Quiet clutch mod question - Ducati.ms

kaysystems · Jan 5th, 2012, 6:35 pm

Changing the clutch places. The original ones are quite worn.

I bought a used set (3000 miles) but they were from a Superbike. Looks like they have an extra plate compared with the ST3.

My question..... does it matter if I use one of my very worn plates, or the spare new one as my quietening plate? They both seem to fit, and I assume the extra plate will bed in a little.

thanks

David

Derek · Jan 6th, 2012, 6:34 am

An old plate will do fine as the quietening one, although I think steel one is preferred rather than alloy.

tonered · Jan 6th, 2012, 10:28 am

I used an alloy one with my old steel basket for several thousand miles. It worked great. It did eventually wear and not make contact.

I'm very much miss the QC with the new Procutting basket. I think I am going to try again.

Have a good one.

kaysystems · Jan 6th, 2012, 11:24 am

Thanks guys. Can't wait for Spring and the sound of silence.

I also have to replace the seal on the needle roller inside the shaft, for the pushrod. It just isn't there

Favid

ptourin · Jan 7th, 2012, 7:18 am

What's the story with using alloy plates? Tony, what do you mean about "wear and not make contact"? It sounds like you mean they got thinner with wear until they didn't put any load on the stock plates anymore - but I'd think any plate would do that. Or did you mean the tabs wore until the bottom plate became lose side to side?

My local shop gave me 2 aluminum plates in very good condition, almost no wear - but I've got all winter to get this done so I'm trying to understand what the issues are with the extra bottom plate or plates.

kaysystems · Jan 7th, 2012, 7:50 am

I'm going to use aluminum because that's all I have.
My only issue is the new clutch pack height. Some people take out one of the first two metal plates, but I may use thinner superbike ones.

David

tonered · Jan 7th, 2012, 5:43 pm

My pack itself was wearing thin and I was getting a bit more slippage when engaging the clutch. So over that period, the QC wasn't working perfectly. I put in a spare friction plate and it became fully effective again. I don't believe the alloy QC friction plate wore at all. That said, it didn't work with the Procutting basket. The radii are deeper, I believe.

I would not adjust the pack beyond the Duc stack height requirements. You want to leave room for wear and engagement of the PP. With the QC working well and not hard to find nuetral, the last plate was right near the edge of the basket, the old steel one.

Have a good one.

ptourin · Jan 8th, 2012, 11:28 am

I'm reassembling my clutch, and I've got some questions about the QC that I hope someone can answer. I'm looking at Nick Woods' article, and he says to drop in 1 or 2 old steel friction plates, then the first metal plate. Here's what he says:

"For the quietening mod to work, that steel plate has to contact the face of the previous friction plate before it hits the bottoms of the splines/slots on the centre. The amount by which the friction face protrudes needs only to be around 0.020”/0.5mm, and more will not be better. "

I'm putting in an aluminum basket from a 1098, with about 2000 mi. on it, and I can't come close to what Nick is describing. I'm using one of my old plates that's really been hammered hard, so the tabs are worn down. I've cleaned them up, and they're now about .330" wide (stock is about .475" wide, so they've got a lot of wear on them), and I've filed a radius in the sides where the tabs hit the radiussed ends of the basket slots.

I'm measuring from the outer edge of the hub in to the surface of the first metal plate - first measuring with no extra friction plate and the metal plate seated in the bottom of the hub splines, and then with the extra friction plate so that the metal plate doesn't quite go all the way down to the end of the splines. Now I'm getting a bit less than .020" - maybe .010-.014". Is this what you've seen when you've done the mod? The description says to just drop a plate in, but it's been a lot of filing to get to this point - when I started I was up around .040" or more.

Also the fancy-dan washer under the 32 mm hub nut seems not to be flat - does the concave side go out or in, and does it make any difference at all? I can't see that it would, but might as well ask now...

tonered · Jan 9th, 2012, 10:19 am

I'm a bit confused (that is easy to do

), but the QC friction plate doesn't have to seat perfectly into the basket. I used a square cornered plate and it worked great. You should have the hub in place and torqued when setting up the QC mod.

You just need a bit of overlap against the first drive plate. You can feel this if you press on that first drive plate with your fingers. The QC plate should be roughly 0.5mm less deep than the bottom of the hub splines.

Have a good one.

ptourin · Jan 9th, 2012, 12:13 pm

Thanks Tony - I wanted to make sure I understood it correctly, and I did. With that basket, the first QC plate was WAAAYYY to high until I filed the tabs narrower so they'd drop further down into the radiused part of the basket slots. Don't know why, but it doesn't matter as long as it works in the end <g>....