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Jan 6th, 2012, 4:22 pm
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#1 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mahtomedhi, MN, USA
Posts: 68
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Noob clutch questions
I opened up the clutch and am looking at it for the first time (bought my Duc in the fall) and I have some questions. Actually, I think I already have the answers but was rather hoping someone would tell me I don't need to replace the clutch and basket. So here goes: the friction plates (if that is what they are called) have about .45mm of material left on them, and the tabs on those plates are bashed so that there is about 3mm gap between the tab and the slot in the clutch basket. Also, the basket has indentations from said plates that are about .75mm deep. Are there suppose to be grooves in the basket where the plates hit? How thick are the friction pads when new? How much tolerance is too much with regard to be bashed tabs? What do I need to replace? And with what should I replace it? Feel free to correct my vocabulary if I'm referring to these bits by the wrong name. This is the first time I've ever been nose to nose with a clutch.
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98 ST2 - STILL stumbles like a drunkard
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Jan 6th, 2012, 5:49 pm
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jericho Center, VT, USA
Posts: 322
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Sounds like you're where I am. If the tabs are bashed that much, you probably need to replace them - mine were worse; after 27k miles there was at least 5 mm. If the basket is that grooved, it's also a pretty strong candidate for replacement. You also want to check the hub and see how grooved it is. You might check the classifieds, or put up a WTB there. I found a used clutch assy from a later 1098 (aluminum basket and friction plates instead of the older steel - basket, hub and all plates) with 2000 miles on it for $250 - and I think there was another newer one up for sale recently.
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Peter Tourin in Jericho Center, VT
'98 ST2, '75 Norton Mk III
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Jan 6th, 2012, 7:25 pm
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Fremont & Georgetown, California, USA
Posts: 734
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2 cents....
Some may disagree with me, but when a Ducati dry clutch reaches 27k+ miles most likely the entire clutch assembly should be retired, if the owner wants it to work like new....
Inner hub/outer basket/frictons/metals/springs in Ducati Superbike world it would be retired by that time, or should be.
I have found in all my Ducati's that when the hub and basket get grooved/dented deeply up from the plates it makes for poor engagement/disegagement of the unit.
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2002 Ducati ST4S (Yellow, the faster color)
2008 Aprilia RXV550 (My current monster for the dirt)
2006 Ducati 999s (Sold)
2001 Ducati 996 SPS (Crashed)
2001 Ducati 748-890 (Sold)
1997 Ducati 748 (Sold)
1993 Ducati 888SPO (Crashed)
Too much Jap crap to mention!
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Jan 7th, 2012, 3:25 am
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#4 (permalink)
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Life is too short to worry !
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Peterhead, Aberdeenshire, Scotland
Posts: 1,620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbevans
Some may disagree with me, but when a Ducati dry clutch reaches 27k+ miles most likely the entire clutch assembly should be retired, if the owner wants it to work like new....
Inner hub/outer basket/frictons/metals/springs in Ducati Superbike world it would be retired by that time, or should be.
I have found in all my Ducati's that when the hub and basket get grooved/dented deeply up from the plates it makes for poor engagement/disegagement of the unit.
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Personally I dont consider the inner hub should be badly worn at 27,000 Mls unless it is being abused in some way and any wear at all (necessitaing replacement) at this milage is also a sign of riding the clutch too much (Appropriate gearing would help in this respect).
Basket and plates are often showing signs at this stage (as in this case) but again springs should be fine (remember some people actually remove springs to lower clutch leverage so a full set should cope fine)
I'm sure quite a few others will respond quoting milages of upto 50,000Mls and some more , before encountering a problem.
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05 ST4s - With Racetech Goldvalves , Rebuilt rear Ohlins , Tapered headrace bearings , Galfer Front Discs & Pads , Dynabeads , Open airbox with K&N filter , Iridium NGK's with Magnecor Leads , 15/42T Cogs , Helibars with Oxford heated grips , HID dip beam , Twin-Tone Fiamm Horns plus a bunch of 'detailing' modifications.
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Jan 7th, 2012, 7:07 am
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jericho Center, VT, USA
Posts: 322
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Yeah, there are other clutch threads with big discussions of mileage - one member says he got 40k out of his stock clutch. At 27k my plates were way gone, the basket was way gone and the hub was also not much to write home about. The original owner had the bike about 25k, then sold it to someone who rode it a bit and sold it to me - original owner maintained the bike well but told me he rode it hard. I don't know him so I don't know anything about his riding style, but it looks like that clutch could have wanted a rebuild way before now.
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Peter Tourin in Jericho Center, VT
'98 ST2, '75 Norton Mk III
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Jan 7th, 2012, 12:37 pm
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#6 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mahtomedhi, MN, USA
Posts: 68
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My bike has 16k miles. The history is completely unknown. The local dealer had indicated that the 12k mile service was done but it likely wasn't based on how out of spec the valves were. The clutch engages pretty roughly but its my first dry clutch so I am still trying to figure out what "normal" behavior looks like for a dry clutch.
__________________
98 ST2 - STILL stumbles like a drunkard
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