away all of the surging I was experiencing below 4500 rpm.

I've found the tiny switch on the clutch lever is of dubious quality. When this goes, you can't start the engine unless you're in neutral. Not too bad, until the bike stalls and you have to race to find neutral! But that's a small nit to pick.

Overall, I have no regrets buying my ST3! I'd do it again.

[ST3S]

This is the first time I've had another person agree with me about the ST3 having a clunky gearbox. I wonder if this is isolated to only some of the bikes. Mine is an '06 also.

[stryder]

^ You haven't found the right oil. Is the ST3 gear box slick? No. Is it clunky? Not IMO. It can be hard to find neutral sometimes and it may hit a false neutral others if using a lazy foot, but if you think it's "clunky", try various types and grades of oils, and you may see a marked improvement in shift quality between them. Grease your shift lever pivot points too. In fact, shift quality is the basis of my oil choice on all bikes since I change it with a new filter very often, like 2500 miles, so most other oil considerations aren't as important IMO. YMMV.